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Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT


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So, as I see, both of you also have build their own tools...:nabble_smiley_happy:

Mine looks like the small brother of Gary's one...

First I have to get my CJ7 ready again. My HEI distributor had loosen a screw of the finger and damaged the cap. After getting a replacement also the HAL sensor was down. Also replaced...now it won't fire on every revolution at one output...I've decided to get back to the stock distributor...

After finishing this, I'll get out the transfer case of the Bronco for overhaul. So, I may also find the part on my C6 that leaks a bit, when there is more space.

There is always something that needs this or that, and many times there's no tool available to fix it. But if you have the tools with which to make tools, you win. The lathe, mill, welder, and grinder come in very handy. :nabble_smiley_wink:

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There is always something that needs this or that, and many times there's no tool available to fix it. But if you have the tools with which to make tools, you win. The lathe, mill, welder, and grinder come in very handy. :nabble_smiley_wink:

You're right!

It's like the former owner of my bronco....

He realized that he has two bent connection rods, bit no new rods in stock... so he grinded the pistons that they can pass the counterweights of the crankshaft...:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

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You're right!

It's like the former owner of my bronco....

He realized that he has two bent connection rods, bit no new rods in stock... so he grinded the pistons that they can pass the counterweights of the crankshaft...:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

Yesterday I've parked the Bronco outside at about 8 degrees Celsius for over 10 hours...as I want to start, the engine won't start at all. Only pressing the pedal and hold the rpm at about 1,500 for a minute, I've got it to start and idle.

I definitely have to solve this problem...winter is coming...:nabble_smiley_what:

Does anyone have an idea where to start searching?

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Yesterday I've parked the Bronco outside at about 8 degrees Celsius for over 10 hours...as I want to start, the engine won't start at all. Only pressing the pedal and hold the rpm at about 1,500 for a minute, I've got it to start and idle.

I definitely have to solve this problem...winter is coming...:nabble_smiley_what:

Does anyone have an idea where to start searching?

Sorry, I missed this.

I'd guess that either your air charge temp (ACT) or engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor is bad. That would mean that the ECU doesn't know how cold it is and that it isn't adding enough fuel to the mix to get the engine to run.

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Sorry, I missed this.

I'd guess that either your air charge temp (ACT) or engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor is bad. That would mean that the ECU doesn't know how cold it is and that it isn't adding enough fuel to the mix to get the engine to run.

That's also my thought. :nabble_smiley_happy:

I have added some to my next basket.

I also have added a throttle body...what do you think? Does this make sense?

Screenshot_20231110_150526_Chrome.thumb.jpg.0e2261db62344c832d60f463fb0fbfa9.jpg

I'm also not sure, if I need additional parts for the overhaul of my transfer case...

I plan to change the plenum in the next years to a Holly Hi-RAM...I think this could work better with SEFI, cause of the geometry and the position of the injectors...but I don't know if I want to spent such an amount of money within the next two years...

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That's also my thought. :nabble_smiley_happy:

I have added some to my next basket.

I also have added a throttle body...what do you think? Does this make sense?

I'm also not sure, if I need additional parts for the overhaul of my transfer case...

I plan to change the plenum in the next years to a Holly Hi-RAM...I think this could work better with SEFI, cause of the geometry and the position of the injectors...but I don't know if I want to spent such an amount of money within the next two years...

I think that makes sense, except for the transfer case. First, do you know what brand and model transfer case those parts are for? I ask because both the BW1345 and the N208 were used in '86. And they take different parts.

Also, you might consider replacing the chain in your transfer case. They can stretch and while you are there would be a good time to do it.

But I'm still not sure I understand your desire to replace the throttle body. Is this due to the noise you are hearing?

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I think that makes sense, except for the transfer case. First, do you know what brand and model transfer case those parts are for? I ask because both the BW1345 and the N208 were used in '86. And they take different parts.

Also, you might consider replacing the chain in your transfer case. They can stretch and while you are there would be a good time to do it.

But I'm still not sure I understand your desire to replace the throttle body. Is this due to the noise you are hearing?

Oh...good objection...I haven't checked in real, what transfer case I have...only from an image compared with my memory.:nabble_anim_crazy:

I will also take care of the chain, when I know my TC model...

About the throttle body, the noise is one point...another is the still sawing rpm...but maybe it's also caused by one of the sensors...

 

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Oh...good objection...I haven't checked in real, what transfer case I have...only from an image compared with my memory.:nabble_anim_crazy:

I will also take care of the chain, when I know my TC model...

About the throttle body, the noise is one point...another is the still sawing rpm...but maybe it's also caused by one of the sensors...

Rene' a couple of items, first, if you are ordering the 351 throttle body, it should have more bypass air flow than the 302 one. This should help with the surging idle. The other is the sensors, I have found that the Ford EFI system occasionally has issues with aftermarket sensors (my son had a real problem with a Standard brand throttle position sensor) his was a 1986 F150.

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Rene' a couple of items, first, if you are ordering the 351 throttle body, it should have more bypass air flow than the 302 one. This should help with the surging idle. The other is the sensors, I have found that the Ford EFI system occasionally has issues with aftermarket sensors (my son had a real problem with a Standard brand throttle position sensor) his was a 1986 F150.

Hi Bill.

Ok...good tip. I already use the 1994 IAC on my TB.

Regarding the TB of the 351, you mean that I should change mine, also when I plan to change the whole intake set in some years?

For the price at Rockauto.com, I think it's applicable for the remaining time.

Regarding the sensors...can you recommend a brand?

I have bought three different TPS as restoring the engine. For only one, I was able to set it into the correct range on my TB. So maybe this is what you mean...

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Hi Bill.

Ok...good tip. I already use the 1994 IAC on my TB.

Regarding the TB of the 351, you mean that I should change mine, also when I plan to change the whole intake set in some years?

For the price at Rockauto.com, I think it's applicable for the remaining time.

Regarding the sensors...can you recommend a brand?

I have bought three different TPS as restoring the engine. For only one, I was able to set it into the correct range on my TB. So maybe this is what you mean...

I will only use Motorcraft sensors on my Fords, even ordered O2 sensors for my wife's 2011 Flex from Motorcraft.

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