Gary Lewis Posted September 22, 2023 Share Posted September 22, 2023 Hi Gary, so we are pretty close, right now. Thinking in distances of some people living in the USA, you are as near as the next supermarket... In German distances it's the way half through the whole country. Ok, but haven't you said the 1994 master cylinder, I've bought, has a screw for bleeding the system or applying the pressure? Have a very, very nice journey. I'm sad about, that we will have no time to meet. We aren’t as close as we were. Flew into Zurich and have worked our way down to Lugano now. Headed back north today and then west towards Zermatt. On the brake system, there’s no bleed screw I’m aware of on the master. You just put a small amount of air pressure on top of the fluid in the master and that pushes fluid through the lines and out the bleed screws on the wheel cylinders and calipers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 27, 2023 Author Share Posted September 27, 2023 We aren’t as close as we were. Flew into Zurich and have worked our way down to Lugano now. Headed back north today and then west towards Zermatt. On the brake system, there’s no bleed screw I’m aware of on the master. You just put a small amount of air pressure on top of the fluid in the master and that pushes fluid through the lines and out the bleed screws on the wheel cylinders and calipers. Hi, last weekend I've changes my front breaks and also the wheel bearings and seals. I also have cleaned and painted the hubs. While trying to uninstall the old rotors, I have found out that I need a special tool... I had to build one...including an adapter to be able to use with a torque wrench... So, the job is done. But I'm not sure if everything is working as it should. It still wobbles when breaking. Not when trying to stop...more when I press the pedal not to the floor. But also not when pressing it slightly...hard to describe...it's also possible that the rear breaks are the source. I'll perform some tests within the next days... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 Hi, last weekend I've changes my front breaks and also the wheel bearings and seals. I also have cleaned and painted the hubs. While trying to uninstall the old rotors, I have found out that I need a special tool... I had to build one...including an adapter to be able to use with a torque wrench... So, the job is done. But I'm not sure if everything is working as it should. It still wobbles when breaking. Not when trying to stop...more when I press the pedal not to the floor. But also not when pressing it slightly...hard to describe...it's also possible that the rear breaks are the source. I'll perform some tests within the next days... That is a really janky homemade spindle nut socket. I can’t imagine that thing allows you to torque spindle nuts correctly. Don’t you have Amazon? Maybe I’m just spoiled… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 Hi, last weekend I've changes my front breaks and also the wheel bearings and seals. I also have cleaned and painted the hubs. While trying to uninstall the old rotors, I have found out that I need a special tool... I had to build one...including an adapter to be able to use with a torque wrench... So, the job is done. But I'm not sure if everything is working as it should. It still wobbles when breaking. Not when trying to stop...more when I press the pedal not to the floor. But also not when pressing it slightly...hard to describe...it's also possible that the rear breaks are the source. I'll perform some tests within the next days... Rene, it's VERY possible you warped your rotors and/or drums decending those mountain passes while riding the brakes to failure. I don't imagine a spindle socket for a 37 year old American truck is readily available in Europe. I think you've done well to adapt and overcome! I've never set a front spindle to a specified torque. Perhaps when seating a new bearing while turning the wheel, but then I back it off to some minimal play (to account for heat) and call it good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 28, 2023 Author Share Posted September 28, 2023 That is a really janky homemade spindle nut socket. I can’t imagine that thing allows you to torque spindle nuts correctly. Don’t you have Amazon? Maybe I’m just spoiled… Believe it or not...it works at 68nm without deforming...and yes, I can (and already have) bought the correct socket. But starting on the weekend with changing the parts, I have had no chance to get such a socket within some hours... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 28, 2023 Author Share Posted September 28, 2023 Rene, it's VERY possible you warped your rotors and/or drums decending those mountain passes while riding the brakes to failure. I don't imagine a spindle socket for a 37 year old American truck is readily available in Europe. I think you've done well to adapt and overcome! I've never set a front spindle to a specified torque. Perhaps when seating a new bearing while turning the wheel, but then I back it off to some minimal play (to account for heat) and call it good. I'm with you. But everything is new now. Rotors, drums, pads... I used the torque wrench like described in the shop manual. Tighten to 68nm while turning the rotor and turned back about 45 degrees. I have to check if the wobbling comes from front or back. My plan is to check if the wobbling comes up when pressing the parking brake step by step... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 28, 2023 Share Posted September 28, 2023 I'm with you. But everything is new now. Rotors, drums, pads... I used the torque wrench like described in the shop manual. Tighten to 68nm while turning the rotor and turned back about 45 degrees. I have to check if the wobbling comes from front or back. My plan is to check if the wobbling comes up when pressing the parking brake step by step... Seems a reasonable plan. I hope you find the cause without much difficulty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 29, 2023 Author Share Posted September 29, 2023 Seems a reasonable plan. I hope you find the cause without much difficulty. There is something unusual I mentioned as unpacking the kit for the drum breaks... There were two different shoes. Two had a thinner pad and two a thicker pad...is this common? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 29, 2023 Share Posted September 29, 2023 There is something unusual I mentioned as unpacking the kit for the drum breaks... There were two different shoes. Two had a thinner pad and two a thicker pad...is this common? There's definitely a leading and a trailing shoe. I always see the friction material is longer on one. Never noticed that either shoe is thicker. That doesn't make sense.... Both use the same pivot and the drum is one inside diameter for both. The one at the rear (coming from the adjuster to the top pivot when the vehicle is in forward motion) cams it self harder. You have to pay close attention which you're installing the metal tab that the adjuster cable runs around. Short friction always goes to the front. Note the distance from top pivot to the beginning of the friction material in this photo from Akebono. "Duo servo type drum brake: The duo servo type features a structure where two brake shoes, called the primary shoe and secondary shoe, are linked via an adjuster.Strong pressure from the servo effect (self-boosting effect) of the primary shoe is transmitted to the linked secondary shoe, thus generated a very large braking force." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 29, 2023 Author Share Posted September 29, 2023 There's definitely a leading and a trailing shoe. I always see the friction material is longer on one. Never noticed that either shoe is thicker. That doesn't make sense.... Both use the same pivot and the drum is one inside diameter for both. The one at the rear (coming from the adjuster to the top pivot when the vehicle is in forward motion) cams it self harder. You have to pay close attention which you're installing the metal tab that the adjuster cable runs around. Short friction always goes to the front. Note the distance from top pivot to the beginning of the friction material in this photo from Akebono. "Duo servo type drum brake: The duo servo type features a structure where two brake shoes, called the primary shoe and secondary shoe, are linked via an adjuster.Strong pressure from the servo effect (self-boosting effect) of the primary shoe is transmitted to the linked secondary shoe, thus generated a very large braking force." Hmm...ok so it seems to be more uncommon... I have mounted the thicker one to the back, connected to the parking brake cable. Left side is thicker...I hope you can see it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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