L'il Blue '83 F150 4x4

[Ford F834]

Oh, wow! I'd forgotten that, Jonathan. Thanks! This pad will fit right in then.

As I said elsewhere, this truck is a very well-optioned base truck. Base because I didn't find any badges saying Custom or anything else. And because it doesn't have a headliner and it didn't look like it ever had. Plus I think it had a rubber mat, not carpet. And the little Type 5 mirrors.

But for options it has a digital clock that works, sliding rear window, gauges, map/dome light combo with cargo light, underhood light, A/C, speed control, tilt wheel, and auto-locking hubs. Plus a C6/302 combo with 3.08 gears.

Gary, if I’m remembering right 1980/81 had Custom, Ranger, Ranger XLT, and Ranger Lariat. 1982+ had Standard (no badging), XL and XLT (plus XLS in 82/83). So this truck would have been “Standard” trim but with options.

Big Brother would indeed be factory correct with rosewood horn pad speed control

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, if I’m remembering right 1980/81 had Custom, Ranger, Ranger XLT, and Ranger Lariat. 1982+ had Standard (no badging), XL and XLT (plus XLS in 82/83). So this truck would have been “Standard” trim but with options.

Big Brother would indeed be factory correct with rosewood horn pad speed control

Thanks, Jonathan. That confirms my observation - no badges so "Standard".

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks, Jonathan. That confirms my observation - no badges so "Standard".

Ok, the care package is ready, and the list of things in the document embedded in my first post shows what is in it. But there is a bit of room left, so maybe there's something else I can put into the upper left corner? I plan to send it Monday so need to move quickly.

Also, here's why I wanted to install the CRL latch on the rear window dividers myself rather than leave that for TJ.

As I discovered when installing the same latch on Big Blue's window dividers, the holes for the striker part of the latch don't line up with those in the divider. So I had to use an end mill in the drill to make the holes egg-shaped to allow the screws to go into the original holes.

In addition, the screws provided with the new latch don't easily go into the other divider far enough to properly secure the latch. So it took a bit of "encouragement" to get the screws in far enough.

[tjmac]

Yes, just jump from the positive battery post to the horn terminal after you remove the wire that is on there. If the horn works then we'll have to troubleshoot the wiring, the fuse, the horn relay, etc. If not I'll send another horn.

The light itself of the underhood light pulls out of the housing. There's a small speaker-sized wire that's about 20' long coiled up inside. And there's a mercury switch that turns it on when the hood is fully open. If the light pulls out and then fully retracts I'll be amazed. And if the mercury switch also works it'll be a miracle. But if so then there's no reason for me to send you another one. However, knowing a little bit of what you have going on that could wait for later. Or I could send you one and pick it or the existing one up on our next trip. And I do have the bulbs.

The dash lights won't be just "a" bulb as there are 5 of them in there if I remember correctly. And it isn't something easily checked as the headlight & windshield wiper control knobs have to come off, the collar between the wheel and the dash bezel has to come off, and then several screws have to be taken out. And that just gets the dash bezel off! Then there are several screws plus the speedo cable and electrical connector to get the gauge cluster out so you can check the bulbs.

It is more likely to be the fuse or the headlight switch. If the fuse isn't blown then all the things shown below should light up. Your HVAC control is on the floor so isn't a good test. And your ash tray is in the toolbox. But you could look to see if the light above the headlight switch and wiper control comes on. And the digital clock is supposed to dim when the interior lights come on. So if either of those things happen there is voltage coming out of the fuse and headlight switch dimmer, so there is either a wiring problem or all 5 bulbs are out.

If it is the bulbs I have 5 HIPO blue LEDs that will light up the dash. You may not like the blue, but go to my post here and see what you think. And if you are going to be that far into the gauges maybe I should send you the red paint for the needles.

So if you get a chance, please check to see if the light above the headlight & windshield wiper controls comes on and if the digital clock dims. If both do then I'll send the LEDs and paint. Or, if you like the blue as shown in that post, I'll send the HIPO LEDs and paint anyway.

Sorry- phone-based post, I couldn’t easily adjust the code for the pic to show upright.

My under hood light pulls out and retracts smoothly! Haven’t tested the mercury switch with a new bulb yet but will do when Iget back from a trip this weekend.

Gary- thanks for the work on the back window locks! The only thing I can think of (right now) is maybe door lock interior pop up pulls. I’ll be looking for a molded handle cover for the driver door panel, sometime in the far future.

Safety related fixes & Water intrusion are the first priority, in the near term.

Also read the great article listed on the board on carburetor start-ups - I’m not completely convinced user error is my (full) issue, as I’m having the symptom of losing acceleration on a turn, and it’s increasingly not wanting to slip into gear without some encouragement, in the driveway or after a stop, but only right after it wakes up. Once it’s warm, there’s no issue at all. Will read more and begin to try and figure that out next week.

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry- phone-based post, I couldn’t easily adjust the code for the pic to show upright.

My under hood light pulls out and retracts smoothly! Haven’t tested the mercury switch with a new bulb yet but will do when Iget back from a trip this weekend.

Gary- thanks for the work on the back window locks! The only thing I can think of (right now) is maybe door lock interior pop up pulls. I’ll be looking for a molded handle cover for the driver door panel, sometime in the far future.

