Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT

[ArdWrknTrk]

Yes, as far as I know, the older hoses and especially the carborateur gaskets are not alcohol resistant.

I my case, I have changed all hoses to ones made of TPU. All the other gaskets, like the O-Rings should be made of EPDM-grade rubber, what also should be fine with E85.

Regarding the economical factor, I think it also should be much better in my case. 95 octane gas is here in France and also in Germany between 1.72 to 1.89 Euro per liter. E85 is about 0.70 to 0.85 Euro per liter. I've read, that you'll need about the 1.5 about of E95. But if you look at the prices, also if I need the double about, I will come cheaper with it.

Maybe there'e a way to adapt the EEC-V profile to E85, with the help of Gary and Bill, when I change the ECU. Maybe other injectors will be useful? As carrying my laptop always into holidays, It may possible to change the profile from E95 to E85 and back, when needed.

As I also plan to install a secondary gas-tank for my auxiliary heater, connected with electric valves to the normal gas-cycle, I can run the heater with E85 and if planing to drive with it, I can switch to the secondary gas tank when running the primary tank empty, then switching the profile on the ECU, to switch to drive with E85. The same backwards, when needed to run with normal E95 gas. But maybe, we will also get E85 in Germany and it won't be needed to switch very often.

For the next steps, I'll focus on the restore of my E4OD and planning the replacement of the ECU and the rest of the wiring harness.

I'm also in negotiations with summit about two steering shafts for my Bronco and my CJ7. When back home, I'll check, if the play in the steering of my CJ7 is caused by the shaft, same for the Bronco. There's not very much play in the steering of my Bronco, but I assume, it comes from the steering coupler element. The Bronco has the same, as my CJ7 in the factory shaft.

So the priorities are like that:

- Rework the E4OD

- Planning the new wiring and installation of the EEC-V

- Searching for 90th GT4 heads and the corresponding HIGH-RAM-Intake for them.

- Installing the auxiliary heater and the secondary fuel-tank.

- Install my 360° camera system.

Carburetors are a long solved problem.

Newer gaskets are Teflon coated, O-rings and diaphragms are epdm too.

One big problem the drag racers had was methanol eating the zinc out of brass jets and zamak bodies, but Holley and Weber/Edelbrock sell aluminium body carbs and you can get stainless steel jets easy enough.

As with any of these modifications because of the cost of fuel we tend to hit efficiency limits long before any payoff.

I see this when people want to swap an overdrive gearbox, aluminium heads so they can run lower octane fuel, whatever.

Not many can simply accept that they are driving a heavy, un-aerodynamic beast with 65 year old engine technology.

You can put lipstick on a pig.

You can even have cosmetic surgery done.

Nothing you do is going to change that it's a pig.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, as far as I know, the older hoses and especially the carborateur gaskets are not alcohol resistant.

I my case, I have changed all hoses to ones made of TPU. All the other gaskets, like the O-Rings should be made of EPDM-grade rubber, what also should be fine with E85.

Regarding the economical factor, I think it also should be much better in my case. 95 octane gas is here in France and also in Germany between 1.72 to 1.89 Euro per liter. E85 is about 0.70 to 0.85 Euro per liter. I've read, that you'll need about the 1.5 about of E95. But if you look at the prices, also if I need the double about, I will come cheaper with it.

Maybe there'e a way to adapt the EEC-V profile to E85, with the help of Gary and Bill, when I change the ECU. Maybe other injectors will be useful? As carrying my laptop always into holidays, It may possible to change the profile from E95 to E85 and back, when needed.

As I also plan to install a secondary gas-tank for my auxiliary heater, connected with electric valves to the normal gas-cycle, I can run the heater with E85 and if planing to drive with it, I can switch to the secondary gas tank when running the primary tank empty, then switching the profile on the ECU, to switch to drive with E85. The same backwards, when needed to run with normal E95 gas. But maybe, we will also get E85 in Germany and it won't be needed to switch very often.

For the next steps, I'll focus on the restore of my E4OD and planning the replacement of the ECU and the rest of the wiring harness.

I'm also in negotiations with summit about two steering shafts for my Bronco and my CJ7. When back home, I'll check, if the play in the steering of my CJ7 is caused by the shaft, same for the Bronco. There's not very much play in the steering of my Bronco, but I assume, it comes from the steering coupler element. The Bronco has the same, as my CJ7 in the factory shaft.

So the priorities are like that:

- Rework the E4OD

- Planning the new wiring and installation of the EEC-V

- Searching for 90th GT4 heads and the corresponding HIGH-RAM-Intake for them.

- Installing the auxiliary heater and the secondary fuel-tank.

- Install my 360° camera system.

Yes, it is possible to set the type of fuel in the EEC-V ECU via Binary Editor. In the Binary Editor Help document Page 24 tells you how, as shown below.

But that isn't going to be easy to do at the gas station. You have to shut the vehicle down, connect the laptop, and write a new file into the ECU. That takes several minutes, and there is a chance you will "brick" the ECU in doing it - I did. If that happens it may or may not run depending on when it failed in the write of the new code. In my case it ran but belched black smoke all the way home and had no power.

