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Yukon, Motive, or Richmond


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Hey fellas so after 6 years of planning and mainly collecting parts for Big Red it’s finally time to change the gears on the old girl. Originally it has 3.08 gear ratio open I was gonna go with a 3.55 but I’m leaning more towards a 3.73 ratio with a limited slip carrier from ford racing.

Now you guys that have more experience what is the better brand I have read on other forums that Richmond has noisy gears. Yukon could be repackaged items. Motive I haven’t read to much on but I’ve never really for of them. Which one would you buy and why?

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Yukon is great, I've heard good things about Motive too. Never messed with richmond personally so I can't say on those.

Had my 8" rear set up by a guy who asked what gears I was using, and said if I brought him Richmond, he wouldn't install them. Said they make so much noise that people think he screwed up, and were bringing them back for him to "fix". I have a 4.11 diff I bought from a guy that was rebuilt, using Richmond gears, and the rear was very noisy. Whether it was the gears or something else, I don't know, but switching back to the 3.25s it was quiet as a mouse. I think the 3.25s were made by Strange.

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Had my 8" rear set up by a guy who asked what gears I was using, and said if I brought him Richmond, he wouldn't install them. Said they make so much noise that people think he screwed up, and were bringing them back for him to "fix". I have a 4.11 diff I bought from a guy that was rebuilt, using Richmond gears, and the rear was very noisy. Whether it was the gears or something else, I don't know, but switching back to the 3.25s it was quiet as a mouse. I think the 3.25s were made by Strange.

My one and only ring and pinion change was Yukon gears in the high pinion Dana 44 I put in my Bronco last year. I'm happy with them and would go back to them. But no info on anyone else.

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Hey guys just an update I’m needed going with a Yukon gear set for the ring and pinion.

Another question when I do the gear change what would be needed so the speedo read somewhat correctly.

generally when you change the final gear ration you will affect the speedometers rate of speed and also the odometer by a relative percentage. if you go up in gear ratio ten percent then the speedo will read ten percent higher and so will the odometer. the fine tuning is done with a gear on the end of the speedometer cable where it connects to the trans/ transfer case. commonly you might have anywhere from a 15 to a 21 tooth gear. higher gear numbers will require a higher drive gear for the speedo. and vice versa. I'm doing the same but because I changed from a three speed to a four speed with od and it is more than I can correct with the speedo gear alone. so, I'm figuring out which rear gear to use. I want the benefit of the od so I want to keep as low of a rear gear as practical.

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generally when you change the final gear ration you will affect the speedometers rate of speed and also the odometer by a relative percentage. if you go up in gear ratio ten percent then the speedo will read ten percent higher and so will the odometer. the fine tuning is done with a gear on the end of the speedometer cable where it connects to the trans/ transfer case. commonly you might have anywhere from a 15 to a 21 tooth gear. higher gear numbers will require a higher drive gear for the speedo. and vice versa. I'm doing the same but because I changed from a three speed to a four speed with od and it is more than I can correct with the speedo gear alone. so, I'm figuring out which rear gear to use. I want the benefit of the od so I want to keep as low of a rear gear as practical.

I can't recall who made them, but I had a speedometer gear correction box (set of gears to increase/decrease the effective ratio) that I had on my Shelby GT350.

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