Gary Lewis Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 106A on Ryan's video, but their are different belts (like the green power equipment ones) that are meant for more abuse, more traction, whatever... Plus, you can always media blast the sheave if the LRC doesn't quite cut it. Just don't keep tightening the belt. You'll kill the front alternator bearing. I don't know what to do in a case like Jeff's where the truck sits for weeks and the battery gets neglected. Perhaps, given the variables involved, such as the type of belt, the belt wrap, smoothness of the pulley, and the belt tightness we should just say "somewhere around 100 amps" for the limitation of a V-belt. In any case a single V-belt is the weak link in a 3G setup As for the battery(s), I keep Big Blue on a charger when I'm not driving him. He has so many electronic devices on him that they will pull the battery down some when just sitting. The dashcam setup monitors all the time so pulls current, and while it has a turnoff point if the voltage gets low, I don't want to take the battery down that much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 5 Author Share Posted June 5 The belt squeal with one V-belt on a 3G is what I've always assumed would happen with a low battery. The 3G can put out more power than the belt is designed to transfer. If my memory serves, a single V-belt can transfer about 95 amps worth of power and the 3G was probably wanting to put out more than that. So the belt is the limiting factor and slips. But once the battery voltage comes up and the regulator cuts the alternator's output down to less than ~95A then the belt is capable of transferring the needed power and quits slipping. However, you should check the belt to see if it was damaged, and ensure it is on tightly. As for the miss, I don't think it is related - unless the voltage got low enough that the ECU forgot some settings. If that is the case then driving it should let it re-learn and not go so lean. Ok, so you mean that the ECU could be the problem, cause it gets undervoltage? So, as far as I can imagine, a reset by disconnecting the battery for some minutes should fix the problem... In case of the belts I'm still think about a flat belt conversion...but as far as I remember, this is relatively expensive... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 Ok, so you mean that the ECU could be the problem, cause it gets undervoltage? So, as far as I can imagine, a reset by disconnecting the battery for some minutes should fix the problem... In case of the belts I'm still think about a flat belt conversion...but as far as I remember, this is relatively expensive... Yes, the ECU might be the problem, but I don't think there is anything for you to do but drive it. If I'm right the undervoltage did the same as disconnecting the battery, meaning it cleared out some of the memory functions. So now you just have to drive it to let it learn again. As for the belt conversion, it would stop the squeal as the ribbed belt appears to be able to transfer enough power for the 3G. But if it is expensive it may not be worth it. Just don't leave the lights on or put a charger on it before you start. If the battery isn't very low it won't slip very much or very long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 5 Author Share Posted June 5 Yes, the ECU might be the problem, but I don't think there is anything for you to do but drive it. If I'm right the undervoltage did the same as disconnecting the battery, meaning it cleared out some of the memory functions. So now you just have to drive it to let it learn again. As for the belt conversion, it would stop the squeal as the ribbed belt appears to be able to transfer enough power for the 3G. But if it is expensive it may not be worth it. Just don't leave the lights on or put a charger on it before you start. If the battery isn't very low it won't slip very much or very long. For the belt, I've got another idea... I have a double belt pulley on my alternator that doesn't fit to my crankshaft pulley, cause it originally was designed to connect the A/C compressor. I will measure the offset to my crankshaft pulley and I let turn a new alternator pulley to get two V-belts on it. I think this will be the easiest way to get rid of this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 5 Share Posted June 5 For the belt, I've got another idea... I have a double belt pulley on my alternator that doesn't fit to my crankshaft pulley, cause it originally was designed to connect the A/C compressor. I will measure the offset to my crankshaft pulley and I let turn a new alternator pulley to get two V-belts on it. I think this will be the easiest way to get rid of this problem. In my experience the groove for the 2nd belt on the alternator pulley is thinner than the other groove. So my fear has been that you'll have different "gearing" ratios between the two belts. Maybe one sits higher in the pulley than the other. But if you can get it set up where you can run two belts that would be great. I had to make a pulley for Dad's truck to do that, and it did it by enlarging the 2nd groove on an aluminum pulley to take the same size belt as the other groove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 5 Author Share Posted June 5 In my experience the groove for the 2nd belt on the alternator pulley is thinner than the other groove. So my fear has been that you'll have different "gearing" ratios between the two belts. Maybe one sits higher in the pulley than the other. But if you can get it set up where you can run two belts that would be great. I had to make a pulley for Dad's truck to do that, and it did it by enlarging the 2nd groove on an aluminum pulley to take the same size belt as the other groove. Yes, I think it's cause it's normally connected to the smog pump. The free groove on the crankshaft pulley is connected to the A/C. So they won't fit naturally. But I have another question: Can I thrust my dipstick? I have bent the pipe to get it fit to my layout of the engine. I haven't shorten it. But it really shows nothing...I've done an oil change and added the amount described in the manual. The dipstick shows really nothing. Adding too much oil is bad. Adding too less not really better...so I think the best way tonfix it is to change the dipstick to a straight one out of the Ford Mustang. What do you think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 Yes, I think it's cause it's normally connected to the smog pump. The free groove on the crankshaft pulley is connected to the A/C. So they won't fit naturally. But I have another question: Can I thrust my dipstick? I have bent the pipe to get it fit to my layout of the engine. I haven't shorten it. But it really shows nothing...I've done an oil change and added the amount described in the manual. The dipstick shows really nothing. Adding too much oil is bad. Adding too less not really better...so I think the best way tonfix it is to change the dipstick to a straight one out of the Ford Mustang. What do you think? I don't know what you mean by "Can I thrust my dipstick?" But if you have a stock pickup pan and put the regular 6 quarts in on an oil change you should see it on the dipstick. So if you mean find another dipstick that will register "Full" after a change then yes, you should do that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted June 6 Share Posted June 6 I don't know what you mean by "Can I thrust my dipstick?" But if you have a stock pickup pan and put the regular 6 quarts in on an oil change you should see it on the dipstick. So if you mean find another dipstick that will register "Full" after a change then yes, you should do that. Read as 'Trust' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 Read as 'Trust' Oh...I see... Ahh...I'm searching for a special dipstick that adds some additional thrust, if needed for a better acceleration...also known as "boost-stick":nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 6 Author Share Posted June 6 I don't know what you mean by "Can I thrust my dipstick?" But if you have a stock pickup pan and put the regular 6 quarts in on an oil change you should see it on the dipstick. So if you mean find another dipstick that will register "Full" after a change then yes, you should do that. Ok. So I definitely should change my dipstick. I found one, made of stainless steel, that fits to Ford 260 289 302cui Small Block "D" Engine Length: 20.25" - 514mm Will this fit? They don't say something about the year of the engines... This is the setup...so a straight one will fit much better, I think. So, this is what my dipstick shows me, after an oil change with 6 quarts... Maybe it looses the oil inside the long, bent tube. Oilpressure is ok, so this is, why I don't trust this dipstick... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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