ReneH Posted July 2, 2023 Author Share Posted July 2, 2023 The EEC should bring the idle back up to the set point when you put the vehicle in gear. And yes, the torque converter is loading the engine then. But the computer should compensate. So, you are ok with what you have? It isn't shaking and you like the idle RPM? If so then I'd say that is success. Yes, I would say it's a success. I have to test and drive some miles before knowing it fore sure...but the adjustment of the TPS was necessary in my opinion. Cause whithout today there was the smell of gasoline in the air when driving. As I have learned in the past, the TPS voltage is very sensitive for the air/fuel mix and should be close to 0.9 to 1.0 volts in minimum and 4.5 in maximum. The EEC doesn't regulate the rpm up in my case when going from P to N or D...more to the opposite... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 2, 2023 Share Posted July 2, 2023 Yes, I would say it's a success. I have to test and drive some miles before knowing it fore sure...but the adjustment of the TPS was necessary in my opinion. Cause whithout today there was the smell of gasoline in the air when driving. As I have learned in the past, the TPS voltage is very sensitive for the air/fuel mix and should be close to 0.9 to 1.0 volts in minimum and 4.5 in maximum. The EEC doesn't regulate the rpm up in my case when going from P to N or D...more to the opposite... I'm surprised that the EEC-IV doesn't keep the idle RPM constant. It does in the EEC-V system. But if you are happy then I'm happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 3, 2023 Author Share Posted July 3, 2023 I'm surprised that the EEC-IV doesn't keep the idle RPM constant. It does in the EEC-V system. But if you are happy then I'm happy. But it seems a fact. All time I'll change from P to D or R, the rpm goes down. In P it has the highest value, in N slightly less...or maybe even the same... So next test drive we'll see, if I'm happy... What do you think about my TPS values? Are they in a good range? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 3, 2023 Author Share Posted July 3, 2023 But it seems a fact. All time I'll change from P to D or R, the rpm goes down. In P it has the highest value, in N slightly less...or maybe even the same... So next test drive we'll see, if I'm happy... What do you think about my TPS values? Are they in a good range? I currently thinking about to change the differential fluid in both axles...is 75W-140 usable for both? I will have a better feeling about the long distance (only long in German dimensions ) to drive for the holidays.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 3, 2023 Share Posted July 3, 2023 I currently thinking about to change the differential fluid in both axles...is 75W-140 usable for both? I will have a better feeling about the long distance (only long in German dimensions ) to drive for the holidays.. The owner's manual says "ESW-M2C105-A" for both axles, and "Add 4 ounces of EST-M2C118-A (friction modifier Part No. C8AZ-19B546-A) for complete refill of Traction-Lok or Limited Slip rear axles". Basically ESW-M2C105-A is an 80W-90 that meets GL-5 specs. However, most manufacturers now sell 75W-90 or 75W-140, both of which meet GL-5 specs. I use synthetic 75W-90. 75W-140 would work but it would be stiffer in cold weather. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 3, 2023 Share Posted July 3, 2023 What do you think about my TPS values? Are they in a good range? Missed this. But from what little I know about TPS values those look good. However, Bill or others would be better to answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 3, 2023 Author Share Posted July 3, 2023 The owner's manual says "ESW-M2C105-A" for both axles, and "Add 4 ounces of EST-M2C118-A (friction modifier Part No. C8AZ-19B546-A) for complete refill of Traction-Lok or Limited Slip rear axles". Basically ESW-M2C105-A is an 80W-90 that meets GL-5 specs. However, most manufacturers now sell 75W-90 or 75W-140, both of which meet GL-5 specs. I use synthetic 75W-90. 75W-140 would work but it would be stiffer in cold weather. Ok, thanks. So I'll also use 75W-90. Another question...nothing such deep technical. As some of you know, my truck has the 1994 door panels. As driving both side squiking...it's horrible! As the most of the fastener holders in the panel are broken, I will use screws. As I'm planning to cover all plastic parts with foam and leatherette, some torx screws will look fine. But I have a problem that the panels itself don't seem to fit 100 percent or be already bent by the sun. It seems that the inside weather strip of the glass is only clipped inside the panel and not inside the metal of the door...I have the weather strip for the 80th and 90th door panels. Which should I use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted July 3, 2023 Author Share Posted July 3, 2023 The owner's manual says "ESW-M2C105-A" for both axles, and "Add 4 ounces of EST-M2C118-A (friction modifier Part No. C8AZ-19B546-A) for complete refill of Traction-Lok or Limited Slip rear axles". Basically ESW-M2C105-A is an 80W-90 that meets GL-5 specs. However, most manufacturers now sell 75W-90 or 75W-140, both of which meet GL-5 specs. I use synthetic 75W-90. 75W-140 would work but it would be stiffer in cold weather. I have 3 liters of 75W-90 in my stock. Will this be enough for both differentials? Has someone a link for me about the draining and refilling? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted July 3, 2023 Share Posted July 3, 2023 Ok, thanks. So I'll also use 75W-90. Another question...nothing such deep technical. As some of you know, my truck has the 1994 door panels. As driving both side squiking...it's horrible! As the most of the fastener holders in the panel are broken, I will use screws. As I'm planning to cover all plastic parts with foam and leatherette, some torx screws will look fine. But I have a problem that the panels itself don't seem to fit 100 percent or be already bent by the sun. It seems that the inside weather strip of the glass is only clipped inside the panel and not inside the metal of the door...I have the weather strip for the 80th and 90th door panels. Which should I use? Rene, those same door panels on my 92 Bronco are the noisiest panels I have ever seen. The passenger side was so bad on a trip I stuffed rolled up napkins in it to quiet it down. When I got home I pulled that panel and could see where it was rubbing, white dust on the door. I trimmed that panel a lot. I used shears in a couple of spots it was so bad, then a Dremel tool. It took putting the panel on and off a lot to check the trimming I did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 3, 2023 Share Posted July 3, 2023 I have 3 liters of 75W-90 in my stock. Will this be enough for both differentials? Has someone a link for me about the draining and refilling? No, 3 liters won't be enough, as you can see from the page below from your 1986 owner's manual. By the way, you can see that by going to the Manuals & Literature page in the menu. As for draining and refilling, on the front diff I don't think there is a drain plug and if that is the case you'll need a suction gun. And when I do it I graft a piece of small hose to the larger hose of the gun in order to reach to the bottom of the case. On the rear axle, if you have an 8.8" it'll have a rear cover you can remove to drain it, but you'll also need a gasket. However the 9" doesn't have a rear cover and you'll need the suction gun again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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