ArdWrknTrk Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Good find on the chain, Jim. And since RA will ship to Germany the price difference is moot. As for the lower steering shaft, your approach is a great one - for our application. That's because our trucks have a very straight shot from the steering column to the steering gear so there's no real need for two u-joints to smooth out the rotational speed. But in some applications there's quite an angle between the steering column and the box so using just one u-joint will give an odd speed-up/slow-down in the steering as the steering wheel is rotated at a constant speed. Gary, the lower shaft has U-joints on both ends. (the one at the sector box is covered by the plastic shroud) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Gary, the lower shaft has U-joints on both ends. (the one at the sector box is covered by the plastic shroud) Oops, my bad! Thanks, Jim. And please see my note to you on the other thread about creating a how-to. I'm happy to do the work if I have several pics or links thereunto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted November 12, 2023 Author Share Posted November 12, 2023 Gary, the lower shaft has U-joints on both ends. (the one at the sector box is covered by the plastic shroud) Hi, Jim. Thanks for the find on rockauto.com. I'll check what's the better source including shipping. Regarding the shaft, it's a nice solution! But I'll stay first with my idea and maybe switch to a borgeson shaft in some years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 12, 2023 Share Posted November 12, 2023 Hi, Jim. Thanks for the find on rockauto.com. I'll check what's the better source including shipping. Regarding the shaft, it's a nice solution! But I'll stay first with my idea and maybe switch to a borgeson shaft in some years. For me the difference between $30 and $300 for the Borgenson shaft was a deal breaker. I needed to do something about my rag joint and had more time than money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted November 12, 2023 Author Share Posted November 12, 2023 For me the difference between $30 and $300 for the Borgenson shaft was a deal breaker. I needed to do something about my rag joint and had more time than money. I know what you mean! In my case I haven't much of both...neither time nor money... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted November 21, 2023 Author Share Posted November 21, 2023 I know what you mean! In my case I haven't much of both...neither time nor money... So last weekend, I've installed the stock throttle body of the 351W, that I've bought refurbished from Autoline. I've already done a basic setup and have to do Ford's idle adjustment procedure, the following weekend, as described here in the shop manual. Another positive effect is, that the whistling noise is gone! I've also measured my coolant and air charge temperature sensors, cause I have also bought new ones. The resistance was the same as on the installed ones when all at the same temperature. I have changed the coolant temperature sensor, cause the one from 1994 fits much better from the smaller size of the connector. But it seems that this have made no changes. I still have the problem to start the car when it's cold. It's only possible by pressing the pedal slightly and hold the rpm between 1,000 and 1,500 for some seconds. It appears most when the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 So last weekend, I've installed the stock throttle body of the 351W, that I've bought refurbished from Autoline. I've already done a basic setup and have to do Ford's idle adjustment procedure, the following weekend, as described here in the shop manual. Another positive effect is, that the whistling noise is gone! I've also measured my coolant and air charge temperature sensors, cause I have also bought new ones. The resistance was the same as on the installed ones when all at the same temperature. I have changed the coolant temperature sensor, cause the one from 1994 fits much better from the smaller size of the connector. But it seems that this have made no changes. I still have the problem to start the car when it's cold. It's only possible by pressing the pedal slightly and hold the rpm between 1,000 and 1,500 for some seconds. It appears most when the ambient temperature is below 10 degrees Celsius. Yippee! Glad the whistling is gone. That's a step in the right direction. And while you still have the cold-start problem, adjusting the idle may help that. But are you saying that you have to hold the idle up to 1000+ RPM? The ECU isn't doing that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted November 21, 2023 Author Share Posted November 21, 2023 Yippee! Glad the whistling is gone. That's a step in the right direction. And while you still have the cold-start problem, adjusting the idle may help that. But are you saying that you have to hold the idle up to 1000+ RPM? The ECU isn't doing that? Yes, it is... That are also my thoughts. Yes, when the engine is below about 10 degrees Celsius, I'm unable to start it without pressing and holding slightly on the pedal. When the engine or ambient is warmer, it is no problem. Maybe I should also change the air temperature sensor, only to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 Yes, it is... That are also my thoughts. Yes, when the engine is below about 10 degrees Celsius, I'm unable to start it without pressing and holding slightly on the pedal. When the engine or ambient is warmer, it is no problem. Maybe I should also change the air temperature sensor, only to be sure. The starting problem seems to be associated with the throttle position. At cold temps it takes a rich mix to start the engine, but if the TPS is telling the ECU that the throttle is closed more than it really is then maybe the ECU won't give it enough fuel to start? Hopefully the adjustment this weekend will fix that. If not then maybe it is time to replace the ACT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 The starting problem seems to be associated with the throttle position. At cold temps it takes a rich mix to start the engine, but if the TPS is telling the ECU that the throttle is closed more than it really is then maybe the ECU won't give it enough fuel to start? Hopefully the adjustment this weekend will fix that. If not then maybe it is time to replace the ACT? Maybe i don't understand these early fuel injection systems, but shouldn't the idle air control valve be able to get the rpms up above 1k? The difference between intake air temp and coolant temperature should be what the computer uses to set injector pulse width. Is this year using a coolant heated throttle body? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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