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Ferdinand - '85 Bronco 351W XLT "Phoenix" rebuild project...


Ferdinand

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...a dial back timing light?

If you did you would not need a timing tape or all the paint marks to see on the crank.

Yes, you still have to start at 0°, so you need SOME marks. IMO, it's always easier (even though I have a good Snap-On advance timing light) to read the factory mark on the balancer at the factory time.

I had a good SnapOn light also up till about 2 months ago.

I had some tools grow legs and walk out and that was one of them.

I would just mark TDC and the balancer and use the knob to find the numbers.

Think was on the drag car I had no power for the light and the one I bought works like crap unless it is dark out.

Have you checked to see if you have all the holes firing?

Could pull 1 plug wire off at a time to see if they all drop the RPM the same amount.

If 1 or more don't, known as a dead hole, then they are not helping the motor run.

Dave ----

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TONS of helpful thoughts guys! Thank you‼️

I will be working through some reading tonight on the testing of the alternator that Gary referred to that Steve has put together.

I will try to get replies out to the questions here a bit later tonight also.

Trading my garage time for some research tonight. Hoping to get a good deal of garage time in tomorrow 🤞🏼.

Motivation is in good supply when I am making progress :nabble_smiley_good:

Thanks again everyone! (now if I can just find that info. Steve had on the alternator 🤣)

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TONS of helpful thoughts guys! Thank you‼️

I will be working through some reading tonight on the testing of the alternator that Gary referred to that Steve has put together.

I will try to get replies out to the questions here a bit later tonight also.

Trading my garage time for some research tonight. Hoping to get a good deal of garage time in tomorrow 🤞🏼.

Motivation is in good supply when I am making progress :nabble_smiley_good:

Thanks again everyone! (now if I can just find that info. Steve had on the alternator 🤣)

In case you don't find it: https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/897843

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I had a good SnapOn light also up till about 2 months ago.

I had some tools grow legs and walk out and that was one of them.

I buy used Snap-On tools on eBay if they're 1/2 the new price (on https://store.snapon.com/ ) or less. For electronics, they have to be closer to 1/3 price because those aren't warranted - you have to pay for repairs. But I only buy the ones that are guaranteed by the eBay seller to be in good working order. That's where my timing light came from (even though I was working & had a regular Snap-On man at that time) years ago. It came in the original plastic case, but I don't enough room for that in my tool boxes, so it's crammed into the junk drawer:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/940426/thumbnail/14bulk.jpg

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I had a good SnapOn light also up till about 2 months ago.

I had some tools grow legs and walk out and that was one of them.

I buy used Snap-On tools on eBay if they're 1/2 the new price (on https://store.snapon.com/ ) or less. For electronics, they have to be closer to 1/3 price because those aren't warranted - you have to pay for repairs. But I only buy the ones that are guaranteed by the eBay seller to be in good working order. That's where my timing light came from (even though I was working & had a regular Snap-On man at that time) years ago. It came in the original plastic case, but I don't enough room for that in my tool boxes, so it's crammed into the junk drawer:

https://supermotors.net/getfile/940426/thumbnail/14bulk.jpg

Thanks for the link I will check it out.

My light was still in the case and with other tools in cases, sawz all also taken, is on a shelf in the work shop and above that my electric drills (maybe 4?) not in cases where all taken.

What set it all off I went to get my cordless off the work bench in the garage and could not find it or the charger that I never move. Went for the corded drill and found them missing.

Being I don't go in the garage for weeks at a time I don't know when they left.

When I need a timing light I may also check with some of the pawn shops around here to see what they have. I am sure that's where the tools went but who knows?

Dave ----

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A quick question gentlemen and then I hope to respond at length on progress and input tonight after worship.

I got the Bronco down the driveway and back yesterday but it is still stalling A LOT when in gear. Also, it can BARELY pull the small hill to get back in my garage.

I don't remember putting the kick down lever back on my '82 when I built it (25 years ago), but maybe I did. That's too long for me to remember :nabble_smiley_uh:

Is it possible the seeming lack of power is from the C6 not "downshifting"?

I put it all the way down in 1st and it seemed to help a little, but I was thinking that it was more the engine barely running was the bigger culprit. (Sorry, but I didn't capture any footage of the drive) Maybe next time if we can't solve this before hand.

If I do need to put the kick down rod back on, does anyone have any suggestions as to how to lengthen it? I have need to extend it 5". (+4" for the air gap intake and +1" for the carb spacer)

I have a few ideas but it seems to me that the weight of it may be significant since it is helped by a spring. (I had thought about using a piece of copper pipe but am curious if that would be too heavy. :nabble_anim_confused:

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A quick question gentlemen and then I hope to respond at length on progress and input tonight after worship.

I got the Bronco down the driveway and back yesterday but it is still stalling A LOT when in gear. Also, it can BARELY pull the small hill to get back in my garage.

I don't remember putting the kick down lever back on my '82 when I built it (25 years ago), but maybe I did. That's too long for me to remember :nabble_smiley_uh:

Is it possible the seeming lack of power is from the C6 not "downshifting"?

I put it all the way down in 1st and it seemed to help a little, but I was thinking that it was more the engine barely running was the bigger culprit. (Sorry, but I didn't capture any footage of the drive) Maybe next time if we can't solve this before hand.

If I do need to put the kick down rod back on, does anyone have any suggestions as to how to lengthen it? I have need to extend it 5". (+4" for the air gap intake and +1" for the carb spacer)

I have a few ideas but it seems to me that the weight of it may be significant since it is helped by a spring. (I had thought about using a piece of copper pipe but am curious if that would be too heavy. :nabble_anim_confused:

You don't need the kickdown lever. Rusty didn't have one, but I could pull it down manually with the shift lever.

Do you have the choke connected yet? It was obviously closed in the earlier video, and if it is not coming off the engine is not going to run well at all.

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You don't need the kickdown lever. Rusty didn't have one, but I could pull it down manually with the shift lever.

Do you have the choke connected yet? It was obviously closed in the earlier video, and if it is not coming off the engine is not going to run well at all.

Thanks Gary! I will work on getting the choke wired up tonight. I'm on the hunt to remove any variable I can!

I realize I will be far from "tuned" until I get the exhaust on and running an air cleaner but I should be able to get a lot closer than I am right now! 🙃

Will report in later tonight. Thanks again!!

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Thanks Gary! I will work on getting the choke wired up tonight. I'm on the hunt to remove any variable I can!

I realize I will be far from "tuned" until I get the exhaust on and running an air cleaner but I should be able to get a lot closer than I am right now! 🙃

Will report in later tonight. Thanks again!!

I don't remember all you did. Have you made sure your distributor is timed properly, as in, on the number one cylinder and the spark plug wires are in the correct firing order?

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I don't remember all you did. Have you made sure your distributor is timed properly, as in, on the number one cylinder and the spark plug wires are in the correct firing order?

I also have not heard if he went back over this as I think from what I hear from the video it is only hitting on six cly. 2 wires crossed.

This would also say the cross wires because of the popping out the carb & exh.

Dave ----

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