I suspect the latter was because I'm running slightly larger injectors than stock, so the factory table of how long to hold the injector open made the mix rich. But if you are going to run E85 you'll need injectors that are at least 1.5 times the stock ones (14.64/9.75) in order to get the right AFR. So the factory table is going to be way off.

I'm not saying that you cannot run E85. But I think the idea of changing the code in the ECU each time you fill up with different fuel is going to be a pain. You won't have 100% of the new fuel, so that AFR for that tank won't be "right".

I'm with Jim - I drive a very inefficient truck that is not going to be economical to drive. But I'm not driving it for economy. I'm driving it because I like it and I'm willing to pay the extra money to do so. It has enough power, but I could have had more power and efficiency if I'd have put more money into it when I built it, but I picked a middle-of-the-road approach that will do the job and last a long time. And I'll use the money I saved in the build to pay for fuel.

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, it is possible to set the type of fuel in the EEC-V ECU via Binary Editor. In the Binary Editor Help document Page 24 tells you how, as shown below.

But that isn't going to be easy to do at the gas station. You have to shut the vehicle down, connect the laptop, and write a new file into the ECU. That takes several minutes, and there is a chance you will "brick" the ECU in doing it - I did. If that happens it may or may not run depending on when it failed in the write of the new code. In my case it ran but belched black smoke all the way home and had no power.

I suspect the latter was because I'm running slightly larger injectors than stock, so the factory table of how long to hold the injector open made the mix rich. But if you are going to run E85 you'll need injectors that are at least 1.5 times the stock ones (14.64/9.75) in order to get the right AFR. So the factory table is going to be way off.

I'm not saying that you cannot run E85. But I think the idea of changing the code in the ECU each time you fill up with different fuel is going to be a pain. You won't have 100% of the new fuel, so that AFR for that tank won't be "right".

I'm with Jim - I drive a very inefficient truck that is not going to be economical to drive. But I'm not driving it for economy. I'm driving it because I like it and I'm willing to pay the extra money to do so. It has enough power, but I could have had more power and efficiency if I'd have put more money into it when I built it, but I picked a middle-of-the-road approach that will do the job and last a long time. And I'll use the money I saved in the build to pay for fuel.

As I think about it, Binary Editor is not the only way of programming an EEC-V ECU. I looked at TunerPro after I bought Binary Editor and found that it has some options that I don't think BE has.

One option I think I saw was for the folks that wrote TunerPro to write a special set of code for you. It was expensive, like maybe $2k, but maybe I'm not remembering correctly. Anyway, I wonder if they have a way to monitor a switch connected to an unused pin on the ECU's connector to change the desired AFR?

Having written code before I can see that would be easily done. Just monitor the input and write one of two pre-set numbers into the memory location. Maybe just check it once on startup or maybe check it each time through the loop.

But you'd still have the issue of not having a tank of pure fuel. You'd always have some residual of the last tank, so there will be a blend. In a Bronco with a 32 gallon tank the best you'd have would be to have maybe 2 gallons left of the old stuff, so you'd have a 94% pure mix: (32-2)/32 = 94%.

I don't know anything about TunerPro, but maybe Bill does?

[85lebaront2]

As I think about it, Binary Editor is not the only way of programming an EEC-V ECU. I looked at TunerPro after I bought Binary Editor and found that it has some options that I don't think BE has.

One option I think I saw was for the folks that wrote TunerPro to write a special set of code for you. It was expensive, like maybe $2k, but maybe I'm not remembering correctly. Anyway, I wonder if they have a way to monitor a switch connected to an unused pin on the ECU's connector to change the desired AFR?

Having written code before I can see that would be easily done. Just monitor the input and write one of two pre-set numbers into the memory location. Maybe just check it once on startup or maybe check it each time through the loop.

But you'd still have the issue of not having a tank of pure fuel. You'd always have some residual of the last tank, so there will be a blend. In a Bronco with a 32 gallon tank the best you'd have would be to have maybe 2 gallons left of the old stuff, so you'd have a 94% pure mix: (32-2)/32 = 94%.

I don't know anything about TunerPro, but maybe Bill does?

Gary, I was waiting on you to use it and tell me how it worked, ie easier/harder than BE, capabilities etc. As for me doing anything, it will have to wait on my back surgery/recovery as either the engine change needs to happen or the heads may need to be changed (I have an extra set of F3 heads, but there are a few bad exhaust manifold bolt holes that will need something done to them).

There is a 16 year old that I may be able to enlist for the lifting/carrying of the heads.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, I was waiting on you to use it and tell me how it worked, ie easier/harder than BE, capabilities etc. As for me doing anything, it will have to wait on my back surgery/recovery as either the engine change needs to happen or the heads may need to be changed (I have an extra set of F3 heads, but there are a few bad exhaust manifold bolt holes that will need something done to them).

There is a 16 year old that I may be able to enlist for the lifting/carrying of the heads.

