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Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT


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Thanks for the roses. Some phrases are out of Google translator...but I was good in English also at school. Currently I'm trying to learn French. But as I couldn't and haven't

to use it as much as English, it's a bit harder to learn and to keep for me.

About the window: Currently I've still the original harness inside. So the wiring should have an acceptable size. While adding my own circuits, shown above, I've mentioned that some wires are already corroded inside. If I'm not wrong there are also some connectors between the motor and the harness coming from the interior switch, that can be also corroded.

I've lubed every moving metal part from the tailgate window. I also have used silicone spray for the weatherstripping.

I haven't disassembled the motor/gearbox and also haven't checked the bearings.

As it seems, maybe the best way to check, will be supplying the motor with an external battery and short wires, to check how it behaves. If it's the same behavior, maybe the motor or the bearings are bad. Otherwise the harness is the source of the problem...

Btw: I'm still searching for the heater control unit, where also the tailgate window control is inside. Mine is defective. The heater motor only works on maximum speed. The other two speeds won't start the motor. I already have replaced the heater motor, it's a new one inside.

That's a big window and the same size motor as the front door windows.

My Bronco seems slow with a new motor in it.

As Gary said, clean and lube the weatherstripping.

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That's a big window and the same size motor as the front door windows.

My Bronco seems slow with a new motor in it.

As Gary said, clean and lube the weatherstripping.

So, I was off for some weeks. No time to work on the truck...

Regarding the window motor:

I have lubed everything well and also used silicone spray for the weatherstripping.

It's ok now. Works mutch better when the engine is running. So as the voltage raises, the current will drop, in my understanding...so I think the harness is also a part of the problem...

I think I've mentioned it before: the wires inside the tailgate were corroded. The copper inside is already greenish...

But another question...what is the maximum trunk capacity?

I've loaded 160lbs today...I only dare to drive about 30 mph...

20240203_111759.jpg.b7b423c3576818f2ef6ea179869ff743.jpg

20240203_111817.jpg.3f1b633c0cfaa6894556077d0936cf8c.jpg

:nabble_smiley_whistling:

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So, I was off for some weeks. No time to work on the truck...

Regarding the window motor:

I have lubed everything well and also used silicone spray for the weatherstripping.

It's ok now. Works mutch better when the engine is running. So as the voltage raises, the current will drop, in my understanding...so I think the harness is also a part of the problem...

I think I've mentioned it before: the wires inside the tailgate were corroded. The copper inside is already greenish...

But another question...what is the maximum trunk capacity?

I've loaded 160lbs today...I only dare to drive about 30 mph...

:nabble_smiley_whistling:

You're metric.

You're also off by a decimal point.

The broncos carrying capacity can be found on the door sticker.

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You're metric.

You're also off by a decimal point.

The broncos carrying capacity can be found on the door sticker.

Doh!

On my phone phone it looks like you're showing the driveway pavers as your cargo! :nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

Still, subtract tare weight from GWVR/C

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So, I was off for some weeks. No time to work on the truck...

Regarding the window motor:

I have lubed everything well and also used silicone spray for the weatherstripping.

It's ok now. Works mutch better when the engine is running. So as the voltage raises, the current will drop, in my understanding...so I think the harness is also a part of the problem...

I think I've mentioned it before: the wires inside the tailgate were corroded. The copper inside is already greenish...

But another question...what is the maximum trunk capacity?

I've loaded 160lbs today...I only dare to drive about 30 mph...

:nabble_smiley_whistling:

I'm pretty sure the current will raise when the voltage raises. It worked that way for my HVAC blower motor. But since power = voltage x current the power goes up a lot faster than the voltage goes up.

For example:

  • Voltage to motor @ 8.4v due to old wiring and current was 8.6A for 72 watts

  • Voltage to motor @ 13.0 volts because I jumpered around the trucks wiring and the current was 14.3 amps, which calculates to 186 watts. And there was a huge difference in air flow.

So if your wiring is bad you might want to consider using it to trigger a relay that pulls power from a new, larger, wire from the battery via a fuse. That's what I did for the blower motor and it made a big difference.

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Doh!

On my phone phone it looks like you're showing the driveway pavers as your cargo! :nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

Still, subtract tare weight from GWVR/C

That's the way I "read" the picture - driveway pavers as the load. And I'm with your earlier statement, he's off a factor of 10 as that's way more than 160 lbs.

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That's the way I "read" the picture - driveway pavers as the load. And I'm with your earlier statement, he's off a factor of 10 as that's way more than 160 lbs.

I think he's just showing the flattened rear tyre.

But, AGAIN, look at the door sticker for proper inflation pressures.

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You're metric.

You're also off by a decimal point.

The broncos carrying capacity can be found on the door sticker.

Oh...I see...the Cargo has a weight of 1,060 lbs...

I try to use imperial units, to make it easier for you...:nabble_smiley_happy:

20240203_140037.jpg.6b7e023a644b2ae86e43ed0bf2c6378e.jpg

So, i don't really understand...Google says the GVWR is the total maximum weight of the vehicle...I thought before, this value is the weight of the vehicle itself...

But asking Google again, I see in my vehicle registration, that the empty weight is 2300kg...if I subtract it now from 2721kg, I'll get only 421 kg maximum load...I've added 480kg in the trunk...:nabble_anim_confused:

20240203_141122.jpg.aaad8a1c39b2b2a521d9d1e110dfc0bc.jpg

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I'm pretty sure the current will raise when the voltage raises. It worked that way for my HVAC blower motor. But since power = voltage x current the power goes up a lot faster than the voltage goes up.

For example:

  • Voltage to motor @ 8.4v due to old wiring and current was 8.6A for 72 watts

  • Voltage to motor @ 13.0 volts because I jumpered around the trucks wiring and the current was 14.3 amps, which calculates to 186 watts. And there was a huge difference in air flow.

So if your wiring is bad you might want to consider using it to trigger a relay that pulls power from a new, larger, wire from the battery via a fuse. That's what I did for the blower motor and it made a big difference.

Hmm...ok...that's also possible. Adding some more volts will take the motor to generate more power...it's logical...the motors not having any control circuits that keeps the power constant.

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Oh...I see...the Cargo has a weight of 1,060 lbs...

I try to use imperial units, to make it easier for you...:nabble_smiley_happy:

So, i don't really understand...Google says the GVWR is the total maximum weight of the vehicle...I thought before, this value is the weight of the vehicle itself...

But asking Google again, I see in my vehicle registration, that the empty weight is 2300kg...if I subtract it now from 2721kg, I'll get only 421 kg maximum load...I've added 480kg in the trunk...:nabble_anim_confused:

When you do this, pump your tires to the max inflation pressure.

The truck won't squirm around and possibly roll the tire off the rim

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