ArdWrknTrk Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 I would start by doing a leak-down test to determine if you have a poor seal on the rings. ALL cylinders... Just because #8 has to eat all the blow-by doesn't mean that the other 7 cylinders aren't contributing. With that much pressure I'm surprised that you don't have leaks everywhere F&R main seals, valve covers , etc... But to come up almost 4 quarts short is something I've never seen unless there was a hole in a piston, a head gasket let loose or .... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 OK. I have bought a leak-down tester on amazon. Once assumed, that I have poor rings on #8...can I drive into holidays without pain? Should I try something I have mentioned before to seat the rings (jump-start, kick-down)? You wouldn't need to do the leak-down test before you go as you won't have time to repair the engine. If you are taking it on holiday then you need to figure out how often you need to check the oil level and take enough oil with you. Or use a brand you can easily buy on the trip. Then, when you get back, do the leak-down test and determine the path forward. But I doubt that you would be able to seat the rings now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 24 Author Share Posted July 24 You wouldn't need to do the leak-down test before you go as you won't have time to repair the engine. If you are taking it on holiday then you need to figure out how often you need to check the oil level and take enough oil with you. Or use a brand you can easily buy on the trip. Then, when you get back, do the leak-down test and determine the path forward. But I doubt that you would be able to seat the rings now. Ok, that sounds reassuring... That's what's in the can after 25 miles. About 20ml. That's my level mark, that I've set after the change: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 Ok, that sounds reassuring... That's what's in the can after 25 miles. About 20ml. That's my level mark, that I've set after the change: So 80ml per 100 miles x 30 = 1.8l I'd imagine more loss at higher rpm where the crankcase has less time to equalize to atmosphere between power events. Yet the engine held together with almost no oil. Gary offers good advice. Enjoy your vacation and keep an eye on the oil level when you fuel up Do the leakdown when you get back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 24 Author Share Posted July 24 So 80ml per 100 miles x 30 = 1.8l I'd imagine more loss at higher rpm where the crankcase has less time to equalize to atmosphere between power events. Yet the engine held together with almost no oil. Gary offers good advice. Enjoy your vacation and keep an eye on the oil level when you fuel up Do the leakdown when you get back. Oh...I've made a mistake 250 miles for 20ml...forgetting an number can cause bad misunderstandings... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 24 Share Posted July 24 Oh...I've made a mistake 250 miles for 20ml...forgetting an number can cause bad misunderstandings... Off by an order of magnitude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 24 Author Share Posted July 24 Off by an order of magnitude! Hmm...but this isn't much loss what I have...less than half a liter for 6,000 miles...so maybe...I hope for it...I have set the oil level according to my false dipstick and not according to the 6 quarts from the manual... I have found a record that I have written down after my last oil change, that I have filled in 5.5 quarts last time including the additive. Minus 0.5 quarts, that I've lost due the PCV and also the fact, that the engine was "new" and the rings haven't eaten at this time, it's possible that the loss of oil was caused by the first 1,000 miles or so and I haven't seen it caused by a wrong dipstick... After breaking-in the engine/cam, I have driven 500 miles and made the first oil-change. After another 5,600 miles, I have done the current oil-change, the one who got bled only 2.1 quarts. Let's see, what the oil level will tell after the 1,500 miles round trip to holidays and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 27 Author Share Posted July 27 You wouldn't need to do the leak-down test before you go as you won't have time to repair the engine. If you are taking it on holiday then you need to figure out how often you need to check the oil level and take enough oil with you. Or use a brand you can easily buy on the trip. Then, when you get back, do the leak-down test and determine the path forward. But I doubt that you would be able to seat the rings now. I've bought a leak-down tester yesterday. So how is the best way to perform the test? I have to get both valves closed to see if the pressure passes the piston rings. Setting piston #1 to this point is no problem, but what is the best way to set the other pistons to this point? Or is the fastest way to "try" it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 27 Share Posted July 27 I've bought a leak-down tester yesterday. So how is the best way to perform the test? I have to get both valves closed to see if the pressure passes the piston rings. Setting piston #1 to this point is no problem, but what is the best way to set the other pistons to this point? Or is the fastest way to "try" it? I took a very thin tape measure and wrapped it around the harmonic balancer to determine the circumference. Then I divided by 4 and marked the balancer every 90 degrees from TDC. Set #1 to TDC and do it leak-down test, checking adjacent cylinders, the intake, the exhaust, and the cooling system for air. Turn the balancer 90 degrees and do the test for the next cylinder in the firing order. Etc. Some say you can test two cylinders at each point as the opposite cylinder should have its valves closed. But I haven't tried that as it is easy enough to test one at a time. If you don't get the piston at exactly TDC then it may try to move down with the air pressure. But I've not had a problem if I really get it on TDC. And I always use 100 psi as that lets me easily determine the % leak down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 30 Author Share Posted July 30 I took a very thin tape measure and wrapped it around the harmonic balancer to determine the circumference. Then I divided by 4 and marked the balancer every 90 degrees from TDC. Set #1 to TDC and do it leak-down test, checking adjacent cylinders, the intake, the exhaust, and the cooling system for air. Turn the balancer 90 degrees and do the test for the next cylinder in the firing order. Etc. Some say you can test two cylinders at each point as the opposite cylinder should have its valves closed. But I haven't tried that as it is easy enough to test one at a time. If you don't get the piston at exactly TDC then it may try to move down with the air pressure. But I've not had a problem if I really get it on TDC. And I always use 100 psi as that lets me easily determine the % leak down. Is it possible, that only my PCV valves is defective? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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