I'm happy with BE, Bill. Might have gone with TunerPro if I had to make the decision in a vacuum, but with you already having gone with BE that was a no-brainer.

As for your surgery, I pray that goes well. But if you are talking about changing the heads on your 460, you'd better get that 16 yo to do the heavy lifting or use a shop crane. Those things are HEAVY!

If you have F3's then I'd send them out to be refurb'd. Or drill & Helicoil them yourself. But if you send them out they could lap the valves and put new seals on. Or you could.

Heal up. We need to talk about this stuff I've got sitting here for you. But not on Rene's thread.

[ReneH]

I'm happy with BE, Bill. Might have gone with TunerPro if I had to make the decision in a vacuum, but with you already having gone with BE that was a no-brainer.

As for your surgery, I pray that goes well. But if you are talking about changing the heads on your 460, you'd better get that 16 yo to do the heavy lifting or use a shop crane. Those things are HEAVY!

If you have F3's then I'd send them out to be refurb'd. Or drill & Helicoil them yourself. But if you send them out they could lap the valves and put new seals on. Or you could.

Heal up. We need to talk about this stuff I've got sitting here for you. But not on Rene's thread.

Hi together,

it has taken a while for me to answer as we are still in holidays.

@Jim: I know, what I'm driving and I love it! But as here in Europe everything changing regarding the fuel-types and taxes, I only will be save, that I can drive on. And if I'm able to save money, I'm a friend of it.

@Gary and Bill

That sounds good! Maybe we'll find a way to create a good setup. I think with two tanks, this is maybe possible.

@Bill

I also wish you the best for your surgery! Let's write, when you're fit again cause of the EEC-V and the MAF, we're talked about some weeks ago.

[Gary Lewis]

Hi together,

it has taken a while for me to answer as we are still in holidays.

@Jim: I know, what I'm driving and I love it! But as here in Europe everything changing regarding the fuel-types and taxes, I only will be save, that I can drive on. And if I'm able to save money, I'm a friend of it.

@Gary and Bill

That sounds good! Maybe we'll find a way to create a good setup. I think with two tanks, this is maybe possible.

@Bill

I also wish you the best for your surgery! Let's write, when you're fit again cause of the EEC-V and the MAF, we're talked about some weeks ago.

Have a good trip! Buy a house there?

[85lebaront2]

I'm happy with BE, Bill. Might have gone with TunerPro if I had to make the decision in a vacuum, but with you already having gone with BE that was a no-brainer.

As for your surgery, I pray that goes well. But if you are talking about changing the heads on your 460, you'd better get that 16 yo to do the heavy lifting or use a shop crane. Those things are HEAVY!

If you have F3's then I'd send them out to be refurb'd. Or drill & Helicoil them yourself. But if you send them out they could lap the valves and put new seals on. Or you could.

Heal up. We need to talk about this stuff I've got sitting here for you. But not on Rene's thread.

On the F3 heads, I have (A) an old Souix valve grinder and (B) the seat refacing griners and guide inserts. Yes, shop crane or 16 year old, who actually has a job, he is working at the Food Lion in town.

He also does lawns, since my Ford YT16H had developed an electrical gremlin, It wasn't running unless I chrarged the battery (It takes a group 26 or similar). I hired him to do it and he came on the 12th and did a great job and apologised he couldn't use the rider, had to use a push mower and his string trimmer was dead at that time. I have two Husqvarna trimmers, one Mary's cousin gave me not working and said if you can fix it, keep it, if not throw it away. It ran great once I cleaned it. So I replaced the missing engine shrouds and shield for the cutting head. He went to every corner, up to the foundation. For the lawn he charged $20, said he normally gets $10 for trimming but no charge.

On Rene's thread, I have an EEC-V from a 351 van W/E4OD and an 80mm MAF that was sold to me on eBay as a 90mm condition unknown. It had a bad sensor, but I have enough MAFs I just swapped sensors (matched PNs) with a good one.

[ReneH]

Have a good trip! Buy a house there?

So, I have a little problem now, as we're still in holidays and having all our baggage in the trunk...

I'm unable to sink the tailgate window...if I have the headlights on, I see that there is current applied, when trying to move the window down, but the window doesn't move.

So it seems not to be a problem of a limiter switch...

Does anyone have a hint for me?

[Gary Lewis]

So, I have a little problem now, as we're still in holidays and having all our baggage in the trunk...

I'm unable to sink the tailgate window...if I have the headlights on, I see that there is current applied, when trying to move the window down, but the window doesn't move.

So it seems not to be a problem of a limiter switch...

Does anyone have a hint for me?

I'm guessing that it is a ground problem because in my experience things like "this happens when I do that" are grounding problems. And usually I've found that one device is using the other as a ground until you turn the 2nd one on and then it is no longer a ground.

The page below shows the ground for the rear window's motor to be G701 and in the EVTM the page after that shows G701 to be the one on the firewall basically behind the radio. I would check that ground and the one on the other side of the firewall where there is supposed to be a ground wire from the engine to the firewall near the windshield wiper motor.