L'il Blue '83 F150 4x4

[Gary Lewis]

Yeah, I sem to remember 200 '#

I may be doing that job soon, as my truck decided to lose all its fluid today.

I suspect the input seal.

Of course I can't find my crows foot wrenches.

It can be done w/o those wrenches. But they’d sure help.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It can be done w/o those wrenches. But they’d sure help.

I'll have to wash it down in daylight to be absolutely sure, but I don't like running that pump empty.

I'd wish it was just a line but at a glance the ports on top seemed too dry.

If I have to go out to buy a box and 'rent' a pitman arm puller (as I'm not near my tool box) I'll just buy a crow foot.

It is way too frustrating to do the job with fingers and a ground down end wrench.

Jeff seemed happy with a NAPA reman.

This is certainly not elective surgery, so I've got no time for one of the bright coloured steering boxes.

I'll report to the WHYDTYTT so as not to derail all the good work TJ is getting done with L'il Blue.

L'il Red--out.

[BigBrother-84]

Jeff seemed happy with a NAPA reman.

Big Bro did 8400 miles trip last summer, not always on highways.

Some rough roads, gravel (even pitchy airpins trails ).

Direction is still perfectly stiff.

I can't complain about NAPA's rebuilt box, but maybe I was just lucky.

[Gary Lewis]

Jeff seemed happy with a NAPA reman.

Big Bro did 8400 miles trip last summer, not always on highways.

Some rough roads, gravel (even pitchy airpins trails ).

Direction is still perfectly stiff.

I can't complain about NAPA's rebuilt box, but maybe I was just lucky.

Got the Blue Top snugged down and the connections on after flushing the system. It drives soooo much better! But the battery was dead and after charging it we found the alternator wasn't charging. To the parts store we went and now it charges fine. I'm thinking it may have had a bad diode.

Plus we swapped out the Bricknose steering wheel for a proper Bullnose wheel. But we haven't figured out why the horn relay clicks but the horn doesn't honk.

So, to summarize: replaced the back glass; replaced the seat and helicoiled the seat nuts; replaced the steering box; replaced the steering wheel; replaced the alternator & regulator. Time to put away the tools and have a Merry Christmas!!!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Got the Blue Top snugged down and the connections on after flushing the system. It drives soooo much better! But the battery was dead and after charging it we found the alternator wasn't charging. To the parts store we went and now it charges fine. I'm thinking it may have had a bad diode.

Plus we swapped out the Bricknose steering wheel for a proper Bullnose wheel. But we haven't figured out why the horn relay clicks but the horn doesn't honk.

So, to summarize: replaced the back glass; replaced the seat and helicoiled the seat nuts; replaced the steering box; replaced the steering wheel; replaced the alternator & regulator. Time to put away the tools and have a Merry Christmas!!!

If it clicks it's got to be either C305a or the relay itself (if the horn proved when jumpered directly)

[Gary Lewis]

If it clicks it's got to be either C305a or the relay itself (if the horn proved when jumpered directly)

TJ said the horn worked when jumped from the battery. So you are right, we may have a bad relay or wiring.

We may get to test it on Tuesday, but otherwise I think we are done for this trip. There’s always next time.

[ArdWrknTrk]

TJ said the horn worked when jumped from the battery. So you are right, we may have a bad relay or wiring.

We may get to test it on Tuesday, but otherwise I think we are done for this trip. There’s always next time.

There's been a couple of threads recently about fishing wires to replace the turn signal switch.

I don't have speed control but I know you've mentioned that there are differences in the pinout of 305/305A (the crescent shaped plugs down by the ignition switch)

Iirc there is also an open position in one of those plugs, so it may be that the wires don't line up.... ?

Perhaps someone had replaced the switch in the past and didn't get it right?

Maybe they didn't get the pin completely seated in the connector?

If the blue wire going to the horn itself has continuity, and the relay clicks, my mind goes to a mismatch in the connector.

[Gary Lewis]

There's been a couple of threads recently about fishing wires to replace the turn signal switch.

I don't have speed control but I know you've mentioned that there are differences in the pinout of 305/305A (the crescent shaped plugs down by the ignition switch)

Iirc there is also an open position in one of those plugs, so it may be that the wires don't line up.... ?

Perhaps someone had replaced the switch in the past and didn't get it right?

Maybe they didn't get the pin completely seated in the connector?

If the blue wire going to the horn itself has continuity, and the relay clicks, my mind goes to a mismatch in the connector.

That's a possibility, Jim. I'm hoping we have time to check it out on Boxing Day.

[Gary Lewis]

That's a possibility, Jim. I'm hoping we have time to check it out on Boxing Day.

Well, we may have had several problems. We first jumpered from the battery to the horn and almost got it to honk. Sorta, but not really.

So we pulled it and flooded it with contact cleaner and then cleaned the mounting contact. After that it honked nicely.

But it would still only almost honk from the horn pad, even though the relay was coming in. So we cleaned and tightened the connection to the wire. After that the relay would come in and the horn almost honk, but the relay isn't sending full battery voltage to the horn.

So I'll send TJ a horn relay.

Next up was the brakes, which are soft. The PO told us he had fits installing the new brakes on the rear, so we decided to bleed the system. And the first thing we noticed was the wrong boot in the top of the master. Second was that you can pull the bleed valve completely out and get no fluid in the rear.

I think the master may be ok as it was full of fluid and there doesn't seem to be any vacuum leakage in the booster, so I'm guessing things are ok there. So I think it is time for at least a rear brake job.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Well, we may have had several problems. We first jumpered from the battery to the horn and almost got it to honk. Sorta, but not really.

So we pulled it and flooded it with contact cleaner and then cleaned the mounting contact. After that it honked nicely.

But it would still only almost honk from the horn pad, even though the relay was coming in. So we cleaned and tightened the connection to the wire. After that the relay would come in and the horn almost honk, but the relay isn't sending full battery voltage to the horn.

So I'll send TJ a horn relay.

Next up was the brakes, which are soft. The PO told us he had fits installing the new brakes on the rear, so we decided to bleed the system. And the first thing we noticed was the wrong boot in the top of the master. Second was that you can pull the bleed valve completely out and get no fluid in the rear.

I think the master may be ok as it was full of fluid and there doesn't seem to be any vacuum leakage in the booster, so I'm guessing things are ok there. So I think it is time for at least a rear brake job.

Maybe you should try resetting the multifunction valve by opening the front bleeders and standing on the pedal?