ReneH Posted July 3, 2023 Author Share Posted July 3, 2023 Rene, those same door panels on my 92 Bronco are the noisiest panels I have ever seen. The passenger side was so bad on a trip I stuffed rolled up napkins in it to quiet it down. When I got home I pulled that panel and could see where it was rubbing, white dust on the door. I trimmed that panel a lot. I used shears in a couple of spots it was so bad, then a Dremel tool. It took putting the panel on and off a lot to check the trimming I did. Ok...that sounds like what I feared... I also have got some EVA insulation material to get it quiet. I also have driven without the panels and the doors also makes noise. So it seems that the doors need to be strengthened not to rattle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 3, 2023 Share Posted July 3, 2023 Ok...that sounds like what I feared... I also have got some EVA insulation material to get it quiet. I also have driven without the panels and the doors also makes noise. So it seems that the doors need to be strengthened not to rattle. Rene', new weatherstrip and possibly new strikers (pins) for the latches will probably cure the door rattles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 3, 2023 Share Posted July 3, 2023 Rene', new weatherstrip and possibly new strikers (pins) for the latches will probably cure the door rattles. Rene - You might want to read about the PEX Door Striker Mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 4, 2023 Author Share Posted July 4, 2023 Rene - You might want to read about the PEX Door Striker Mod. Ok, thanks! I already have bought new anti-rattle strikers, last year: Haven't installed them up today... But back to my question about the inner weather strip...is it only mounted to the door panel as shown on my photo above? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 4, 2023 Share Posted July 4, 2023 Ok, thanks! I already have bought new anti-rattle strikers, last year: Haven't installed them up today... But back to my question about the inner weather strip...is it only mounted to the door panel as shown on my photo above? Those strikers should help. And they are the later design that comes apart so you can replace the tubing if you need to do so. And the inner weather strip, it only mounts to the door panel. Originally Ford, or their supplier, stapled them on, but I tried that and broke the panel. Instead I now pop rivet them on with washers as backing plates to spread the load. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
81-F150-Explorer Posted July 4, 2023 Share Posted July 4, 2023 Those strikers should help. And they are the later design that comes apart so you can replace the tubing if you need to do so. And the inner weather strip, it only mounts to the door panel. Originally Ford, or their supplier, stapled them on, but I tried that and broke the panel. Instead I now pop rivet them on with washers as backing plates to spread the load. I notice you are using 1992-1996 door panels. The vent window and door window are of different dimensions 1987-1996 to a 1980-1986. Thus the window anti-rattle seals on the door panels and doors will be different lengths between, 1980-1986 / 1987-1996, with the 1980-1986 ones being longer. So it depends on which windows you have, to which seals you need. hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 5, 2023 Author Share Posted July 5, 2023 Those strikers should help. And they are the later design that comes apart so you can replace the tubing if you need to do so. And the inner weather strip, it only mounts to the door panel. Originally Ford, or their supplier, stapled them on, but I tried that and broke the panel. Instead I now pop rivet them on with washers as backing plates to spread the load. Ok, so I'll clip them in and rivet them or maybe use screws. If I use rivets, I'll prefer spread rivets for plastic. They'll need no washers... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 5, 2023 Author Share Posted July 5, 2023 I notice you are using 1992-1996 door panels. The vent window and door window are of different dimensions 1987-1996 to a 1980-1986. Thus the window anti-rattle seals on the door panels and doors will be different lengths between, 1980-1986 / 1987-1996, with the 1980-1986 ones being longer. So it depends on which windows you have, to which seals you need. hope this helps. Interesting, thanks. So the former owner also has changed the window itself to fit the newer vent window? What an afford... But as he was someone who compensates a bent connection rod by grinding the the backside of the piston to prevent it from colliding with the counterweight of the crankshaft, everything seems possible at my truck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 Interesting, thanks. So the former owner also has changed the window itself to fit the newer vent window? What an afford... But as he was someone who compensates a bent connection rod by grinding the the backside of the piston to prevent it from colliding with the counterweight of the crankshaft, everything seems possible at my truck... Yes, you can also use screws. But spreading the load is a good idea however you fasten them. As for everything being possible on your truck, you aren't alone as had his way with my truck. He cut a hole in the engine crossmember to weaken it, wired around the inertia switch so the fuel pump wasn't protected, bypassed the resistor to put full battery power to the fuel pump, etc, etc, etc. It took me years to unravel and put straight what he'd done. So I feel for you. Been there and it isn't fun. But you can eventually sort it all out. Hang in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 Yes, you can also use screws. But spreading the load is a good idea however you fasten them. As for everything being possible on your truck, you aren't alone as had his way with my truck. He cut a hole in the engine crossmember to weaken it, wired around the inertia switch so the fuel pump wasn't protected, bypassed the resistor to put full battery power to the fuel pump, etc, etc, etc. It took me years to unravel and put straight what he'd done. So I feel for you. Been there and it isn't fun. But you can eventually sort it all out. Hang in there. True, I got lucky on Darth, just no accelerator pump on the Holley carb due to improper assembly of the front float bowl. Oil filter adapter loose (my 1987 Horizon definitely wouldn't rust after being towed behind Darth), both rear fenders broken (part of one was in the bed). Heater return swivel fitting brazed together, timing set at 10° ATDC by the 3 day a week part time "mechanic" at the dealer in Gordonsville VA. Rear tank fuel pump DOA, front tank - "don't fill it more than 3/4, it will leak" rusted through under the not needed heat shield (installed as a blanket recall on 460 powered trucks due to ambulance fires from exhaust heat boiling gas in the front tank), Darth's went in the trash when the "new" 1990 tank was installed as that extra 35" solves the heat issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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