TheWeldingFords Posted July 1, 2023 Author Share Posted July 1, 2023 Okay I replaced the egr sensor and it got rid of that code, but now when floored it bogs down like it's getting way too much air but it did fix the jumping idle I believe, it did have a bit of lack of power could barely use second to move. Relays look like they are the same specs between the Ford and the Bosch style. Just left with code 95 because the 67 one is unimportant. How crucial is the engine to firewall ground? Well I just pulled out the ground strap and it may have been the problem just looking at it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 Well I just pulled out the ground strap and it may have been the problem just looking at it The engine/firewall ground strap is crucial. In Bullnose trucks it is the only way the cab gets grounded. In later years Ford added several more grounds because of all the problems when that ground failed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81-F150-Explorer Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 The engine/firewall ground strap is crucial. In Bullnose trucks it is the only way the cab gets grounded. In later years Ford added several more grounds because of all the problems when that ground failed. Ditto! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWeldingFords Posted July 1, 2023 Author Share Posted July 1, 2023 The engine/firewall ground strap is crucial. In Bullnose trucks it is the only way the cab gets grounded. In later years Ford added several more grounds because of all the problems when that ground failed. Ditto! well I made a new ground cable with some 2 gauge, still throwing code 95. I'm gonna try a different fuel pressure gauge tomorrow because so far its sounding like it might be a fuel issue because of the stumbling over itself when going over 2500-3000 and it lacks a bit of power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 well I made a new ground cable with some 2 gauge, still throwing code 95. I'm gonna try a different fuel pressure gauge tomorrow because so far its sounding like it might be a fuel issue because of the stumbling over itself when going over 2500-3000 and it lacks a bit of power. If you made a new ground cable, how is the pigtailed ECM (injector) ground that comes from the battery ground terminal to the radiator support where it connects to the computer's harness? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmericanSavage Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 Well I just pulled out the ground strap and it may have been the problem just looking at it I had some electrical pulsating problems a long while ago. The ground strap looked "OK” but I replaced it anyway—cured ALL my problems. Crucial piece! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWeldingFords Posted July 1, 2023 Author Share Posted July 1, 2023 If you made a new ground cable, how is the pigtailed ECM (injector) ground that comes from the battery ground terminal to the radiator support where it connects to the computer's harness? I'm not seeing a harness that connects from ground to the radiator support, I only see the ground from the battery connect to block and then the block to the firewall. I rented a different fuel gauge and the highest pressure it would read was 30 psi because it kept leaking at the adapter and that was with the pump constantly running Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81-F150-Explorer Posted July 1, 2023 Share Posted July 1, 2023 I had some electrical pulsating problems a long while ago. The ground strap looked "OK” but I replaced it anyway—cured ALL my problems. Crucial piece! I'm leaning toward more wiring faults somewhere, and/or weak windings or grounds to the fuel pump or pumps. First I'd check the wiring going to the EEC from the fuel pump cutoff relay. Wires ZZ and YY in Gary's schematic. There should also be a connection through the fuel pump cutoff relay between wires ZZ, YY and the inertia switch wire 787 pink/black, or 37 Yellow wire when the cutoff relay is closed. Make sure these wires are working correctly, or fix the problems, and work forward from there if needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWeldingFords Posted July 1, 2023 Author Share Posted July 1, 2023 If you made a new ground cable, how is the pigtailed ECM (injector) ground that comes from the battery ground terminal to the radiator support where it connects to the computer's harness? I'm not seeing a harness that connects from ground to the radiator support, I only see the ground from the battery connect to block and then the block to the firewall. I rented a different fuel gauge and the highest pressure it would read was 30 psi because it kept leaking at the adapter and that was with the pump constantly running Also I forgot to mention that when I first started it up cold it ran great no weird idle and plenty of power throughout the rpm range no bucking but then a minute later when it made it out of the cold temp into the beginning of normal temp it started it again. The distributor is a bit hot but the coil is only a tad above room temp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheWeldingFords Posted July 1, 2023 Author Share Posted July 1, 2023 Also I forgot to mention that when I first started it up cold it ran great no weird idle and plenty of power throughout the rpm range no bucking but then a minute later when it made it out of the cold temp into the beginning of normal temp it started it again. The distributor is a bit hot but the coil is only a tad above room temp I checked for codes again KOEO --------------------- 67: not a problem, jumped the NSS 95: Fuel pump circuit open, PCM to motor Continuous memory ------------------------------------------ 29: no Input from vehicle speed sensor 33: EGR valve not opening, insufficient flow detected 95: same thing as KOEO code Based off this from my last drive because I cleared codes before I did it, once engine gets to beginning of normal temps it begins having problems, so something is getting warm and messing something else up Where should I check next for getting rid of code 95, how would I test it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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