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Restore of my 1986 Bronco XLT


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Today is a good day. Rockauto.com has answered. As they are writing in German, I've used Google translator:

"Good day,

We're sorry you're having a problem with your order. You have discovered an error in our catalog. Since the problem is our fault, we would like to offer you a full refund for the cost of the goods and associated shipping costs.

We will update our catalogs for this drum set, thanks to your help.

We will issue a refund without a return within the next 3 business days. We will email you once the refund has been issued.

We apologize for the inconvenience.":nabble_anim_claps:

Wonderful!!!!!! :nabble_anim_jump:

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Wonderful!!!!!! :nabble_anim_jump:

Yesterday I've changed the drums.

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You see, there is a big difference...I haven't found this difference in the manuals or the part lists...but I may only haven't searched for the right numbers...there also must be two different hubs available for the 8.8 axle...or may the wrong drums are fit to the 9" axle? Despite the hub hole, everything seems nearly identical...

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Yesterday I've changed the drums.

You see, there is a big difference...I haven't found this difference in the manuals or the part lists...but I may only haven't searched for the right numbers...there also must be two different hubs available for the 8.8 axle...or may the wrong drums are fit to the 9" axle? Despite the hub hole, everything seems nearly identical...

Looking at the Rear Hub & Drum Parts Lists the Bronco falls into three parts lists and uses two different drums:

  • 1980/83: PL #3 and E4TZ-B

  • 1984/86: PL #18 and E4TZ-B

  • 1987/thru at least 89: PL #29 and E7TZ-B

That implies that since the drum changed in 1987 that the hole size might have changed. However, if you look at the rear axle parts lists you'll find that there were 4 different axles used in the 8.8" assemblies, and there's no information on the size of that center raised area in the catalog for any of those axles.

So I can't answer your question. But if there was a change it was after the Bullnose era as all Bullnose Broncos use the same rear drums.

Anyway, I'm sure glad you got the right drums! How does it drive with them?

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Looking at the Rear Hub & Drum Parts Lists the Bronco falls into three parts lists and uses two different drums:

  • 1980/83: PL #3 and E4TZ-B

  • 1984/86: PL #18 and E4TZ-B

  • 1987/thru at least 89: PL #29 and E7TZ-B

That implies that since the drum changed in 1987 that the hole size might have changed. However, if you look at the rear axle parts lists you'll find that there were 4 different axles used in the 8.8" assemblies, and there's no information on the size of that center raised area in the catalog for any of those axles.

So I can't answer your question. But if there was a change it was after the Bullnose era as all Bullnose Broncos use the same rear drums.

Anyway, I'm sure glad you got the right drums! How does it drive with them?

Hmm...so rockauto.com may have listed the drums for the wrong years...

It's a good question...in my opinion the deep rolling sound got louder again after changing back to the correct drums...I'll do a measurement of the roundness while mounted next weekend. In the end maybe my centering of the wrong drums was better than the original drums...:nabble_head-rotfl-57x22_orig:

I still have some further questions, that I'll post these days...

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Looking at the Rear Hub & Drum Parts Lists the Bronco falls into three parts lists and uses two different drums:

  • 1980/83: PL #3 and E4TZ-B

  • 1984/86: PL #18 and E4TZ-B

  • 1987/thru at least 89: PL #29 and E7TZ-B

That implies that since the drum changed in 1987 that the hole size might have changed. However, if you look at the rear axle parts lists you'll find that there were 4 different axles used in the 8.8" assemblies, and there's no information on the size of that center raised area in the catalog for any of those axles.

So I can't answer your question. But if there was a change it was after the Bullnose era as all Bullnose Broncos use the same rear drums.

Anyway, I'm sure glad you got the right drums! How does it drive with them?

Ok, I'll try to list some things that still to be solved or optimized in my opinion:

1. Engine

It's still a bit shaking at about 1,000 rpm.

At more or also less, it's running more smooth. I think about the experiment with the timing. Currently I'm at about 12 deg BTDC. I could try 10 or even 14 degrees.

Another suspect is still the throttle body...

2. Door adjustment

I've tried to adjust the doors, after changing the seals. The adjustment gets better, but the doors won't fit very good. As far as I know, I'm already in the limits of the ability of the adjustment...

3. Spare parts

I'm still searching for an intact horn pad with cruise control.

The heater control panel. As I have removed my A/C, I'm interested in a panel without A/C function, if this is possible to add.

In longer term (or for an unbeatable price), I'm also searching for a gearbox with overdrive, including the needed components to fit it into my truck.

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Ok, I'll try to list some things that still to be solved or optimized in my opinion:

1. Engine

It's still a bit shaking at about 1,000 rpm.

At more or also less, it's running more smooth. I think about the experiment with the timing. Currently I'm at about 12 deg BTDC. I could try 10 or even 14 degrees.

Another suspect is still the throttle body...

2. Door adjustment

I've tried to adjust the doors, after changing the seals. The adjustment gets better, but the doors won't fit very good. As far as I know, I'm already in the limits of the ability of the adjustment...

3. Spare parts

I'm still searching for an intact horn pad with cruise control.

The heater control panel. As I have removed my A/C, I'm interested in a panel without A/C function, if this is possible to add.

In longer term (or for an unbeatable price), I'm also searching for a gearbox with overdrive, including the needed components to fit it into my truck.

I doubt changing the timing will fix the shaking, but it is worth a try as it won’t cost anything.

I think what I’d do is monitor the AFR at the RPM where the shaking occurs. See if something is causing the AFR to go wonky at that point. If not then I doubt it is the throttle body.

On the transmission, are you looking for a manual or automatic?

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I doubt changing the timing will fix the shaking, but it is worth a try as it won’t cost anything.

I think what I’d do is monitor the AFR at the RPM where the shaking occurs. See if something is causing the AFR to go wonky at that point. If not then I doubt it is the throttle body.

On the transmission, are you looking for a manual or automatic?

Hmm...ok...so maybe I'll wait with this...

What's the best way to monitor the AFR?

I'm looking for an automatic transmission.

As using the 351W ECU, I think it's able to control the E4OD?

I can get one here in Germany for about 850 Euro including the torque converter, but without information if it works...

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Hmm...ok...so maybe I'll wait with this...

What's the best way to monitor the AFR?

I'm looking for an automatic transmission.

As using the 351W ECU, I think it's able to control the E4OD?

I can get one here in Germany for about 850 Euro including the torque converter, but without information if it works...

I'm running an Innovate wideband, and it works well. But you might be interested in this thread on AFR Meter Recommends.

As for a transmission, an E4OD takes a computer to control it, and the EEC-IV ECU from a Bullnose truck won't do it. The E4OD wasn't introduced until 1989 so none of the previous computers had the ability to control it.

However you can get stand-alone controllers, like a Baughman, that don't rely on the EFI system. That would be the best bet for you I'd think.

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I'm running an Innovate wideband, and it works well. But you might be interested in this thread on AFR Meter Recommends.

As for a transmission, an E4OD takes a computer to control it, and the EEC-IV ECU from a Bullnose truck won't do it. The E4OD wasn't introduced until 1989 so none of the previous computers had the ability to control it.

However you can get stand-alone controllers, like a Baughman, that don't rely on the EFI system. That would be the best bet for you I'd think.

Ok, I'll read the recommendation. This is what I'm searching for.

About the E4OD...I have a 1989 351W ECU...on the pin-out list, there are pins for the E4OD...or do I understand this list wrong?

Another thing: I have noticed, that I can pull and push the rear axles some millimeters out and in...is this common? I was a bit astonished, that the whole wheel, breaks and the axle itself is fixed only with this small C-clip inside the differential...

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Ok, I'll read the recommendation. This is what I'm searching for.

About the E4OD...I have a 1989 351W ECU...on the pin-out list, there are pins for the E4OD...or do I understand this list wrong?

Another thing: I have noticed, that I can pull and push the rear axles some millimeters out and in...is this common? I was a bit astonished, that the whole wheel, breaks and the axle itself is fixed only with this small C-clip inside the differential...

I mis-typed - the E4OD came out in '89, and I've updated the previous post.

So if you have an '89 ECU it might have the ability to control an E4OD. However, according to our documentation the E4OD wasn't used in the Bronco that year. So what did your ECU come out of? Do you have the numbers off of it so I can look it up?

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