Engine locks up after cranking

[TheWeldingFords]

I forgot to mention this but I have not cats because of the previous owner and I put in a new exhaust a few weeks ago (basically headers back into a dynomax turbo muffler that then dumps out the passenger side before the rear tire) I don't think it would be clogged up with less than a mile of driving it and maybe 30 minutes of idling in total.

I have reversed what I have done and it still didn't fix it.

I tested fuel pressure to make sure and it took a while messing around with my gauge but I finally got

the gauge to work and it only ended up reading 10 psi, which I know is too low for efi which needs somewhere around 45 psi.

I can hear the high and low pressure pumps kicking on and and those are all new,

the only thing that isn't new for the fuel system is the FPR, the rail, injectors, and the tank.

Could a faulty FPR be causing only 10 psi?

Maybe even the stalling out after driving and not being able to go over 2k rpm when driving (it revs past that fine when it ran)?

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I tested fuel pressure to make sure and it took a while messing around with my gauge but I finally got

the gauge to work and it only ended up reading 10 psi, which I know is too low for efi which needs somewhere around 45 psi.

I can hear the high and low pressure pumps kicking on and and those are all new,

the only thing that isn't new for the fuel system is the FPR, the rail, injectors, and the tank.

Could a faulty FPR be causing only 10 psi?

Maybe even the stalling out after driving and not being able to go over 2k rpm when driving (it revs past that fine when it ran)?

Disconnect the vacuum line from the FPR and look and smell for fuel.

The FPR may have failed without a leaking diaphragm, but that I the most common failure

[TheWeldingFords]

Disconnect the vacuum line from the FPR and look and smell for fuel.

The FPR may have failed without a leaking diaphragm, but that I the most common failure

After replacing the IACV and the FPR it now idles and I'm currently working on timing it

[ArdWrknTrk]

a few days ago, when I was timing it I was getting detonation and read into the egr and what it does to help so I removed the plate hoping it would help.

Where did you have the timing set, Alex?

It's really hard to have detonation without the engine being under load.

Are you sure the spark wasn't so far out it was firing with the valves open?

Check that TDC compression #1 matches the timing mark on the damper.

Pull the SPOUT and start at 10° with the engine at operating temperature and the rpms where the sticker says (probably 700 in neutral)

[TheWeldingFords]

a few days ago, when I was timing it I was getting detonation and read into the egr and what it does to help so I removed the plate hoping it would help.

Where did you have the timing set, Alex?

It's really hard to have detonation without the engine being under load.

Are you sure the spark wasn't so far out it was firing with the valves open?

Check that TDC compression #1 matches the timing mark on the damper.

Pull the SPOUT and start at 10° with the engine at operating temperature and the rpms where the sticker says (probably 700 in neutral)

After letting it warm up (kinda had to guess I don't think that gauge works) with

the SPOUT removed I set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC at 700 rpm and then I shut it off

and plugged it back in let it idle for a bit so the computer could relearn.

While it was running check for codes and got 11(all good) but I also got the codes 10 and 20. (kinda weird, I was using my code reader so I don't know how it got zeros.)

Engine idled nicely but now with acceleration it has small pops and still wont drive over 2k rpm(feels like lack of power)

[ArdWrknTrk]

After letting it warm up (kinda had to guess I don't think that gauge works) with

the SPOUT removed I set the timing to 10 degrees BTDC at 700 rpm and then I shut it off

and plugged it back in let it idle for a bit so the computer could relearn.

While it was running check for codes and got 11(all good) but I also got the codes 10 and 20. (kinda weird, I was using my code reader so I don't know how it got zeros.)

Engine idled nicely but now with acceleration it has small pops and still wont drive over 2k rpm(feels like lack of power)

Unfortunately I think it's time to open the computer and check for leaky or blown capacitors.

There's only three and if you have a soldering iron (or know someone who does) you can buy a 'kit' for about $12 (for $2.50 worth of parts)

I can point you to a recent YouTube video on the Watch Wes Work channel if you see any damage.

He was working on a 460 camper but the computers all look the same inside.

[TheWeldingFords]

Unfortunately I think it's time to open the computer and check for leaky or blown capacitors.

There's only three and if you have a soldering iron (or know someone who does) you can buy a 'kit' for about $12 (for $2.50 worth of parts)

I can point you to a recent YouTube video on the Watch Wes Work channel if you see any damage.

He was working on a 460 camper but the computers all look the same inside.

Okay, I will open it up tomorrow and see what I find.

The video and parts would be helpful if you can find that.

I've got a soldering gun and plenty of solder so it shouldn't be an issue.

Do you know what I would need to do to test my temp gauge function and where I can find the sensor for it?

This truck's wiring is a mess from the previous owner and it's got lots of janky repairs.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Okay, I will open it up tomorrow and see what I find.

The video and parts would be helpful if you can find that.

I've got a soldering gun and plenty of solder so it shouldn't be an issue.

Do you know what I would need to do to test my temp gauge function and where I can find the sensor for it?

This truck's wiring is a mess from the previous owner and it's got lots of janky repairs.

About 17:00 in if you don't care for the diagnostics, but I think you could gain something from that part too.

If it had Wes scratching his head and tearing his hair out it's worth the watch....

Set of quality Nichicon capacitors: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275574674481?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=xoYngVoKTuO&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=V52-0s-ZTpm&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Okay, I will open it up tomorrow and see what I find.

The video and parts would be helpful if you can find that.

I've got a soldering gun and plenty of solder so it shouldn't be an issue.

Do you know what I would need to do to test my temp gauge function and where I can find the sensor for it?

This truck's wiring is a mess from the previous owner and it's got lots of janky repairs.

You have both a water temp sender and a temp sensor for the computer....

The sender gives a variable reading to your gauge, has a red with white stripe wire close to the distributor.

The ECT sensor has a light green/white wire and a black/yellow wire. It's near the front of the passenger valve cover (above the thermostat)

To test the gauge function ground the red/white wire then go in the cab and briefly turn the key to 'run'. The temp should **slowly** max out.

Turn the key off and remove the wire from ground.

You don't want to short out the gauge for long or you can damage it.

**Edit, just to be clear. The needle won't ever 'snap' awake. These gauges are well damped**

[mat in tn]

Okay, I will open it up tomorrow and see what I find.

The video and parts would be helpful if you can find that.

I've got a soldering gun and plenty of solder so it shouldn't be an issue.

Do you know what I would need to do to test my temp gauge function and where I can find the sensor for it?

This truck's wiring is a mess from the previous owner and it's got lots of janky repairs.

another possibility that sort of fits the symptoms isa leaky (stuck open) injector. this will bleed off pressure and more if there are more leaking. in extreme cases it can flood a cylinder with fuel if the pump runs enough. mostly in modified (tampered with) systems. engines are compressors but they are NOT pumps.