Gary Lewis Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Ok. That's interesting...I can't remember, that there was liquid inside the reservoir. But I never have had problems with the cooling-system... Is it possible, that the hose is connected on the wrong output on the radiator? Has the hose on the output nearer or farer from the cap? You have it connected correctly. The hose near the cap goes to the overflow reservoir and the lower one goes to pre-heat on the EFI system - if your system uses that. But Ford decided after a few years that the pre-heat isn't needed so most of the radiators are capped there. However, that port is under full pressure so it cannot be connected to the recovery reservoir w/o problems. As for not having coolant in the reservoir, you apparently don't have the cooling system completely full. If the system is full up to the neck of the radiator and has no air in it then when the coolant gets hot and expands the pressure valve in the cap will open and coolant will come out into the reservoir. After you've driven the truck and it cools down completely, like over night, pull the radiator cap and fill the system up until it is FULL. Put the cap on and then put coolant in the overflow reservoir - maybe 2" of coolant or up to the Full Cold line if yours has that. It may take two or three rounds of driving/cooling/filling, but once you get the cooling system full and all the air out you can check the level of coolant just by watching the reservoir. When cold it should be at the same place every time. If not, you have a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 You have it connected correctly. The hose near the cap goes to the overflow reservoir and the lower one goes to pre-heat on the EFI system - if your system uses that. But Ford decided after a few years that the pre-heat isn't needed so most of the radiators are capped there. However, that port is under full pressure so it cannot be connected to the recovery reservoir w/o problems. As for not having coolant in the reservoir, you apparently don't have the cooling system completely full. If the system is full up to the neck of the radiator and has no air in it then when the coolant gets hot and expands the pressure valve in the cap will open and coolant will come out into the reservoir. After you've driven the truck and it cools down completely, like over night, pull the radiator cap and fill the system up until it is FULL. Put the cap on and then put coolant in the overflow reservoir - maybe 2" of coolant or up to the Full Cold line if yours has that. It may take two or three rounds of driving/cooling/filling, but once you get the cooling system full and all the air out you can check the level of coolant just by watching the reservoir. When cold it should be at the same place every time. If not, you have a leak. Ok, i will fill it that way. But it's very interesting, that I have driven like that over the apls at about 35 degrees Celsius without having problems... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Ok, i will fill it that way. But it's very interesting, that I have driven like that over the apls at about 35 degrees Celsius without having problems... René - I remembered this morning that I have a copy of Ford's Service Technician Specialty Training (STST) manual on Engine Cooling System & Components. So I scanned it in and put it on the page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/Engine Cooling System Training Manual. You might want to look at pages 9 - 12 for a better explanation than I've given of the radiator cap, coolant recovery reservoir, and thermostat. As for having driven over the Alps at 35C, that's "only" 95F. We frequently see well over that and a properly maintained system handles that fairly easily. But if you don't have a coolant recovery reservoir then when it gets up to those temps it will push coolant out due to expansion. And when your system cools it'll suck air back in where you once had coolant. So now you have less coolant in the system. That air then may get trapped in the system in high spots and more coolant comes out as the system heats up. So you may continually lose coolant and ultimately overheat. Yes, you can get by w/o a coolant recovery reservoir. But your system isn't working as well as it was designed to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 René - I remembered this morning that I have a copy of Ford's Service Technician Specialty Training (STST) manual on Engine Cooling System & Components. So I scanned it in and put it on the page at Documentation/Cooling Systems/Engine Cooling System Training Manual. You might want to look at pages 9 - 12 for a better explanation than I've given of the radiator cap, coolant recovery reservoir, and thermostat. As for having driven over the Alps at 35C, that's "only" 95F. We frequently see well over that and a properly maintained system handles that fairly easily. But if you don't have a coolant recovery reservoir then when it gets up to those temps it will push coolant out due to expansion. And when your system cools it'll suck air back in where you once had coolant. So now you have less coolant in the system. That air then may get trapped in the system in high spots and more coolant comes out as the system heats up. So you may continually lose coolant and ultimately overheat. Yes, you can get by w/o a coolant recovery reservoir. But your system isn't working as well as it was designed to work. Ok. Thanks Gary! I haven't the original cap installed...maybe this is the problem? I will follow your instructions to fill the coolant system. I have no markings on the reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Ok. Thanks Gary! I haven't the original cap installed...maybe this is the problem? I will follow your instructions to fill the coolant system. I have no markings on the reservoir. I don't know that you have a problem. I'm thinking that you've never gotten the system completely full and then kept coolant in the recovery reservoir. It does no good to get the system completely full if there isn't coolant kept in the recovery reservoir to suck back in when everything cools. So give it a try with that cap. I'm not sure there is anything wrong with it. At least it has all of the needed bits: Yellow: This seal is the one that keeps pressure on the system until it reaches 13 psi, at which point it overcomes the spring and lets coolant out into the neck of the radiator and then on into the recovery reservoir. Red: That is the seal at the top of the radiator's neck, and it channels the coolant to the reservoir when the spring opens and lets it out. But when things cool it ensures that there's a tight seal so a vacuum is drawn in the radiator. Green: The check valve closes with pressure, but as the system cools and a vacuum forms it opens and the vacuum sucks coolant back in from the recovery reservoir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 I don't know that you have a problem. I'm thinking that you've never gotten the system completely full and then kept coolant in the recovery reservoir. It does no good to get the system completely full if there isn't coolant kept in the recovery reservoir to suck back in when everything