ArdWrknTrk Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 Hi Gary, you might be right...as grown from the last experiences, I may handle the engine with kid gloves...as for my last rides I don't exceed 2,500 rpm (about 60 mph). Ok for about 5 minutes I've took the truck up to 3,000 rpm (about 70 mph), yesterday. Only with warn engine, for sure. What I find very interesting is, that I haven't pushed the pedal more that a quarter of it's whole way down to the floor...it feels like the speedometer will end before reaching the maximum speed... About the movement: I'll check this after changing the plugs within this week. In this case: what do you think about starting the engine only for testing purposes (like the new plugs and engine movement), cause of the short time it will run for such a test? Or should I wait for such tests after reaching the 500 miles? About the breaks: they have been changed by the former owner or the importer of the car. So I don't know how the new pads were treated... As I still have to check the play in the steering column and I will need some spare parts, I'll may order also new rotors and pads... You need to actually put pressure on the rings to get them to seat. 'Babying' I new engine is not recommended. Nor is keeping the rpm's at one speed. You may not want to push it past 3.000 rpm for the first few hundred miles but you definitely don't want to glaze the cylinders and have to pull it apart to re-ring either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 19, 2023 Author Share Posted June 19, 2023 You need to actually put pressure on the rings to get them to seat. 'Babying' I new engine is not recommended. Nor is keeping the rpm's at one speed. You may not want to push it past 3.000 rpm for the first few hundred miles but you definitely don't want to glaze the cylinders and have to pull it apart to re-ring either. Ok, so you think I should also test if my kick-down cable works, when the engine is warm... I have had to replace the old one, cause it was defective. I wasn't able to check if it works or if I have to adjust the setting... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 Ok, so you think I should also test if my kick-down cable works, when the engine is warm... I have had to replace the old one, cause it was defective. I wasn't able to check if it works or if I have to adjust the setting... The purpose of break-in oil and a break-in procedure is to get all the components of a new engine to lap into one another. These are old style engines using old style metallurgy, machined to old style tolerances. Your cam made it past the first 20 minutes, don't screw it up now. Edit The most important things are: don't lug the engine, vary the rpm, put it under load (either running it up through the gears or bursts of acceleration on the highway) You want to make it work and then let off so surfaces can cool down and oil can bathe away any possible contamination. Engine builders break in engines on the dyno every day. It's not gentle, but it's respectful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 19, 2023 Share Posted June 19, 2023 The purpose of break-in oil and a break-in procedure is to get all the components of a new engine to lap into one another. These are old style engines using old style metallurgy, machined to old style tolerances. Your cam made it past the first 20 minutes, don't screw it up now. Edit The most important things are: don't lug the engine, vary the rpm, put it under load (either running it up through the gears or bursts of acceleration on the highway) You want to make it work and then let off so surfaces can cool down and oil can bathe away any possible contamination. Engine builders break in engines on the dyno every day. It's not gentle, but it's respectful. Jim is right. You don't need to wind it up too much, but certainly get on the throttle and get some cylinder pressure up to seat the rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 20, 2023 Author Share Posted June 20, 2023 Jim is right. You don't need to wind it up too much, but certainly get on the throttle and get some cylinder pressure up to seat the rings. Ok, I'll do so. It's also what I'm feeling it's the right way. Back to my open cases: 1. About the breaks I'll buy new pads from rockauto.com. I'm thinking about also to buy new disks, only to be sure. If my disks are ok...fine. the new ones can be put into my stock. If not, I have all them here to change it. Can you recommend me a set or single disks and pads available at rockauto? Here are some images of my breaks and front axle: And the rear axle regarding the bearings: As ordering the break-parts, I'm also thinking about to add new bearings to my order. Maybe someone also have a recommendation for front and rear wheel bearings? Before the next trip, I'll check the idle vacuum and idle rpm, change the plugs and add some oil to my C6. What amount of vacuum should I have and what idle rpm will be best for my engine configuration? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 21, 2023 Author Share Posted June 21, 2023 Ok, I'll do so. It's also what I'm feeling it's the right way. Back to my open cases: 1. About the breaks I'll buy new pads from rockauto.com. I'm thinking about also to buy new disks, only to be sure. If my disks are ok...fine. the new ones can be put into my stock. If not, I have all them here to change it. Can you recommend me a set or single disks and pads available at rockauto? Here are some images of my breaks and front axle: And the rear axle regarding the bearings: As ordering the break-parts, I'm also thinking about to add new bearings to my order. Maybe someone also have a recommendation for front and rear wheel bearings? Before the next trip, I'll check the idle vacuum and idle rpm, change the plugs and add some oil to my C6. What amount of vacuum should I have and what idle rpm will be best for my engine configuration? So, I have found these parts... Are they ok? Should I choose others? About the bearings and according seals, I'm helpless...I don't know what I need for my front and rear axle... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 21, 2023 Author Share Posted June 21, 2023 So, I have found these parts... Are they ok? Should I choose others? About the bearings and according seals, I'm helpless...I don't know what I need for my front and rear axle... Ok...I really need help choosing the parts. How can I determine which steering gearbox I have/need? How can I identify if I need the 3 1/4" gearbox? The play is definitely inside the box. I can turn the steering wheel, the input shaft of the box moves simultaneously, but the steering lever doesn't move... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 21, 2023 Share Posted June 21, 2023 Ok...I really need help choosing the parts. How can I determine which steering gearbox I have/need? How can I identify if I need the 3 1/4" gearbox? The play is definitely inside the box. I can turn the steering wheel, the input shaft of the box moves simultaneously, but the steering lever doesn't move... Let's see if I can answer the questions. First, Bosch and Raybestos are good brands. But do you need to replace the wheel bearings and seals? On brake jobs I usually don't. As for the steering gear box, it does sound like the box is the problem. But there is only one box for all of these trucks - assuming power steering. So all of these SHOULD fit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1986,bronco,5.8l+351cid+v8,1105861,steering,steering+gear,7416. However, be aware that all of these are remanufactured. And since the front of the shaft uses the cast iron of the box as a bearing, all boxes are worn at that spot to some extent. Rebuilders just check to see if the box is within their tolerance before rebuilding. But that means that all of those boxes are less precise than they were new, and they might not meet your expectations. On the other hand, Redhead and Blue Top bore the box out and press a real bearing in, so in that way the box is better than new. But I don't know if either of them ship to Germany. And I believe they require your box to be sent in to be rebuilt. However, I have a few of them and we might be able to work out a deal where I ship one in for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted June 22, 2023 Author Share Posted June 22, 2023 Let's see if I can answer the questions. First, Bosch and Raybestos are good brands. But do you need to replace the wheel bearings and seals? On brake jobs I usually don't. As for the steering gear box, it does sound like the box is the problem. But there is only one box for all of these trucks - assuming power steering. So all of these SHOULD fit: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1986,bronco,5.8l+351cid+v8,1105861,steering,steering+gear,7416. However, be aware that all of these are remanufactured. And since the front of the shaft uses the cast iron of the box as a bearing, all boxes are worn at that spot to some extent. Rebuilders just check to see if the box is within their tolerance before rebuilding. But that means that all of those boxes are less precise than they were new, and they might not meet your expectations. On the other hand, Redhead and Blue Top bore the box out and press a real bearing in, so in that way the box is better than new. But I don't know if either of them ship to Germany. And I believe they require your box to be sent in to be rebuilt. However, I have a few of them and we might be able to work out a deal where I ship one in for you. Hi Gary, thanks for the answers. I don't want to change the bearings if it isn't necessary. But as I need to order from rockauto.com and the bearings all are not really expensive, I want to add them. Cause if I need them another time, I have to pay more shipping for only order the bearings... About the steering box: I understand. Your suggestion sounds good to me. I have a sipping address in the USA, so receiving packages won't be a problem... Bill already have had send goods to this address. So, let's talk about this deal. You also can send an email to me for the price and details. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 22, 2023 Share Posted June 22, 2023 Hi Gary, thanks for the answers. I don't want to change the bearings if it isn't necessary. But as I need to order from rockauto.com and the bearings all are not really expensive, I want to add them. Cause if I need them another time, I have to pay more shipping for only order the bearings... About the steering box: I understand. Your suggestion sounds good to me. I have a sipping address in the USA, so receiving packages won't be a problem... Bill already have had send goods to this address. So, let's talk about this deal. You also can send an email to me for the price and details. On the bearings, it makes sense to get them while you are shipping things over. As for the steering box, I just sent you an email. I'm sure we can make a deal - I'm cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts