What maximum power inverter for 1G alternator

[BigBrother-84]

Any of the 3G conversion threads have links to the Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations ammeter conversion.

I admit to have spied couple of these 3G threads, but since it is not in my projects list (for the moment), I didn't noticed this link to Rocketman's site.

So, this famous "look as OEM" modern voltmeter exists! And not too expansive.

I'll send him a mail, just in case he still has on hand the Cory's one. We never know!

I imagine that it will require some modification to the cluster printed circuit, even for a 1G monitoring, am I right?

If so, is there a thread about it?

[Gary Lewis]

Any of the 3G conversion threads have links to the Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations ammeter conversion.

I admit to have spied couple of these 3G threads, but since it is not in my projects list (for the moment), I didn't noticed this link to Rocketman's site.

So, this famous "look as OEM" modern voltmeter exists! And not too expansive.

I'll send him a mail, just in case he still has on hand the Cory's one. We never know!

I imagine that it will require some modification to the cluster printed circuit, even for a 1G monitoring, am I right?

If so, is there a thread about it?

You don’t need to modify the cluster, just the wires to it from the shunt. Basically you will have to wire it as shown in the 3G pages.

I’ll try to post that bit here in the morning, but you are going to have to do about 2/3 of the wiring to go with a 3G in order to put the voltmeter in, so maybe you should go whole hog?

[Gary Lewis]

You don’t need to modify the cluster, just the wires to it from the shunt. Basically you will have to wire it as shown in the 3G pages.

I’ll try to post that bit here in the morning, but you are going to have to do about 2/3 of the wiring to go with a 3G in order to put the voltmeter in, so maybe you should go whole hog?

My recommendation for how to wire for the voltmeter is as below.

The ammeter, soon to be voltmeter, is already connected to the battery via Ckt 655, which is the R/O wire that connects at Splice 203 to the positive end of the shunt. The cut on Ckt 654, the Y/LG above S202, is to disconnect the negative side of the voltmeter from the shunt. The relay comes on with key-on power to provide a ground to the voltmeter - otherwise the voltmeter will be pulling ~.08A at all times.

But you don't actually have to move the alternator's output from S202 to the starter relay as shown if you keep the 1G. (The schematic is from the 3G page.) You will have roughly a .2V drop across the shut when charging the battery at 60A, but you have that today so it isn't an issue. (However, when doing the 3G swap you really DO need to make that wiring change when you put a 3G in as the shunt probably won't handle 130A.)

[BigBrother-84]

My recommendation for how to wire for the voltmeter is as below.

The ammeter, soon to be voltmeter, is already connected to the battery via Ckt 655, which is the R/O wire that connects at Splice 203 to the positive end of the shunt. The cut on Ckt 654, the Y/LG above S202, is to disconnect the negative side of the voltmeter from the shunt. The relay comes on with key-on power to provide a ground to the voltmeter - otherwise the voltmeter will be pulling ~.08A at all times.

But you don't actually have to move the alternator's output from S202 to the starter relay as shown if you keep the 1G. (The schematic is from the 3G page.) You will have roughly a .2V drop across the shut when charging the battery at 60A, but you have that today so it isn't an issue. (However, when doing the 3G swap you really DO need to make that wiring change when you put a 3G in as the shunt probably won't handle 130A.)

Thanks Gary!

I sent an email to Rocketman and we'll see if he still has the Cory's core in stock.

If not, I'll send him mine.

[BigBrother-84]

You want the F100-80V. It's $50 with a couple of weeks turnaround. https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all I don't know about any added shipping to Canada.

Gary could better tell you how well the modified ammeter works. He might even have a spare that you could figure out the round robin to get an exchanged one in your hands.

He might have one in-stock:nabble_crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig:

I sent him one to convert but he was extremely backed up at the time, and he had it for several weeks in queue, and then I went and sold my truck:nabble_smiley_cry:

I told him to keep it. I had several extras at the time anyway.

Cory, I just sent you an email.

Got an answer from Rocketman, he is asking for some information regarding your order.

[BigBrother-84]

Okay, so add another 5A to the load on the alternator, as I expect a cooler will be running for extended periods, unlike a cigarette lighter which is typically drawing for maybe 15 seconds?

Any of the 3G conversion threads have links to the Rocketman's Classic Cougar Innovations ammeter conversion.

He only works on original Ford meters but you could pull one from a junkyard or eBay and have that one refurbished.

You want the F100-80V. It's $50 with a couple of weeks turnaround. https://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all I don't know about any added shipping to Canada.

Gary could better tell you how well the modified ammeter works. He might even have a spare that you could figure out the round robin to get an exchanged one in your hands.

If you intend to locate the inverter in the back seat you need to count the distance both ways, because electrons 'run' all the way back to ground.

Before, I had only considered that the wire might be 10' long and that 10Ga.+ XT60 would be fine for that.

I also need to consider that you're never likely to max out a 500W inverter for what you intend.

(I chose 500 because that seems to be a sweet spot where there seem to be lots of models and features available)

A smaller 400W inverter should be fine with 10Ga. wire. The chart shows 36A @ 25' and 400W is less than that.

There seem to be a few that are pure sine wave and have a couple of USB ports for charging things like phones and drones as well as the usual 2x NEMA 5-15R sockets.

Ready for inverter, wired!

From the solenoid:

Through the passenger grommet:

Under the carpet, ending behind the rear bench seat:

I bought this model, enough for my needs:

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ready for inverter, wired!

From the solenoid:

Through the passenger grommet:

Under the carpet, ending behind the rear bench seat:

I bought this model, enough for my needs:

Nice!

Good job Jeff.

[Gary Lewis]

Nice!

Good job Jeff.

I like it!

But id there a fuse? And did you come off of both sides of the relay where the blue arrows are?

[BigBrother-84]

I like it!

But id there a fuse? And did you come off of both sides of the relay where the blue arrows are?

I’ll see if there is a fuse coming with the inverter (not received yet).

If not, I’ll fuse the positive wire.

And yes, the black and the red wires start from each side of the relay. Direct positive and direct ground.

I used #6 wires, to have the least resistance as possible, since there is around 12’-13’ between the power source and the inverter (crew cab…).

[Gsmblue]

I’ll see if there is a fuse coming with the inverter (not received yet).

If not, I’ll fuse the positive wire.

And yes, the black and the red wires start from each side of the relay. Direct positive and direct ground.

I used #6 wires, to have the least resistance as possible, since there is around 12’-13’ between the power source and the inverter (crew cab…).

Might want to check your relay wiring. Isn’t that a permanent positive and switched positive you have wired there? The original black wire on that relay should go to your starter positive terminal.

Your black inverter wire should be to the negative battery post or grounded on the chassis.