ReneH Posted May 7, 2023 Author Share Posted May 7, 2023 I would see about a different brand, possibly someone on here has experience with some that fit and seal well (I personally don't want headers on Darth, past experience on two cars and fighting leaks). I had Hedman Headers on my 1964 Falcon, and when the original ones on my 1966 Shelby turned to Swiss cheese I put a set of their large tube ones on. Be careful in ordering, some companies list the same headers for 289/302 and 351W, the 351W exhaust ports are a bit larger, which means the headers have less metal around the ports to clamp the gasket. Ok...thanks. I think then it's better to rework and optimize mine...it sounds, that this is a general problem with stainless steel headers... So it also seems that mine are maybe made for 351W, cause thenports are bigger than the ones in my heads... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted May 7, 2023 Author Share Posted May 7, 2023 Ok...thanks. I think then it's better to rework and optimize mine...it sounds, that this is a general problem with stainless steel headers... So it also seems that mine are maybe made for 351W, cause thenports are bigger than the ones in my heads... Maybe it's the best idea to build an adapter plate, fixed with sunk screws and mount the headers on this plate to compensate the differences... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted May 7, 2023 Author Share Posted May 7, 2023 I would see about a different brand, possibly someone on here has experience with some that fit and seal well (I personally don't want headers on Darth, past experience on two cars and fighting leaks). I had Hedman Headers on my 1964 Falcon, and when the original ones on my 1966 Shelby turned to Swiss cheese I put a set of their large tube ones on. Be careful in ordering, some companies list the same headers for 289/302 and 351W, the 351W exhaust ports are a bit larger, which means the headers have less metal around the ports to clamp the gasket. What threat size does the mainfold screws have? I want to search for types with a small head and inner drive like torx or something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 7, 2023 Share Posted May 7, 2023 What threat size does the mainfold screws have? I want to search for types with a small head and inner drive like torx or something... Rene', 3/8" 16 threads to the inch. Many headers used a 12 point head with a washer face. Here are a bunch of different styles: https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F8+header+bolts&oq=&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCQgAEEUYOxjCAzIJCAAQRRg7GMIDMgkIARBFGDsYwgMyCQgCEEUYOxjCAzIJCAMQRRg7GMIDMgkIBBBFGDsYwgMyCQgFEEUYOxjCAzIJCAYQRRg7GMIDMgkIBxBFGDsYwgPSAQ8xOTM5MTA3MTQxajBqMTWoAgiwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#oshopproduct=pid:15582600736614592848,oid:15582600736614592848,iid:13440133994599715655,pvt:hg&oshop=apv&pvs=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted May 8, 2023 Author Share Posted May 8, 2023 Rene', 3/8" 16 threads to the inch. Many headers used a 12 point head with a washer face. Here are a bunch of different styles: https://www.google.com/search?q=3%2F8+header+bolts&oq=&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUqCQgAEEUYOxjCAzIJCAAQRRg7GMIDMgkIARBFGDsYwgMyCQgCEEUYOxjCAzIJCAMQRRg7GMIDMgkIBBBFGDsYwgMyCQgFEEUYOxjCAzIJCAYQRRg7GMIDMgkIBxBFGDsYwgPSAQ8xOTM5MTA3MTQxajBqMTWoAgiwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#oshopproduct=pid:15582600736614592848,oid:15582600736614592848,iid:13440133994599715655,pvt:hg&oshop=apv&pvs=0 Ok, thanks Bill! What do you think about that? Summit 1 The washers seems perfect for the small space between the outlets and the screw heads... These seem to short in my understanding. Currently I have 1" length screws. Summit 2 But again, only an assessment...is it more possible, that the noise comes from the exhaust header(s) or from the cam/lifters? What would you assume? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 8, 2023 Share Posted May 8, 2023 Ok, thanks Bill! What do you think about that? Summit 1 The washers seems perfect for the small space between the outlets and the screw heads... These seem to short in my understanding. Currently I have 1" length screws. Summit 2 But again, only an assessment...is it more possible, that the noise comes from the exhaust header(s) or from the cam/lifters? What would you assume? Rene' 1" might be long enough to bottom in the holes. From your video it is very hard to say which is the source of the noise. One thing to look for, an exhaust leak will give a carbon trail at the leak where a valve train noise will not. One other item, make sure all the spark plugs are seated properly, a loose plug will also "tick", and I know the right (passenger) side is a pain on those engines (son had a 1986 F150). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 8, 2023 Share Posted May 8, 2023 Rene' 1" might be long enough to bottom in the holes. From your video it is very hard to say which is the source of the noise. One thing to look for, an exhaust leak will give a carbon trail at the leak where a valve train noise will not. One other item, make sure all the spark plugs are seated properly, a loose plug will also "tick", and I know the right (passenger) side is a pain on those engines (son had a 1986 F150). I can't tell from the photos how thick the flange is on those headers. I'm always very careful to check that my bolts don't bottom in the head and punch through. (saw that once, no way to repair the head ) I've found that using a length of hose as a stethoscope works well to find the source of an exhaust tick. (Currently #8 on my truck. But I'm remiss to pull the manifold because I'm afraid of busting off a corroded stud in the head) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted May 8, 2023 Author Share Posted May 8, 2023 I can't tell from the photos how thick the flange is on those headers. I'm always very careful to check that my bolts don't bottom in the head and punch through. (saw that once, no way to repair the head ) I've found that using a length of hose as a stethoscope works well to find the source of an exhaust tick. (Currently #8 on my truck. But I'm remiss to pull the manifold because I'm afraid of busting off a corroded stud in the head) Yes, I have to measure it. But I also need washers, cause the holes in the headers are too big, so I get some additional space. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 8, 2023 Share Posted May 8, 2023 I can't tell from the photos how thick the flange is on those headers. I'm always very careful to check that my bolts don't bottom in the head and punch through. (saw that once, no way to repair the head ) I've found that using a length of hose as a stethoscope works well to find the source of an exhaust tick. (Currently #8 on my truck. But I'm remiss to pull the manifold because I'm afraid of busting off a corroded stud in the head) I have one on #5 on Darth, but once everything is hot it stops. I have a pretty good inspector here, he will try to get me in while everything is hot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReneH Posted May 8, 2023 Author Share Posted May 8, 2023 I have one on #5 on Darth, but once everything is hot it stops. I have a pretty good inspector here, he will try to get me in while everything is hot. OK, maybe I have had asked this before...but is there any way to check the lifters without unmounting the top of the engine? As I'm waiting for the new bolts and the new gaskets from Summit, I'm a bit impatient...... As it's not sure, that the sound comes from the exhaust, I'm thinking about to pull the cable from the distributor and crank the engine. But I'm not sure, if the rpm is too low to hear if a lifter stucks.... I should put a electric motor at the main bolt of the crankshaft and rotate the engine without ignition and fuel... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts