mat in tn Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 Nothing to see anymore on my modulator. I've found this information: "The black stripe is a small diaphragm/low vacuum modulator and is mainly used in heavier vehicles and trucks. It has a low shift point. This modulator is also popular in performance applications due to the low shift point. The purple stripe has a slightly larger diaphragm and is designed for use in normal to heavier passenger vehicles. It has a medium shift point. The green stripe is similar to the purple stripe, but will provide a slightly later shift point. It is designed for normal passenger vehicle usage and is the most popular modulator used the C6." So I'll order a black and a purple type. Or maybe better all three... please verify that it is a push in and not a screw in before ordering what it lloks like from the picture is not a guarantee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 9 Author Share Posted June 9 please verify that it is a push in and not a screw in before ordering what it lloks like from the picture is not a guarantee. There is only push-in available. Mine is also push-in. Secured by one bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 9 Author Share Posted June 9 please verify that it is a push in and not a screw in before ordering what it lloks like from the picture is not a guarantee. I'll order a new one and also a new TPS. It's the most likely suspect, that may can cause this behavior...in my understanding. Will this one from a 1994 351W work? Rockauto Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 9 Share Posted June 9 I'll order a new one and also a new TPS. It's the most likely suspect, that may can cause this behavior...in my understanding. Will this one from a 1994 351W work? Rockauto are you using a throttle body from a 351w? or are you still using the 5.0 throttle body and upper/lower intake? buy parts like this for the 5.0 regardless of the stroker kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 are you using a throttle body from a 351w? or are you still using the 5.0 throttle body and upper/lower intake? buy parts like this for the 5.0 regardless of the stroker kit. Im using a 351W throttle body and also the 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory camshaft. All from 1989 model. I have bought now the 1994 TPS from Motorcraft and the C6 modulator with black and purple marking. Let's see, how it works. For the TPS setup, I'll try to get it work between 0.9V and 4.5V. Yesterday I've refilled 0.5 liter ATF in my C6. Now I've got the level between the two points on the dipstick, measuring warm in idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 10 Author Share Posted June 10 Im using a 351W throttle body and also the 351W EEC-IV and 351W factory camshaft. All from 1989 model. I have bought now the 1994 TPS from Motorcraft and the C6 modulator with black and purple marking. Let's see, how it works. For the TPS setup, I'll try to get it work between 0.9V and 4.5V. Yesterday I've refilled 0.5 liter ATF in my C6. Now I've got the level between the two points on the dipstick, measuring warm in idle. I also got the time to install my new windshield washer: It sucks the reservoir empty within 3 minutes...it works very well and much better than the original washer nozzle. I thought about using the whole reservoir for washer fluid and disconnect the cooler overflow. But I can't get off the lid of the reservoir to clean and work on it. I also use wiperblades made for the 1994 LeBaron. In my opinion better than the ones, rockauto.com shows me as correct parts. TRICO 18190. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 10 Share Posted June 10 I also got the time to install my new windshield washer: It sucks the reservoir empty within 3 minutes...it works very well and much better than the original washer nozzle. I thought about using the whole reservoir for washer fluid and disconnect the cooler overflow. But I can't get off the lid of the reservoir to clean and work on it. I also use wiperblades made for the 1994 LeBaron. In my opinion better than the ones, rockauto.com shows me as correct parts. TRICO 18190. You bought the modulator and TPS but don't have them installed yet, right? And after filling the transmission did it drive any differently? As for the washer reservoir, I've not found a good way to seal the top back on - assuming you can get it off w/o breaking the old plastic. And I really think you'll be sorry you don't have the overflow reservoir for the cooling system if you were to merge the two. The system needs some place to put coolant when it heats up, and you really want it to suck that coolant back in instead of sucking air back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 You bought the modulator and TPS but don't have them installed yet, right? And after filling the transmission did it drive any differently? As for the washer reservoir, I've not found a good way to seal the top back on - assuming you can get it off w/o breaking the old plastic. And I really think you'll be sorry you don't have the overflow reservoir for the cooling system if you were to merge the two. The system needs some place to put coolant when it heats up, and you really want it to suck that coolant back in instead of sucking air back in. Yes. I'm waiting for rockauto.com delivering me the parts. Maybe end of this week. Yes, the behavior has come up again, but I haven't done longer trips anymore. At least on Friday I have to drive a longer distance. Ok...then I'll stay with the original washer fluid container. What you say about the cooling system is very interesting...my container is connected to the overflow output of the radiator. So as far as I know, this is a one-way connection. Coolant fluid only will come out here, if the maximum pressure of the radiator cap is reached. No way back for the fluid. There is another connection on my radiator, that was plugged by the former owner. I don't know what to connect here. Maybe the container has to be connected here and the overflow output directly below the cap has to be connected only with a hose to drop the overheated fluid to the bottom, when the cap opens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 11 Share Posted June 11 Yes. I'm waiting for rockauto.com delivering me the parts. Maybe end of this week. Yes, the behavior has come up again, but I haven't done longer trips anymore. At least on Friday I have to drive a longer distance. Ok...then I'll stay with the original washer fluid container. What you say about the cooling system is very interesting...my container is connected to the overflow output of the radiator. So as far as I know, this is a one-way connection. Coolant fluid only will come out here, if the maximum pressure of the radiator cap is reached. No way back for the fluid. There is another connection on my radiator, that was plugged by the former owner. I don't know what to connect here. Maybe the container has to be connected here and the overflow output directly below the cap has to be connected only with a hose to drop the overheated fluid to the bottom, when the cap opens. The little disc on the radiator cap that is at the very bottom and dangles loose when turned right side up is actually a check valve. It closes under pressure, like when the system warms up. But it opens when the system cools and starts to pull a vacuum. When it opens the coolant in the overflow reservoir gets sucked back into the radiator. But if there’s no coolant in the reservoir it sucks in air. So you need the overflow reservoir and you need to keep some coolant in it. A properly operating cooling system will push coolant out into the reservoir when it warms up, and the warmer it gets the more it pushes out, and then suck it back in as it cools. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 11 Author Share Posted June 11 The little disc on the radiator cap that is at the very bottom and dangles loose when turned right side up is actually a check valve. It closes under pressure, like when the system warms up. But it opens when the system cools and starts to pull a vacuum. When it opens the coolant in the overflow reservoir gets sucked back into the radiator. But if there’s no coolant in the reservoir it sucks in air. So you need the overflow reservoir and you need to keep some coolant in it. A properly operating cooling system will push coolant out into the reservoir when it warms up, and the warmer it gets the more it pushes out, and then suck it back in as it cools. Ok. That's interesting...I can't remember, that there was liquid inside the reservoir. But I never have had problems with the cooling-system... Is it possible, that the hose is connected on the wrong output on the radiator? Has the hose on the output nearer or farer from the cap? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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