Gary Lewis Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Ok. So I definitely should change my dipstick. I found one, made of stainless steel, that fits to Ford 260 289 302cui Small Block "D" Engine Length: 20.25" - 514mm Will this fit? They don't say something about the year of the engines... This is the setup...so a straight one will fit much better, I think. So, this is what my dipstick shows me, after an oil change with 6 quarts... Maybe it looses the oil inside the long, bent tube. Oilpressure is ok, so this is, why I don't trust this dipstick... I think yours is from an E-Series van as you only had access from the front. And yes, I think the one you've found should work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 I think yours is from an E-Series van as you only had access from the front. And yes, I think the one you've found should work. bending the tube and the dipstick should not have any meaningful change. the dipstick tube enters the block at the same angle regardless. therefore, the dipstick stays at relatively the same angle for measure bending around a header or other accessory a little for reach or access should be fine. the real question is whether the dipstick and tube are a matched set. the dipstick should extend a few inches past the tube in the pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 bending the tube and the dipstick should not have any meaningful change. the dipstick tube enters the block at the same angle regardless. therefore, the dipstick stays at relatively the same angle for measure bending around a header or other accessory a little for reach or access should be fine. the real question is whether the dipstick and tube are a matched set. the dipstick should extend a few inches past the tube in the pan. I have a feeling bending might be a cause of variation on dipsticks. Will need to do some math. Imagining a 400m race at the olympics and how the guy in the inner track and outer track are spaced to account for the curvature If someones got a dipstick and tube out, can you try bending the tube and seeing if the dipstick moves in or out at the bottom end ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 In my experience the groove for the 2nd belt on the alternator pulley is thinner than the other groove. So my fear has been that you'll have different "gearing" ratios between the two belts. Maybe one sits higher in the pulley than the other. But if you can get it set up where you can run two belts that would be great. I had to make a pulley for Dad's truck to do that, and it did it by enlarging the 2nd groove on an aluminum pulley to take the same size belt as the other groove. About the dipstick, I will order the straight one. About the new belt...I found what I was looking for...Here it is... The power-steering pump is still connected by a V-belt, directly to the crankshaft pulley. I think this is a good solution, cause all kits for a conversion to a Serpentine belt starts above 500 USD...and there is much work to fit the tension pulleys... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 7 Author Share Posted June 7 I think yours is from an E-Series van as you only had access from the front. And yes, I think the one you've found should work. Hi, does anyone know, if this brackets will fit and if they are useful, especially when I switch to the gilmer belt for the alternator? I have no A/C installed... Brackets Gilmer conversion Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted June 7 Share Posted June 7 Hi, does anyone know, if this brackets will fit and if they are useful, especially when I switch to the gilmer belt for the alternator? I have no A/C installed... Brackets Gilmer conversion I'm not sure about this. it will fit the engine but may not fit the vehicle. these parts are for mustang which holds the components at different angles and possibly different depths. which accessory drives do you need? alt, water pump, power steering, most likely but what about a/c? I like more power as much as the next guy but if you are only going down this rabbit hole over an alternator, I would consider a lighter alternator. these systems have been working in massive numbers for years. is there really a need for this?? my original truck still has the original. a 60amp I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 8 Author Share Posted June 8 I'm not sure about this. it will fit the engine but may not fit the vehicle. these parts are for mustang which holds the components at different angles and possibly different depths. which accessory drives do you need? alt, water pump, power steering, most likely but what about a/c? I like more power as much as the next guy but if you are only going down this rabbit hole over an alternator, I would consider a lighter alternator. these systems have been working in massive numbers for years. is there really a need for this?? my original truck still has the original. a 60amp I believe. Hi, I have asked the dealer about the fitment to my Bronco. I have only the 3G alternator and the power steering pump and of course the water pump. I have changed the alternator to 3G, cause It was recommended to me. The 1G is weak, the 2G tends to burn. The 3G are the best choice. So as my 1G has defective bearings, I followed the recommendations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 8 Author Share Posted June 8 Yes, the ECU might be the problem, but I don't think there is anything for you to do but drive it. If I'm right the undervoltage did the same as disconnecting the battery, meaning it cleared out some of the memory functions. So now you just have to drive it to let it learn again. As for the belt conversion, it would stop the squeal as the ribbed belt appears to be able to transfer enough power for the 3G. But if it is expensive it may not be worth it. Just don't leave the lights on or put a charger on it before you start. If the battery isn't very low it won't slip very much or very long. Hi Gary, so as it seems the theory of the forgetful ECU isn't correct. I have been driven about 50 miles and the error still occurs. I also have done a reset by disconnecting the battery for about 10 mins. - Also no change. So the error occurs only, when: 1. The engine is warm. 2. Driving at constant speed and trying to accelerate slowly If I press the pedal with more force, it doesn't occur. The idle is raw. (I have done a video) When I try to accelerate slowly, it feels like annything stucks...pressing the pedal more, seems to release it. I'll start checking error codes first. Then I'll check the timing. Offtopic: It also seems that my gearbox has too less oil inside... checked warm, in idle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 8 Share Posted June 8 Hi Gary, so as it seems the theory of the forgetful ECU isn't correct. I have been driven about 50 miles and the error still occurs. I also have done a reset by disconnecting the battery for about 10 mins. - Also no change. So the error occurs only, when: 1. The engine is warm. 2. Driving at constant speed and trying to accelerate slowly If I press the pedal with more force, it doesn't occur. The idle is raw. (I have done a video) When I try to accelerate slowly, it feels like annything stucks...pressing the pedal more, seems to release it. I'll start checking error codes first. Then I'll check the timing. Offtopic: It also seems that my gearbox has too less oil inside... checked warm, in idle. It is running lean for some reason when you slowly depress the throttle. So yes, check the codes. And if you don't see anything there check the throttle position sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 8 Author Share Posted June 8 It is running lean for some reason when you slowly depress the throttle. So yes, check the codes. And if you don't see anything there check the throttle position sensor. Hi Gary, no codes expect of 41 and 33 on KOER-Test. KOEO test quits with 11. As I have removed the EGR, this should be not unusual. TPS is between 0.86 and 4.5 volts... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts