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Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT


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Hmm...you are asking good questions.

I also don't know.

It's interesting that this appears since the low battery...

It's like my beginning with the injectors...but today, all cable in the engine bay are new and in very good condition...:nabble_smiley_happy:

So, something else seems to be wrong.

Rene' The normal O2 sensor is a narrow band device, it produces a voltage signal related to the % O2 in the ehaust stream. I was trying to find a diagram of the voltage curve, but came across this:

Why do O2 sensors fail?

Since the oxygen sensor is in the exhaust stream, it can become contaminated. Common sources of contamination include an excessively rich fuel mixture condition or oil blow-by in an older engine and engine coolant being burnt in the combustion chamber as a result of an engine gasket leak. It is also exposed to extremely high temperatures, and like any component can wear over time. These can all affect the oxygen sensor’s response characteristics, resulting in an extended response time or a shift in the sensor voltage curve and in the long run reduced sensor performance.

Hopefully this will at least help. Are you running a heated O2 sensor? Is it still in the original 1986 location?

The paragraph above would lead me to agree with Gary the O2 sensor may be bad.

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Rene' The normal O2 sensor is a narrow band device, it produces a voltage signal related to the % O2 in the ehaust stream. I was trying to find a diagram of the voltage curve, but came across this:

Why do O2 sensors fail?

Since the oxygen sensor is in the exhaust stream, it can become contaminated. Common sources of contamination include an excessively rich fuel mixture condition or oil blow-by in an older engine and engine coolant being burnt in the combustion chamber as a result of an engine gasket leak. It is also exposed to extremely high temperatures, and like any component can wear over time. These can all affect the oxygen sensor’s response characteristics, resulting in an extended response time or a shift in the sensor voltage curve and in the long run reduced sensor performance.

Hopefully this will at least help. Are you running a heated O2 sensor? Is it still in the original 1986 location?

The paragraph above would lead me to agree with Gary the O2 sensor may be bad.

:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig: I just quoted the same thing back to you via email.

Yes, the ATF may have shifted the band just enough where the ECU thinks it has a 14.7:1 AFR when it is actually something like 16:1. That could make the engine doggy and maybe even miss under light throttle.

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Rene' The normal O2 sensor is a narrow band device, it produces a voltage signal related to the % O2 in the ehaust stream. I was trying to find a diagram of the voltage curve, but came across this:

Why do O2 sensors fail?

Since the oxygen sensor is in the exhaust stream, it can become contaminated. Common sources of contamination include an excessively rich fuel mixture condition or oil blow-by in an older engine and engine coolant being burnt in the combustion chamber as a result of an engine gasket leak. It is also exposed to extremely high temperatures, and like any component can wear over time. These can all affect the oxygen sensor’s response characteristics, resulting in an extended response time or a shift in the sensor voltage curve and in the long run reduced sensor performance.

Hopefully this will at least help. Are you running a heated O2 sensor? Is it still in the original 1986 location?

The paragraph above would lead me to agree with Gary the O2 sensor may be bad.

Hi Bill,

I use this heated O2 sensor from Bosch:

Rockauto

It's located in the downpipe of the passenger side.

Maybe I should clean it? Can this help?

I've driven today about 25 miles without any changes in behavior.

 

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Hi Bill,

I use this heated O2 sensor from Bosch:

Rockauto

It's located in the downpipe of the passenger side.

Maybe I should clean it? Can this help?

I've driven today about 25 miles without any changes in behavior.

Rene' I am not sure they can be sucessfully cleaned as the heater should burn off the ATF, but, like anything you burn there is usually some residue, ashes or anything that won't burn. Since you are going to have to remove it anyway, I would get a new one and install it.

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Rene' I am not sure they can be sucessfully cleaned as the heater should burn off the ATF, but, like anything you burn there is usually some residue, ashes or anything that won't burn. Since you are going to have to remove it anyway, I would get a new one and install it.

Ok, as I'm not exactly knowing what this error causes, I've decided to order some more spare-parts.

Screenshot_20240616_080958_Chrome.thumb.jpg.80b2cf69ed6e2fc3db7e837083573392.jpg

Screenshot_20240616_081010_Chrome.thumb.jpg.41bd16eb83624de898b1cb7ba087e817.jpg

I've also added a new radiator, cause since I've flushed the cooling system like Gary told me, my original radiator is dripping on the passenger side and I can't see from where is comes.

I know the the drain plug is broken and can't turned out. I've tried this already in the past.

As I've replaced all sensors in the past, I might got a bad one by factory.

I also have a new fuel pump and a new pressure regulator in my stock. - only to be save.

If the ATF has entered the vacuum system, it may be able to damage other connected devices like the MAP or the pressure regulator, that may not be able to deal with ATF on the vacuum connection side.

What do you think about this strategy?

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Ok, as I'm not exactly knowing what this error causes, I've decided to order some more spare-parts.

I've also added a new radiator, cause since I've flushed the cooling system like Gary told me, my original radiator is dripping on the passenger side and I can't see from where is comes.

I know the the drain plug is broken and can't turned out. I've tried this already in the past.

As I've replaced all sensors in the past, I might got a bad one by factory.

I also have a new fuel pump and a new pressure regulator in my stock. - only to be save.

If the ATF has entered the vacuum system, it may be able to damage other connected devices like the MAP or the pressure regulator, that may not be able to deal with ATF on the vacuum connection side.

What do you think about this strategy?

I'm not an expert, but depending on where your MAP sensor is I can see the ATF may have gotten there. However, I doubt it would have hurt the MAP sensor nor the fuel pressure regulator.

But I think the air charge temp sensor is upstream enough that it wouldn't have seen the ATF, and the coolant temp sensor can't have seen it. But it won't hurt to have the spares.

As for the radiator, if the one you have is leaking then it is time to replace it - unless you have a shop there that repairs radiators. Most here have gone out of business and probably have there as well.

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Ok, as I'm not exactly knowing what this error causes, I've decided to order some more spare-parts.

I've also added a new radiator, cause since I've flushed the cooling system like Gary told me, my original radiator is dripping on the passenger side and I can't see from where is comes.

I know the the drain plug is broken and can't turned out. I've tried this already in the past.

As I've replaced all sensors in the past, I might got a bad one by factory.

I also have a new fuel pump and a new pressure regulator in my stock. - only to be save.

If the ATF has entered the vacuum system, it may be able to damage other connected devices like the MAP or the pressure regulator, that may not be able to deal with ATF on the vacuum connection side.

What do you think about this strategy?

Rene' the MAP sensor, if it is in the original location for the 1986 trucks, possibly could have gotten some ATF in it, but before I "shotgunned" parts at it, I would pull the hose off and see if there is any ATF in there.

Radiator, I hope you get a good one, unfortunately some of the aftermarket parts I have run across are not that great.

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Rene' the MAP sensor, if it is in the original location for the 1986 trucks, possibly could have gotten some ATF in it, but before I "shotgunned" parts at it, I would pull the hose off and see if there is any ATF in there.

Radiator, I hope you get a good one, unfortunately some of the aftermarket parts I have run across are not that great.

Yes, I'm with you both. But unless I haven't found the reason for the behavior, I feel much saver to have replacement for all sensors in stock. It's also possible, that one has failed and the ATF has nothing to do with it.

Regarding the radiator, I will buy the one from which I've done a screenshot.

There are also some full-aluminium types available on the aftermarket, 3-row-types.

But I'll try the one from the screenshot above.

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Rene' the MAP sensor, if it is in the original location for the 1986 trucks, possibly could have gotten some ATF in it, but before I "shotgunned" parts at it, I would pull the hose off and see if there is any ATF in there.

Radiator, I hope you get a good one, unfortunately some of the aftermarket parts I have run across are not that great.

Yesterday I've changed the dipstick.

The right one is the new stick. The stick reaches deeper into the pan as my current one and it enters not straight, it does in an arc.

20240616_101239.jpg.f8eb667de6e2d7bafe79268f78b97318.jpg

20240616_114006.jpg.fc2bb165e9dfcfcb6d65693d3631fabe.jpg

20240616_113431.jpg.80814de5fda8da439c3807559b7a3372.jpg

Now I've got a reading, so it seems to fit.

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Yesterday I've changed the dipstick.

The right one is the new stick. The stick reaches deeper into the pan as my current one and it enters not straight, it does in an arc.

Now I've got a reading, so it seems to fit.

Well done! :nabble_anim_claps:

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