ReneH Posted June 22 Author Share Posted June 22 Well done! Thanks Gary! I have found the villain! It was the o2-sensor! My old sensor This is, what's looking out at the top: Looks like a ceramic splinter... Also the heater has a resistance of nearly one mega ohm... The test-drive hasn't shown the behavior like before. It feels, that the engine runs much smother. Also no sawing in idle, when the engine is warm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 22 Share Posted June 22 Thanks Gary! I have found the villain! It was the o2-sensor! My old sensor This is, what's looking out at the top: Looks like a ceramic splinter... Also the heater has a resistance of nearly one mega ohm... The test-drive hasn't shown the behavior like before. It feels, that the engine runs much smother. Also no sawing in idle, when the engine is warm. Yippee!!! Glad you found it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 23 Author Share Posted June 23 Yippee!!! Glad you found it! So the radiator also has to be replaced. I've bought a new one, and that is, what I've found when replacing the old one: It wasn't the torn bleeder scew, as I thought... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 23 Share Posted June 23 So the radiator also has to be replaced. I've bought a new one, and that is, what I've found when replacing the old one: It wasn't the torn bleeder scew, as I thought... I think you have what I had - a gradual leak that ran down to the bottom and across to the valve and looked like the valve was leaking. But no amount of sealing the valve made it stop. Glad you found it 'cause eventually it would have become a major leak. And those tend to manifest themselves at the worst possible time, like on a long trip when it is really hot. Far away from home and all the tools, plus really uncomfortable to work on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 28 Author Share Posted June 28 I think you have what I had - a gradual leak that ran down to the bottom and across to the valve and looked like the valve was leaking. But no amount of sealing the valve made it stop. Glad you found it 'cause eventually it would have become a major leak. And those tend to manifest themselves at the worst possible time, like on a long trip when it is really hot. Far away from home and all the tools, plus really uncomfortable to work on it. As the next holidays staring in about one month, I want to overhaul my transfer case. I've bought a complete overhaul kit, including all bearings, gaskets and also the chain, some month ago. Is there something special to know, that I'll not find in the documentation? On Saturday, I'll remove the transfer case and also both drive shafts to replace the U-Joints. Depending on how far I will proceed, I will open the case and start to clean it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 As the next holidays staring in about one month, I want to overhaul my transfer case. I've bought a complete overhaul kit, including all bearings, gaskets and also the chain, some month ago. Is there something special to know, that I'll not find in the documentation? On Saturday, I'll remove the transfer case and also both drive shafts to replace the U-Joints. Depending on how far I will proceed, I will open the case and start to clean it. I don't know what transfer case you have, but I rebuilt my BW1345 starting here. There might be some tips in that which would help. But I'll also say to be really, REALLY careful as you take it apart and inspect and possibly label everything. The hardest part for me was determining which seal went where and which way it faced. So as yours comes apart take pictures to make sure you know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 As the next holidays staring in about one month, I want to overhaul my transfer case. I've bought a complete overhaul kit, including all bearings, gaskets and also the chain, some month ago. Is there something special to know, that I'll not find in the documentation? On Saturday, I'll remove the transfer case and also both drive shafts to replace the U-Joints. Depending on how far I will proceed, I will open the case and start to clean it. IF you have a 1356 version there are a couple points to pay close attention to. number one is the "anchor tab" for the oil pump. the pump is held still in the case with a triangular arm with the outer end fitting between two ridges formed in the case. these have a history of wearing into and in some cases, through one of these two ridges. this is due to the contact point is too narrow and is commonly improved by welding a wider foot onto the end. Think "snowshoe". number two is the oil pump pickup tube. it is a plastic tube approx. 9" long and hast to clear steel components. pay close attention to its routing. the third is replace the plastic contact tabs on the shift fork and replace the fork if the tabs are already missing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 29 Author Share Posted June 29 I don't know what transfer case you have, but I rebuilt my BW1345 starting here. There might be some tips in that which would help. But I'll also say to be really, REALLY careful as you take it apart and inspect and possibly label everything. The hardest part for me was determining which seal went where and which way it faced. So as yours comes apart take pictures to make sure you know. Ok. Thanks to you both. I've the BW1345. We have already talked about what type I have, last November, as I've ordered the spare parts. I'll take a look on your thread, Gary. I also document everything by photo. I photograph the most things before and after. Thirty years ago, such a documentation would be more expensive than the spare-parts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 30 Author Share Posted June 30 I don't know what transfer case you have, but I rebuilt my BW1345 starting here. There might be some tips in that which would help. But I'll also say to be really, REALLY careful as you take it apart and inspect and possibly label everything. The hardest part for me was determining which seal went where and which way it faced. So as yours comes apart take pictures to make sure you know. Yesterday I've removed the T-Case and both driveshafts for overhaul. Using my gearbox jack makes this easier than I've thought. I was surprised how light the BW1345 is. It feels, that the T-Case of my CJ7 is much heavier, also when it's much smaller. When removing the rear driveshaft, I noticed, that there is much play on the output of the TC... I assume, this is not common? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 30 Share Posted June 30 Yesterday I've removed the T-Case and both driveshafts for overhaul. Using my gearbox jack makes this easier than I've thought. I was surprised how light the BW1345 is. It feels, that the T-Case of my CJ7 is much heavier, also when it's much smaller. When removing the rear driveshaft, I noticed, that there is much play on the output of the TC... I assume, this is not common? that is a bit too much play for a captured bearing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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