ReneH Posted July 6, 2023 Author Share Posted July 6, 2023 True, I got lucky on Darth, just no accelerator pump on the Holley carb due to improper assembly of the front float bowl. Oil filter adapter loose (my 1987 Horizon definitely wouldn't rust after being towed behind Darth), both rear fenders broken (part of one was in the bed). Heater return swivel fitting brazed together, timing set at 10° ATDC by the 3 day a week part time "mechanic" at the dealer in Gordonsville VA. Rear tank fuel pump DOA, front tank - "don't fill it more than 3/4, it will leak" rusted through under the not needed heat shield (installed as a blanket recall on 460 powered trucks due to ambulance fires from exhaust heat boiling gas in the front tank), Darth's went in the trash when the "new" 1990 tank was installed as that extra 35" solves the heat issue. OK, so it seems that my truck wasn't in such a bad condition compared to what I've read above. At the weekend I'll go to set my rear-tires on a balancing machine to check if the deep sound that comes up only (hearable) when driving above 60 mph. I also have filled up my basket at RockAuto with all kind of brake- and wheelbearing components. Currently I'm no sure to order now or after the holidays. The shipping costs are very high cause of the weigt. But here in Germany I'll pay even more for the parts, cause the importers also seem to order at RockAuto and only add their profit. As I have added rotors, calipers, pads, hoses for the front. Now I'n thinking about also to add pistons, shoes and so on for the rear breakes...I think to have them won't hurt, but to need them and don't have them will be bad... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 6, 2023 Share Posted July 6, 2023 OK, so it seems that my truck wasn't in such a bad condition compared to what I've read above. At the weekend I'll go to set my rear-tires on a balancing machine to check if the deep sound that comes up only (hearable) when driving above 60 mph. I also have filled up my basket at RockAuto with all kind of brake- and wheelbearing components. Currently I'm no sure to order now or after the holidays. The shipping costs are very high cause of the weigt. But here in Germany I'll pay even more for the parts, cause the importers also seem to order at RockAuto and only add their profit. As I have added rotors, calipers, pads, hoses for the front. Now I'n thinking about also to add pistons, shoes and so on for the rear breakes...I think to have them won't hurt, but to need them and don't have them will be bad... Buy complete wheel cylinders for the rear brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 6, 2023 Author Share Posted July 6, 2023 Buy complete wheel cylinders for the rear brakes. Yes...that's what I've meant...it was only a failure in my translation... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 7, 2023 Author Share Posted July 7, 2023 Yes...that's what I've meant...it was only a failure in my translation... So, another question...I still have a very uncomfortable oil-dipstick position. I've found this one: eBay Will this one fit? I only mean this about the oil Level...mechanical I get it fit, that's not the problem... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 7, 2023 Share Posted July 7, 2023 So, another question...I still have a very uncomfortable oil-dipstick position. I've found this one: eBay Will this one fit? I only mean this about the oil Level...mechanical I get it fit, that's not the problem... If you already have a dipstick that you believe is reading correctly then changing to another one should be easy. Fill the engine so the level is at Full, change to the new dipstick, and mark on it the Full level. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 7, 2023 Author Share Posted July 7, 2023 If you already have a dipstick that you believe is reading correctly then changing to another one should be easy. Fill the engine so the level is at Full, change to the new dipstick, and mark on it the Full level. Hmm...that's a good question...I think it's correct...but if I compare the length from the end of the pipe to the end of the stick, it should also be the same as my current one... Another question: what size has the dash speaker in my 86? 6x9 or 4x6 inch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 7, 2023 Share Posted July 7, 2023 Hmm...that's a good question...I think it's correct...but if I compare the length from the end of the pipe to the end of the stick, it should also be the same as my current one... Another question: what size has the dash speaker in my 86? 6x9 or 4x6 inch? Our page at Documentation/Electrical/Radios and then the Speakers tab shows the dash speaker to be 5 1/2 x 7 1/2". Don't know how easy it would be to stuff a 6 x 9" in there. Haven't tried. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 8, 2023 Author Share Posted July 8, 2023 If you already have a dipstick that you believe is reading correctly then changing to another one should be easy. Fill the engine so the level is at Full, change to the new dipstick, and mark on it the Full level. So, today I've got 500 miles finished: Tomorrow, I'll drain the oil and change the filter. I'll also add the ZDDP addive again. Up to now, everything seems to be good. I've also checked now, if the kick-down works, as I've used an aftermarket cable, I was not sure if it does. But it works very good. It takes you deep inside the backrest... Also the sound is incredible...my exhaust construction was a great success. Silent by constant driving and aggressive when accelerating. Above 3,000 rpm it sounds a bit like a dragster...I'll link a video tomorrow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 8, 2023 Share Posted July 8, 2023 So, today I've got 500 miles finished: Tomorrow, I'll drain the oil and change the filter. I'll also add the ZDDP addive again. Up to now, everything seems to be good. I've also checked now, if the kick-down works, as I've used an aftermarket cable, I was not sure if it does. But it works very good. It takes you deep inside the backrest... Also the sound is incredible...my exhaust construction was a great success. Silent by constant driving and aggressive when accelerating. Above 3,000 rpm it sounds a bit like a dragster...I'll link a video tomorrow... Well done, René! It took a lot to overcome all of those obstacles, but you did it! Congratulations!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 9, 2023 Author Share Posted July 9, 2023 Well done, René! It took a lot to overcome all of those obstacles, but you did it! Congratulations!!!!! Thanks, Gary! Yes, indeed. Now the work can begin. Before starting into holidays I've to solve some annoying sounds. Starting with new break pads at the front, squiking door panels and rattling dash cover. Tomorrow I'll be driving to a friend that will check if my tires are unbalanced...maybe that's the deep rolling noise that comes up when driving about 60 mph or faster. Next week I'll build-up my center console that also contains a dual 6.5" subwoofer and the amplifier for it and for the center dash speaker. I also will insulate the doors inside to get them a bit quieter. Same for the panels on the backside. If there enough time left, I'll take a look behind the side panels of the rear-bench and also insulate it. It seems to me that the inner door handle makes noises...this part has a unusual fixing in my opinion. It seems to be mounted without screws. Next Sunday I'll install the new blue top steering gearbox, check and change the differential fluid on both axles and put some more grease to all the u-joints and other greaseable points. Last, but not least I'll install the central door locks to my remote that already controls the tail-window. I hope, the time is enough for all this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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