ArdWrknTrk Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Thanks Jim, the option to unsubscribe isn't there, I tried to unassign earlier using edit. Maybe it will take a bit to take effect. Edit: Typo That's odd I'm sure Gary can help when he gets back from church Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 That's odd I'm sure Gary can help when he gets back from church Looks like it's working! Sorry for the hijack! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Looks like it's working! Sorry for the hijack! Dane - We had this one set up to notify people, usually the last person who posted, by email. Doesn't have anything to do with subscribing to the thread. So you should get an email notification when I post, which will prove my point. But then I'll edit my post to turn off "assignments", which anyone can do when posting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 8 Share Posted January 8 Dane - We had this one set up to notify people, usually the last person who posted, by email. Doesn't have anything to do with subscribing to the thread. So you should get an email notification when I post, which will prove my point. But then I'll edit my post to turn off "assignments", which anyone can do when posting. OK, thanks Gary! Figured I got fumble fingered! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 Dane - We had this one set up to notify people, usually the last person who posted, by email. Doesn't have anything to do with subscribing to the thread. So you should get an email notification when I post, which will prove my point. But then I'll edit my post to turn off "assignments", which anyone can do when posting. Today I've got repaired my tailgate window key-switch. I've combined it with my remote, to be sure I can open the window, also when the batteries have no more power. So as I've lost the bracket and have had to fine a solution: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Today I've got repaired my tailgate window key-switch. I've combined it with my remote, to be sure I can open the window, also when the batteries have no more power. So as I've lost the bracket and have had to fine a solution: Wow! That's a lot of circuitry for one window. But, well done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 Wow! That's a lot of circuitry for one window. But, well done! Yes, my speech....in the next steps, when I'll do a complete re-wiring, I will reduce the amount of cables needed. I've done this already on my CJ7. I've replaced all cables with double insulated cables, distribution boxes and eliminated all connectors where possible. I also have added more relays to get rid of switches, that have applied high power. The electronics of the Bronco are more complex as my jeep are, but still very simple. So this should also be possible in a manageable amount of time. By the way...my tailgate window is moving very slowly...could this be matter of contact resistance or is it more common that the motor has a lack of power? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Yes, my speech....in the next steps, when I'll do a complete re-wiring, I will reduce the amount of cables needed. I've done this already on my CJ7. I've replaced all cables with double insulated cables, distribution boxes and eliminated all connectors where possible. I also have added more relays to get rid of switches, that have applied high power. The electronics of the Bronco are more complex as my jeep are, but still very simple. So this should also be possible in a manageable amount of time. By the way...my tailgate window is moving very slowly...could this be matter of contact resistance or is it more common that the motor has a lack of power? Your speech is excellent! My best German is jein, so I'm in awe of you. Yes, relays can really help out the Bullnose trucks. I didn't simplify Big Blue, but I'm sure all of the relays I added make him much more reliable AND give the accessories, like the headlights and HVAC fan, a lot more power. On the window, assuming that you have good-sized wire to it, I'd guess it is a combination of things. Like maybe a motor needing lubricated, or maybe even new bearings as old bearings can let the armature drag on the field. You might look for shiny spot on the armature that indicates it is dragging. What about the window mechanism? Is it well lubed? Have you used silicone spray on the weatherstripping? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 Your speech is excellent! My best German is jein, so I'm in awe of you. Yes, relays can really help out the Bullnose trucks. I didn't simplify Big Blue, but I'm sure all of the relays I added make him much more reliable AND give the accessories, like the headlights and HVAC fan, a lot more power. On the window, assuming that you have good-sized wire to it, I'd guess it is a combination of things. Like maybe a motor needing lubricated, or maybe even new bearings as old bearings can let the armature drag on the field. You might look for shiny spot on the armature that indicates it is dragging. What about the window mechanism? Is it well lubed? Have you used silicone spray on the weatherstripping? Thanks for the roses. Some phrases are out of Google translator...but I was good in English also at school. Currently I'm trying to learn French. But as I couldn't and haven't to use it as much as English, it's a bit harder to learn and to keep for me. About the window: Currently I've still the original harness inside. So the wiring should have an acceptable size. While adding my own circuits, shown above, I've mentioned that some wires are already corroded inside. If I'm not wrong there are also some connectors between the motor and the harness coming from the interior switch, that can be also corroded. I've lubed every moving metal part from the tailgate window. I also have used silicone spray for the weatherstripping. I haven't disassembled the motor/gearbox and also haven't checked the bearings. As it seems, maybe the best way to check, will be supplying the motor with an external battery and short wires, to check how it behaves. If it's the same behavior, maybe the motor or the bearings are bad. Otherwise the harness is the source of the problem... Btw: I'm still searching for the heater control unit, where also the tailgate window control is inside. Mine is defective. The heater motor only works on maximum speed. The other two speeds won't start the motor. I already have replaced the heater motor, it's a new one inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 14 Share Posted January 14 Thanks for the roses. Some phrases are out of Google translator...but I was good in English also at school. Currently I'm trying to learn French. But as I couldn't and haven't to use it as much as English, it's a bit harder to learn and to keep for me. About the window: Currently I've still the original harness inside. So the wiring should have an acceptable size. While adding my own circuits, shown above, I've mentioned that some wires are already corroded inside. If I'm not wrong there are also some connectors between the motor and the harness coming from the interior switch, that can be also corroded. I've lubed every moving metal part from the tailgate window. I also have used silicone spray for the weatherstripping. I haven't disassembled the motor/gearbox and also haven't checked the bearings. As it seems, maybe the best way to check, will be supplying the motor with an external battery and short wires, to check how it behaves. If it's the same behavior, maybe the motor or the bearings are bad. Otherwise the harness is the source of the problem... Btw: I'm still searching for the heater control unit, where also the tailgate window control is inside. Mine is defective. The heater motor only works on maximum speed. The other two speeds won't start the motor. I already have replaced the heater motor, it's a new one inside. Yes, I think I'd apply power directly to the motor and see how it works with full power. But I'd not expect it to work "as new" since it isn't. However you can usually help a motor by cleaning the commutator strips, checking the brushes, lubing the bearings, and checking for dragging. On the HVAC control, are you sure the problem is the control? Have you confirmed that the thermal limiter isn't blown? In the schematic below you can see the thermal limiter in the resistor pack. It does not apply to High, but does apply to the other speeds. So if it is blown you'd have the symptoms you mentioned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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