Last chance for success

[FuzzFace2]

Can you show us a closeup of the yoke from directly ahead of it?

I have only seen external (tab)

or

Internal that uses a snap ring.

I have never seen one that uses both.

Now if you cant get a new one to replace it here is what I might do.

If you have a welder weld a "tab" back in place.

You would need to use a Dremal to finish the tab so the caps fit between them to hold the cap.

Because the tab is not there and it is not made for the snap ring inside I would not drive it with out something to hold the cap.

With that said and if you dont have a welder and the truck is not a 4x4, yes you can drive it in 4x4 if the transfer case also has a bolt in Ujoint.

If a slip joint dont worry just yet.

How far to the welder?

I would take a large hose clamp and put it around the Ujoint after it is bolted in to hold the cap in place till the tab is welded back in place.

Yes it may vibrate a little but if you keep the speed down and maybe put another clamp with the screw on the other side of the shaft it may balance out to get to the welder.

Yes I am too good for Road Kill

Dave ----

[Klala]

Can you show us a closeup of the yoke from directly ahead of it?

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks for the pics. Unfortunately I can't tell much from them, even blow up on my computer.

So I pulled out a spare yoke I have. It is from a transfer case not a rear axle, but may be representative. And there is no recess on it like I was expecting. Just the tang. So if yours is like that and the tang is gone it is not going to work and the yoke will have to be replaced or repaired.

Unfortunately replacing a yoke on an axle is not easy. So you might consider the repair approach that Dave/Fuzzface2 laid out.

[FuzzFace2]

Thanks for the pics. Unfortunately I can't tell much from them, even blow up on my computer.

So I pulled out a spare yoke I have. It is from a transfer case not a rear axle, but may be representative. And there is no recess on it like I was expecting. Just the tang. So if yours is like that and the tang is gone it is not going to work and the yoke will have to be replaced or repaired.

Unfortunately replacing a yoke on an axle is not easy. So you might consider the repair approach that Dave/Fuzzface2 laid out.

I dont think replacing it is all that hard once you break loose the nut.

I would mark the nut and the pinion so the nut can go back to were it was before you started.

Tank the nut off and pull off the yoke.

Put a little oil / grease where the seal runs before you slip it back on the pinion.

Dose the FSM say to use any sealer on it so gear oil dose not leak out?

Slip the yoke back on and the nut.

You should be able to feel when it is tight then just line up the mark you made and you should be good.

Yes I know the FSM may want you to get a new crush collar and use a inch pound wench to check preload on the pinion, wheels off but when you dont have all this fancy stuff you do what you got to do LOL

And yes I know there is difference on preload for new & used bearings.

Did I say something about Road Kill

Dave ----

[AmericanSavage]

Rare color—Light Sand Ford Called it even into 1982. I repainted mine that color.

I am 5’6” and the bench has to be almost all the way forward for me, but, I can reach just fine.

[Gary Lewis]

I dont think replacing it is all that hard once you break loose the nut.

I would mark the nut and the pinion so the nut can go back to were it was before you started.

Tank the nut off and pull off the yoke.

Put a little oil / grease where the seal runs before you slip it back on the pinion.

Dose the FSM say to use any sealer on it so gear oil dose not leak out?

Slip the yoke back on and the nut.

You should be able to feel when it is tight then just line up the mark you made and you should be good.

Yes I know the FSM may want you to get a new crush collar and use a inch pound wench to check preload on the pinion, wheels off but when you dont have all this fancy stuff you do what you got to do LOL

And yes I know there is difference on preload for new & used bearings.

Did I say something about Road Kill

Dave ----

The FSM sections for the rear axle are here: Documentation/Driveline/Rear Axle. But before figuring out what the FSM says we need to know what axle it is. An F350 would have a D60 or D70, but if it really is an F150 driveline it should be either an 8.8" or a 9".

And that makes a big difference. For instance, a Dana takes 250 - 270 ft-lbs of torque on the pinion nut. But a 9" is very different.

So if we are going down the replace-the-pinion road we need to ID the rear axle. And to do that we need some pictures - bigger pics.