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Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT


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I may know just a little bit about securing a load and towing things! :nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

I studied for the CDL but didn’t take the test. Still, I learned a lot about loads and loading. Enough that I’m constantly amazed at what I see going down the road. :nabble_smiley_oh:

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I studied for the CDL but didn’t take the test. Still, I learned a lot about loads and loading. Enough that I’m constantly amazed at what I see going down the road. :nabble_smiley_oh:

We should all be frightened!

There's a lot to be said for driving a straight truck with a massive push bumper. 😉

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  • 1 month later...

I studied for the CDL but didn’t take the test. Still, I learned a lot about loads and loading. Enough that I’m constantly amazed at what I see going down the road. :nabble_smiley_oh:

Since yesterday my blower control works! You were right, Gary the resistance elements were blown....

Rockauto.com

Replacing my old one with this above, it works fine now.

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Three? Not Four? :nabble_anim_confused:

Hi, it's a long time ago, that I've posted here. I hope you're all well!

So as I've much to do with my work and the kids, there isn't much time left, to do the not really critical things on my bronco, like replacing the wiring harness or put leatherette on all plastic parts of the interior.

But since last Sunday, my bronco has shown a very interesting behavior...

It starts after I've forgotten to switch off the headlights for about two hours, last Sunday.

Starting the car some hours later caused the V-Belt sliding and squiking very loud.

Maybe caused by low battery capacity, my 130A alternator to charge the battery. The alternator is connected only with one common V-Belt.

It still slipped through, for the first two miles, or so...

After a while driving at relatively constant speed 45 mph, the engine starts to stutter, when trying to accelerate. It needs some cautious pedal push and release to get it working more normal and be able to accelerate.

Yesterday this behavior comes up again. Now the engine backfires, when trying to accelerate, based on driving at about 45 mph.

This behavior doesn't occur, when accelerating from the stand. It also doesn't occur, when driving at low speed inside the city.

I will start, reading out the error log, if there is something suspicious.

But I want to ask here, if someone have had such a behavior and may can tell me some possible suspects or an approach to start seeking for a defective part.

Thanks.

 

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Hi, it's a long time ago, that I've posted here. I hope you're all well!

So as I've much to do with my work and the kids, there isn't much time left, to do the not really critical things on my bronco, like replacing the wiring harness or put leatherette on all plastic parts of the interior.

But since last Sunday, my bronco has shown a very interesting behavior...

It starts after I've forgotten to switch off the headlights for about two hours, last Sunday.

Starting the car some hours later caused the V-Belt sliding and squiking very loud.

Maybe caused by low battery capacity, my 130A alternator to charge the battery. The alternator is connected only with one common V-Belt.

It still slipped through, for the first two miles, or so...

After a while driving at relatively constant speed 45 mph, the engine starts to stutter, when trying to accelerate. It needs some cautious pedal push and release to get it working more normal and be able to accelerate.

Yesterday this behavior comes up again. Now the engine backfires, when trying to accelerate, based on driving at about 45 mph.

This behavior doesn't occur, when accelerating from the stand. It also doesn't occur, when driving at low speed inside the city.

I will start, reading out the error log, if there is something suspicious.

But I want to ask here, if someone have had such a behavior and may can tell me some possible suspects or an approach to start seeking for a defective part.

Thanks.

I do not know that the symptoms you describe are connected. yet I do not know that they are not connected. but as in all cases. fix what you know first! the belt squeal is at least a clue of something even if it's only a loose belt. pull the belt and feel the alternators rotation then re -fit the belt. then measure the voltage produced while running, take notes, idle voltage, 1500rpm voltage, 2500rpm voltage. look for anomalies.

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I do not know that the symptoms you describe are connected. yet I do not know that they are not connected. but as in all cases. fix what you know first! the belt squeal is at least a clue of something even if it's only a loose belt. pull the belt and feel the alternators rotation then re -fit the belt. then measure the voltage produced while running, take notes, idle voltage, 1500rpm voltage, 2500rpm voltage. look for anomalies.

The belt squeal with one V-belt on a 3G is what I've always assumed would happen with a low battery. The 3G can put out more power than the belt is designed to transfer. If my memory serves, a single V-belt can transfer about 95 amps worth of power and the 3G was probably wanting to put out more than that. So the belt is the limiting factor and slips.

But once the battery voltage comes up and the regulator cuts the alternator's output down to less than ~95A then the belt is capable of transferring the needed power and quits slipping. However, you should check the belt to see if it was damaged, and ensure it is on tightly.

As for the miss, I don't think it is related - unless the voltage got low enough that the ECU forgot some settings. If that is the case then driving it should let it re-learn and not go so lean.

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The belt squeal with one V-belt on a 3G is what I've always assumed would happen with a low battery. The 3G can put out more power than the belt is designed to transfer. If my memory serves, a single V-belt can transfer about 95 amps worth of power and the 3G was probably wanting to put out more than that. So the belt is the limiting factor and slips.

But once the battery voltage comes up and the regulator cuts the alternator's output down to less than ~95A then the belt is capable of transferring the needed power and quits slipping. However, you should check the belt to see if it was damaged, and ensure it is on tightly.

As for the miss, I don't think it is related - unless the voltage got low enough that the ECU forgot some settings. If that is the case then driving it should let it re-learn and not go so lean.

106A on Ryan's video, but their are different belts (like the green power equipment ones) that are meant for more abuse, more traction, whatever...

Plus, you can always media blast the sheave if the LRC doesn't quite cut it.

Just don't keep tightening the belt.

You'll kill the front alternator bearing.

I don't know what to do in a case like Jeff's where the truck sits for weeks and the battery gets neglected. :nabble_anim_confused:

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