cools. So give it a try with that cap. I'm not sure there is anything wrong with it. At least it has all of the needed bits: Yellow: This seal is the one that keeps pressure on the system until it reaches 13 psi, at which point it overcomes the spring and lets coolant out into the neck of the radiator and then on into the recovery reservoir. Red: That is the seal at the top of the radiator's neck, and it channels the coolant to the reservoir when the spring opens and lets it out. But when things cool it ensures that there's a tight seal so a vacuum is drawn in the radiator. Green: The check valve closes with pressure, but as the system cools and a vacuum forms it opens and the vacuum sucks coolant back in from the recovery reservoir. So, after changing the TPS to the 1994-Type from Motorcraft and also the C6 modulator, the problem still occurs. Trying to accelerate slowly, when driving a constant speed with warm Engine, there is a lack of power and the engine misfires. It feels that the misfire only happen on the driver's side. I feel it at the floor panel. It only occurs when: - the engine is warm. - at part throttle, trying to accelerate slowly. - when driving It doesn't occurs when: - in parking position varying the throttle position slowly. - driving, releasing the pedal a bit and pushing it even more, that's needed. RPM raises faster and there is no feelable lack of power. After the error occurs and slow down the car until it holds, it got a raw idle. The engine is sawing. This behavior vanishes after switching off the engine and restart some minutes later. As changing the TPS and fixing the new one, I noticed, that one of the two screws can't be fixed tight. It seems, that there is something wrong with the thread inside the throttle body. I have checked and set the TPS voltage, with engine off. 0.9 to 4.7V Maybe the throttle sometimes moves the TPS sensor when it's getting warm, cause it isn't fixed correctly... If this is not the reason, I only can imagine that one of the temperature related sensors is defective. Another point I've thought about us, if it is possible that the alternator can have caused an over-voltage or overcurrent and damaged something... I hope this behavior has nothing to do with the metallic sound that one of the pushrods does, when the engine is cold...I have told about this in the past. It hasn't changed. So it doesn't get worse or better. But I can't imagine this as the reason, cause in my understanding, if a valve won't open or close correctly, it will do it in a regular way and it doesn't matter the throttle position... That's the current situation. I'm happy about all input I can get to solve it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 So, after changing the TPS to the 1994-Type from Motorcraft and also the C6 modulator, the problem still occurs. Trying to accelerate slowly, when driving a constant speed with warm Engine, there is a lack of power and the engine misfires. It feels that the misfire only happen on the driver's side. I feel it at the floor panel. It only occurs when: - the engine is warm. - at part throttle, trying to accelerate slowly. - when driving It doesn't occurs when: - in parking position varying the throttle position slowly. - driving, releasing the pedal a bit and pushing it even more, that's needed. RPM raises faster and there is no feelable lack of power. After the error occurs and slow down the car until it holds, it got a raw idle. The engine is sawing. This behavior vanishes after switching off the engine and restart some minutes later. As changing the TPS and fixing the new one, I noticed, that one of the two screws can't be fixed tight. It seems, that there is something wrong with the thread inside the throttle body. I have checked and set the TPS voltage, with engine off. 0.9 to 4.7V Maybe the throttle sometimes moves the TPS sensor when it's getting warm, cause it isn't fixed correctly... If this is not the reason, I only can imagine that one of the temperature related sensors is defective. Another point I've thought about us, if it is possible that the alternator can have caused an over-voltage or overcurrent and damaged something... I hope this behavior has nothing to do with the metallic sound that one of the pushrods does, when the engine is cold...I have told about this in the past. It hasn't changed. So it doesn't get worse or better. But I can't imagine this as the reason, cause in my understanding, if a valve won't open or close correctly, it will do it in a regular way and it doesn't matter the throttle position... That's the current situation. I'm happy about all input I can get to solve it. I'm lost. I don't understand. I'm going to tag Bill as he's dealt with the EEC-IV system much more than I have. Bill - This started after he left the lights on and took the battery voltage low. But he's driven the truck and it doesn't seem to be learning, so while I thought it would learn and fix the lean problem it doesn't. Could we have a bad O2 sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 I'm lost. I don't understand. I'm going to tag Bill as he's dealt with the EEC-IV system much more than I have. Bill - This started after he left the lights on and took the battery voltage low. But he's driven the truck and it doesn't seem to be learning, so while I thought it would learn and fix the lean problem it doesn't. Could we have a bad O2 sensor? Hmm...O2-Sensor... Maybe it got too much of the burnt ATF, that the engine sucks out of the C6 modulator... As the sensor only works, when it's warm, it may a possibility...how can I check it? I can easily access the cable from it to the ECU. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 14 Share Posted June 14 Hmm...O2-Sensor... Maybe it got too much of the burnt ATF, that the engine sucks out of the C6 modulator... As the sensor only works, when it's warm, it may a possibility...how can I check it? I can easily access the cable from it to the ECU. I don't know that you can check an O2 sensor. You don't know what air/fuel ratio it is seeing so don't know what its output should be. And it is especially difficult with the narrow-band sensor(s) you have since they only show the right output at a very precise AFR. So I'm wondering if it has been damaged due to the ATF in the fuel and, therefore, exhaust? And can driving with no ATF in the fuel correct it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 14 Author Share Posted June 14 I don't know that you can check an O2 sensor. You don't know what air/fuel ratio it is seeing so don't know what its output should be. And it is especially difficult with the narrow-band sensor(s) you have since they only show the right output at a very precise AFR. So I'm wondering if it has been damaged due to the ATF in the fuel and, therefore, exhaust? And can driving with no ATF in the fuel correct it? Hmm...you are asking good questions. I also don't know. It's interesting that this appears since the low battery... It's like my beginning with the injectors...but today, all cable in the engine bay are new and in very good condition... So, something else seems to be wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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