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What maximum power inverter for 1G alternator


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Might want to check your relay wiring. Isn’t that a permanent positive and switched positive you have wired there? The original black wire on that relay should go to your starter positive terminal.

Your black inverter wire should be to the negative battery post or grounded on the chassis.

Ok, I’ll check that.

I tested (light 12V tester) the negative pole (truck not running) and it appeared to be permanently grounded.

:nabble_anim_confused:

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Ok, I’ll check that.

I tested (light 12V tester) the negative pole (truck not running) and it appeared to be permanently grounded.

:nabble_anim_confused:

I don't think I've ever seen a relay wired like that.

The red wire is hot all the time off the battery, and the black wire will be hot when the relay is triggered...

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I don't think I've ever seen a relay wired like that.

The red wire is hot all the time off the battery, and the black wire will be hot when the relay is triggered...

That’s logical, yep.

I didn’t think ahead when I tested, looking for a good ground.

:nabble_smiley_blush:

Will verify what’s going on tomorrow.

Thanks for taking care of me!

:nabble_smiley_whistling:

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That’s logical, yep.

I didn’t think ahead when I tested, looking for a good ground.

:nabble_smiley_blush:

Will verify what’s going on tomorrow.

Thanks for taking care of me!

:nabble_smiley_whistling:

We (as a community) are all here to see others succeed no matter how large or small the project.

Having an inverter will allow you to literally take the show on the road.

If you're still concerned about your alternator output and want to "keep it stock" with a 1G I posted a link to the factory available 70-100A 1G alternator from Rockauto earlier today. "What alternator is this?"

Looking forward to see it up and running! :nabble_smiley_good:

(edit link to thread)

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I thought about an inverter at one time, and thought I'd have a dedicated battery for it.

Wouldn't drain the truck battery if the truck wasn't running.

You'se guys are talking about some cool stuff! :nabble_smiley_teeth:

I figured if I needed 1500 watts, I'd get a 3000 watt inverter.

Larry has a good point about a pure sine inverter.

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I thought about an inverter at one time, and thought I'd have a dedicated battery for it.

Wouldn't drain the truck battery if the truck wasn't running.

You'se guys are talking about some cool stuff! :nabble_smiley_teeth:

I figured if I needed 1500 watts, I'd get a 3000 watt inverter.

Larry has a good point about a pure sine inverter.

Jeff - The ground you are seeing is the starter motor. But it isn't where you want your ground to be as it isn't a good ground, and not ground at all when starting. However, just take that wire to the battery's ground.

Dane - Most inverters I've looked at are good for twice their rating a startup. The 3KW one I got from Jim will start 6KW worth of load, but won't carry more than 3KW for long. And it isn't a pure sine wave, but everything I've ever tried on it has worked, save for the power supply for the Microsoft tablet. All else, the compressor, a Keurig, and power supplies for this Dell laptop and my Sony camera, as well as Ridgid battery chargers have all worked.

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Jeff - The ground you are seeing is the starter motor. But it isn't where you want your ground to be as it isn't a good ground, and not ground at all when starting. However, just take that wire to the battery's ground.

Dane - Most inverters I've looked at are good for twice their rating a startup. The 3KW one I got from Jim will start 6KW worth of load, but won't carry more than 3KW for long. And it isn't a pure sine wave, but everything I've ever tried on it has worked, save for the power supply for the Microsoft tablet. All else, the compressor, a Keurig, and power supplies for this Dell laptop and my Sony camera, as well as Ridgid battery chargers have all worked.

Ok Gentlemen, let’s admit that it wasn't my brightest idea…

Anyway, ground connexion now fixed, directly on the battery negative pole.

BFAC5FEC-80DD-43A0-8B81-AEAA54217E6F.jpeg.2a13f7dae40a04800bf2806c592af5b5.jpeg

Jeff - The ground you are seeing is the starter motor. But it isn't where you want your ground to be as it isn't a good ground, and not ground at all when starting.

Gary, we architects can fortunately rely on engineers for these trivial mechanical and electrical questions.

But some if us probably have a bit of engineering genes, and are interested to understand the basics (no more, thanks).:nabble_smiley_evil: That’s my case.

So, I sketched a simplistic diagram and now understand that I was seeing the Starter ground.

It’s a chance that the light tester has a good resistance, otherwise jumping the Relay could have start the engine. :nabble_smiley_wink:

More seriously, I am wondering why there is not uniquely the starter circuit linked to this Relay pole.

What other circuits have to run only when the Relay trigger is closed?

:nabble_thinking-26_orig:

4C4C072F-9346-46ED-924D-6E619946AF11.jpeg.8a006c18f6c8112c3494474eaa2e3463.jpeg

516E28A7-1970-4C63-B3E2-0A0AB80DAEC6.jpeg.3dd407a7ee80d5cfac4b47c15be4f7fc.jpeg

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Ok Gentlemen, let’s admit that it wasn't my brightest idea…

Anyway, ground connexion now fixed, directly on the battery negative pole.

Jeff - The ground you are seeing is the starter motor. But it isn't where you want your ground to be as it isn't a good ground, and not ground at all when starting.

Gary, we architects can fortunately rely on engineers for these trivial mechanical and electrical questions.

But some if us probably have a bit of engineering genes, and are interested to understand the basics (no more, thanks).:nabble_smiley_evil: That’s my case.

So, I sketched a simplistic diagram and now understand that I was seeing the Starter ground.

It’s a chance that the light tester has a good resistance, otherwise jumping the Relay could have start the engine. :nabble_smiley_wink:

More seriously, I am wondering why there is not uniquely the starter circuit linked to this Relay pole.

What other circuits have to run only when the Relay trigger is closed?

:nabble_thinking-26_orig:

Jeff, your diagram has the fusible links backwards.

The photo shows them on the battery positive lug of the relay (as they should be!)

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Ok Gentlemen, let’s admit that it wasn't my brightest idea…

Anyway, ground connexion now fixed, directly on the battery negative pole.

Jeff - The ground you are seeing is the starter motor. But it isn't where you want your ground to be as it isn't a good ground, and not ground at all when starting.

Gary, we architects can fortunately rely on engineers for these trivial mechanical and electrical questions.

But some if us probably have a bit of engineering genes, and are interested to understand the basics (no more, thanks).:nabble_smiley_evil: That’s my case.

So, I sketched a simplistic diagram and now understand that I was seeing the Starter ground.

It’s a chance that the light tester has a good resistance, otherwise jumping the Relay could have start the engine. :nabble_smiley_wink:

More seriously, I am wondering why there is not uniquely the starter circuit linked to this Relay pole.

What other circuits have to run only when the Relay trigger is closed?

:nabble_thinking-26_orig:

Yes, the test light has a relatively high resistance and the very low resistance of the starter acts as a good ground for the test light. But it wouldn't be a good ground for the inverter as it has a much lower effective resistance. In fact, a big enough inverter might actually cause the starter to turn, although not enough to start the engine.

As for circuits that are powered off the rear post of the relay, I don't believe there should be any. The '85 EVTM doesn't show any and I can't think of anything that should be powered then. Perhaps one or more of the fuse links have accidentally been moved there at some point?

Can you determine the colors of the wires? Show us a close-up pic?

I might not get back to this very quickly as my grandtwins are visiting and I'm spending most of my time with them. But others can help. And I'll be back as soon as I can.

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