Safety related fixes & Water intrusion are the first priority, in the near term.

Also read the great article listed on the board on carburetor start-ups - I’m not completely convinced user error is my (full) issue, as I’m having the symptom of losing acceleration on a turn, and it’s increasingly not wanting to slip into gear without some encouragement, in the driveway or after a stop, but only right after it wakes up. Once it’s warm, there’s no issue at all. Will read more and begin to try and figure that out next week.

Just in case your light doesn't work I've included a spare that is known to work. I'll pick up whichever is redundant on our next visit.

Not sure what you mean by "molded handle cover" but I suspect you mean the arm rest and I have a black one in the tote.

I'll look for the lock pullups.

On the choke, by "increasingly not wanting to slip into gear without some encouragement" you mean the engine doesn't want to run when you drop it into gear when the engine is "cold"? Not that the transmission isn't shifting into gear like your Jeep. Right?

From the "Once it’s warm, there’s no issue at all" statement I think that it is the engine, and this suggests that your choke is either not adjusted on enough or is otherwise not working properly.

I feel a Youtube coming on regarding choke adjustments - assuming I have a 2150 sitting around after I gave my granddaughter one for the school project.

But the pic below is of your carb and the red circles and arrow point to the three screws that hold the choke housing on. The yellow arrow points to the marker line and the green arrow points to the index marks. (Does the sheet metal donut keep the choke from turning? Gotta look at that.)

You do not remove the screws but just loosen them enough to let you turn the black housing. Note where the marker line is pointing currently and turn it one notch so the choke closes, not opens. (Direction TBD.) Then tighten them back just snug and give it a try.

[81-F150-Explorer]

Ok, the care package is ready, and the list of things in the document embedded in my first post shows what is in it. But there is a bit of room left, so maybe there's something else I can put into the upper left corner? I plan to send it Monday so need to move quickly.

Also, here's why I wanted to install the CRL latch on the rear window dividers myself rather than leave that for TJ.

As I discovered when installing the same latch on Big Blue's window dividers, the holes for the striker part of the latch don't line up with those in the divider. So I had to use an end mill in the drill to make the holes egg-shaped to allow the screws to go into the original holes.

In addition, the screws provided with the new latch don't easily go into the other divider far enough to properly secure the latch. So it took a bit of "encouragement" to get the screws in far enough.

This post reminds me that I need a steering wheel. Nothing really wrong with mine, but it is showing the wear of almost 800,000 miles. The texture and lines are gone on the left side. Adds character perhaps.

[81-F150-Explorer]

I'll look for the lock pullups.

Looking at the pictures, he might need the actuating rod as well. I don't see it in the hole either.

Didn't he say his doors were replaced by a different model? Or is my stroke brain mixing things up? They weren't from a 1980-1981 with slide locks by any chance? That could open up a can of worms that's not expected.

[tjmac]

I'll look for the lock pullups.

Looking at the pictures, he might need the actuating rod as well. I don't see it in the hole either.

Didn't he say his doors were replaced by a different model? Or is my stroke brain mixing things up? They weren't from a 1980-1981 with slide locks by any chance? That could open up a can of worms that's not expected.

As far as I remember, the doors and panels are original, but once I get into them, we’ll see!

I’ll also look around the forum to see how people have changed out the locks- my passenger door lock doesnt unlock with the key; once I inspect it, maybe it’s fixable, or maybe not.

Have also had a hard time getting keys made for this truck- Ace and Lowe’s said they couldn’t do it with the Hillman machines they use ( but suspect the workers aren’t well trained/experienced- can’t blame em) Will poke around and see if others have had that issue.

[Gary Lewis]

I'll look for the lock pullups.

Looking at the pictures, he might need the actuating rod as well. I don't see it in the hole either.

Didn't he say his doors were replaced by a different model? Or is my stroke brain mixing things up? They weren't from a 1980-1981 with slide locks by any chance? That could open up a can of worms that's not expected.

TJ's 1983 has the pin locks, and hopefully has the linkage in the doors as I shipped the care package today w/o them. In fact, I didn't find any reasonable knobs to go on them, so didn't include them either. But I'll bet these from Amazon would fit nicely.

TJ - I suspect the linkage is bent. I've seen several cases like that where the door wouldn't lock with the key or even unlock with the key although it would with the button/knob. But I have the links if needed, so we can get you going one way or another.

As for the locks, it is very easy to change out the locks themselves and you can order lock/key sets cheaply.

[tjmac]

TJ's 1983 has the pin locks, and hopefully has the linkage in the doors as I shipped the care package today w/o them. In fact, I didn't find any reasonable knobs to go on them, so didn't include them either. But I'll bet these from Amazon would fit nicely.

TJ - I suspect the linkage is bent. I've seen several cases like that where the door wouldn't lock with the key or even unlock with the key although it would with the button/knob. But I have the links if needed, so we can get you going one way or another.

As for the locks, it is very easy to change out the locks themselves and you can order lock/key sets cheaply.

Wrote up a detail of a recent battery cable, relay and starter replacement. Put it in the resources page, but linking it since I want most of my changes to be documented here.

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Noobie-Guide-to-Replacing-Battery-Cables-Starter-Relay-and-PMGR-Starter-tp138679.html