Gary Lewis Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 Yes, that was also my thought, as changing the pads on the front breaks. But honestly I've forgotten this over time and the other problems I'd to solve. So, for next year the front breaks have to be replaced. Rotors, calipers, pads and hoses. I also have an already nicely painted master cylinder, that I will also mount in this step. About that master cylinder. Can you legally change out the master cylinder to a later style? The later plastic/aluminum ones are much better than the old cast iron ones. They don't leak, you can easily see how much fluid you have, and the brake system can be easily bled by applying 3 psi of pressure to the master cylinder via the screw-on lid. I am a strong proponent of the later ones and do not plan to install one of the cast iron ones again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 12, 2023 Author Share Posted September 12, 2023 About that master cylinder. Can you legally change out the master cylinder to a later style? The later plastic/aluminum ones are much better than the old cast iron ones. They don't leak, you can easily see how much fluid you have, and the brake system can be easily bled by applying 3 psi of pressure to the master cylinder via the screw-on lid. I am a strong proponent of the later ones and do not plan to install one of the cast iron ones again. Hi Gary, yes...I can. Is one of these recommended? RockAuto Will this year of build fit for me? I have the 1986 cruise control...do I need also a master cylinder that supports this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 Hi Gary, yes...I can. Is one of these recommended? RockAuto Will this year of build fit for me? I have the 1986 cruise control...do I need also a master cylinder that supports this? Yes, one of those master cylinders will work. However, you need one that includes the residual pressure valve as it is necessary to allow you to connect the brake lines. And, by the way, the brake lines need to swap front to back and vice versa as the new master cylinders have the ports reversed from ours. Luckily Larry Bolen/ratdude747 has been down this road, as reported on in this thread. He said "Raybestos makes a new master cylinder for the later application that includes the residual pressure valve, the reservoir, and the reservoir level sensor, specifically MC39634". And he bought his from Rock Auto. As for the cruise control bit, don't sweat it. The later cruise controls use a switch on the master cylinder to kill them. But your cruise control doesn't use a switch there so there's no need to use that part of the master cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 12, 2023 Author Share Posted September 12, 2023 Yes, one of those master cylinders will work. However, you need one that includes the residual pressure valve as it is necessary to allow you to connect the brake lines. And, by the way, the brake lines need to swap front to back and vice versa as the new master cylinders have the ports reversed from ours. Luckily Larry Bolen/ratdude747 has been down this road, as reported on in this thread. He said "Raybestos makes a new master cylinder for the later application that includes the residual pressure valve, the reservoir, and the reservoir level sensor, specifically MC39634". And he bought his from Rock Auto. As for the cruise control bit, don't sweat it. The later cruise controls use a switch on the master cylinder to kill them. But your cruise control doesn't use a switch there so there's no need to use that part of the master cylinder. Ok, that sounds perfect. So I'll add this to my next order in which I'll buy new rotors, calipers, hoses and pads. After this the break system has a complete overhaul. Only the booster stays the original, cause it works and I see no use to replace it... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 12, 2023 Share Posted September 12, 2023 Ok, that sounds perfect. So I'll add this to my next order in which I'll buy new rotors, calipers, hoses and pads. After this the break system has a complete overhaul. Only the booster stays the original, cause it works and I see no use to replace it... Rene - Pull the master cylinder away from the booster and see if there's any wetness in there. If so the master cylinder has leaked brake fluid into the master and it is just a matter of time before it fails. Not if, but when. If it is wet then I'd replace it while you have everything apart. If it is dry then I'd keep it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 15, 2023 Author Share Posted September 15, 2023 Rene - Pull the master cylinder away from the booster and see if there's any wetness in there. If so the master cylinder has leaked brake fluid into the master and it is just a matter of time before it fails. Not if, but when. If it is wet then I'd replace it while you have everything apart. If it is dry then I'd keep it. Hi, can I also use the rotors for the auto-locking hub? Rockauto.com The offer from Chad is good, but I can't invest so much in breaks and also new 17" wheels...so I have to stay with Factory breaks... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 15, 2023 Share Posted September 15, 2023 Hi, can I also use the rotors for the auto-locking hub? Rockauto.com The offer from Chad is good, but I can't invest so much in breaks and also new 17" wheels...so I have to stay with Factory breaks... The page at Documetation/Driveline/4WD Front Hubs & Rotors says all Broncos use Parts List 5. And that says all of them use D6TZ 1111-A rotors, regardless of what hubs are used. So yes, you should be able to use those rotors. Having said that, I don't understand why they'd say they are for auto-locking hubs. Maybe you should ask them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 20, 2023 Author Share Posted September 20, 2023 The page at Documetation/Driveline/4WD Front Hubs & Rotors says all Broncos use Parts List 5. And that says all of them use D6TZ 1111-A rotors, regardless of what hubs are used. So yes, you should be able to use those rotors. Having said that, I don't understand why they'd say they are for auto-locking hubs. Maybe you should ask them? Hi Gary, I've ordered all the parts I need, including also the wheel bearings regarding to your list, you've created before. Now, if I understand you right, I can bleed my whole break-system by applying pressure to a point at the 1994 master cylinder, I've also bought. How does this work? Is there any information about or a video maybe? Do I need special tools or a part/adapter with US threat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 20, 2023 Share Posted September 20, 2023 Hi Gary, I've ordered all the parts I need, including also the wheel bearings regarding to your list, you've created before. Now, if I understand you right, I can bleed my whole break-system by applying pressure to a point at the 1994 master cylinder, I've also bought. How does this work? Is there any information about or a video maybe? Do I need special tools or a part/adapter with US threat? Rene - Remember the trip I mentioned? I’m about 440 clicks south of you, so won’t be on here very much. But the way the bleeding works is to get a second cap for the master cylinder, put a fitting in it for compressed air, and then put about 3 psi on it. You don’t even have to have a compressor as you can use a garden sprayer to pump up the pressure. Then just bleed starting at the longest run and stop when you get solid brake fluid w/o any bubbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 20, 2023 Author Share Posted September 20, 2023 Rene - Remember the trip I mentioned? I’m about 440 clicks south of you, so won’t be on here very much. But the way the bleeding works is to get a second cap for the master cylinder, put a fitting in it for compressed air, and then put about 3 psi on it. You don’t even have to have a compressor as you can use a garden sprayer to pump up the pressure. Then just bleed starting at the longest run and stop when you get solid brake fluid w/o any bubbles. Hi Gary, so we are pretty close, right now. Thinking in distances of some people living in the USA, you are as near as the next supermarket... In German distances it's the way half through the whole country. Ok, but haven't you said the 1994 master cylinder, I've bought, has a screw for bleeding the system or applying the pressure? Have a very, very nice journey. I'm sad about, that we will have no time to meet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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