ReneH Posted August 22 Author Share Posted August 22 there is this thing that happens to fuel pumps as they are getting old/weak. they need help starting. bang on the fuel tank with fist or rubber mallet and try again and often the shock rattles the motor enough to start. the window motors are basically no different and that may explain it starting to work again on the way back. you hit a couple bumps! I'm one who will pull a motor apart and regrease the end bearings, polish the contacts and inspect the brushes. look for loose magnets also. but that's only after all else is proven to the motor. As I have enough tools with me, I will remove the cover of the tailgate tomorrow morning, before we start our journey back to Germany. I'll check the version with the bumper, tomorrow. If the motor has to be overhauled, I can do this, when I'm back in my workshop. Currently, my biggest problem is, that we can't access our baggage and we have no access to the stroller without removing one child seat and lift it into the cabin... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted August 22 Share Posted August 22 I've searched the ground inside the engine bay...but I'm not sure where it should be near the wiper motor. But I'm relatively sure, that ground connection is given...the light won't get darker, unless there is much current flowing...so as this is the fact, there seems something wrong with the motor...I think I have to remove the panel of the tailgate and try to help the motor going down...maybe it stucks? Is this possible? Is there another way to get the window down? The only other way I know of to get the window down is to crawl in back, take the panel off and take the motor loose. I would have someone hold the window or tape it up and let it down easy. To me this is only to replace the motor, not to get your luggage out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted August 23 Share Posted August 23 The only other way I know of to get the window down is to crawl in back, take the panel off and take the motor loose. I would have someone hold the window or tape it up and let it down easy. To me this is only to replace the motor, not to get your luggage out. I learned that trick 20 years ago. we stopped for lunch and when we came back out to the van it would not start. my assistant looked me strait in the eyes and said, "that's funny, it was running when you shut it off". I just stared back at him. he then jumped out and grabbed a large pr of pliers from the plumbing toolbox and went to banging on my 35-gallon tank and said try it now. it started! he jumps up and said you need a pump. it got a pump! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 I learned that trick 20 years ago. we stopped for lunch and when we came back out to the van it would not start. my assistant looked me strait in the eyes and said, "that's funny, it was running when you shut it off". I just stared back at him. he then jumped out and grabbed a large pr of pliers from the plumbing toolbox and went to banging on my 35-gallon tank and said try it now. it started! he jumps up and said you need a pump. it got a pump! So, I've crawled inside the trunk and removed the cover...a slight tip with a hammer on the motor and it works! So I've closed the window and it goes down again...after 3 times, it stucks again in the closed position...never in the open position... But it works. So it seems, that I should overhaul the motor...does anyone has a tutorial for me? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 So, I've crawled inside the trunk and removed the cover...a slight tip with a hammer on the motor and it works! So I've closed the window and it goes down again...after 3 times, it stucks again in the closed position...never in the open position... But it works. So it seems, that I should overhaul the motor...does anyone has a tutorial for me? How 'bout: Documentation/Body/Bronco Rear Window? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted August 25 Author Share Posted August 25 How 'bout: Documentation/Body/Bronco Rear Window? Ok...thanks! So, I've checked the oil again today, as I'm back at home. I've driven 1895 miles and have refilled 1.9 liters in total...so the engine burns about 1 liter per 1000 miles... 50ml were in the catch can. If I remember correctly there were 40ml before, so 90ml in total for 1895 miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 25 Share Posted August 25 Ok...thanks! So, I've checked the oil again today, as I'm back at home. I've driven 1895 miles and have refilled 1.9 liters in total...so the engine burns about 1 liter per 1000 miles... 50ml were in the catch can. If I remember correctly there were 40ml before, so 90ml in total for 1895 miles. So you used 1.9L and of that .09L was in the catch can or about 5% of the total. Once you settle back in to your life in Germany maybe you can run a leak-down test and determine where the problem is. Again, at a liter per 1000 miles I'd just put oil in it and enjoy it. However, I'd still want to know what the problem is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 7 Author Share Posted September 7 So you used 1.9L and of that .09L was in the catch can or about 5% of the total. Once you settle back in to your life in Germany maybe you can run a leak-down test and determine where the problem is. Again, at a liter per 1000 miles I'd just put oil in it and enjoy it. However, I'd still want to know what the problem is. So it seems very hard to get GT40 or GT40P heads in Germany, even as hard as to find a Ford explorer with V8 engine... I have found this at rockauto.com: GT40P heads Maybe they can tell me, when this part is available and what's the price for it. I have also found some heads at summit racing, but due to a missing description, I don't know what type of head they're offering... I'll perform the leakdown test maybe today, if I have enough time left...otherwise next weekend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 7 Share Posted September 7 So it seems very hard to get GT40 or GT40P heads in Germany, even as hard as to find a Ford explorer with V8 engine... I have found this at rockauto.com: GT40P heads Maybe they can tell me, when this part is available and what's the price for it. I have also found some heads at summit racing, but due to a missing description, I don't know what type of head they're offering... I'll perform the leakdown test maybe today, if I have enough time left...otherwise next weekend... If it is that hard to get the other heads then I'd probably pass. But I'd also not make plans until I knew what the issue is with the engine and oil consumption. Hopefully the problem is in the heads, like the valve seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted September 7 Author Share Posted September 7 If it is that hard to get the other heads then I'd probably pass. But I'd also not make plans until I knew what the issue is with the engine and oil consumption. Hopefully the problem is in the heads, like the valve seals. Yes, you are right. But as everyone knows how much time all this will cost, I'm searching by now to find something useful. As you may know, I've planned to change the heads from the beginning, but it's always a decision with the costs in sight. (This is maybe German-English...) I will locate where the oil has went, first. But as I also will change the intake mainfold, I need to know which one I need fitting to the heads. So that's the reason, why I'm searching so early for these heads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts