Rembrant Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 I am very pleased with the end result and it is in no way crowding the bypass hose now! Well that's interesting. I remember dealing with this and rerouting the bypass hose never occurred to me. I ran it straight up, same as stock, and then ran the lower hose right through the hole in that bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Evening Rembrant, Here is the barcode for what I used. Believe it or not it is just rattle can Duplicolor for wheels... Here is the link to get it from AMZ, but I buy it locally for a little less: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y6HMH92/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fKfkCbEZD3WAA I did use adhesion promoter for everything I shot that was plastic. Hope this helps. Good luck! I absolutely love the color. Excellent, thank you! I've been using a rattle can of DupliColor engine paint in the color of cast aluminum, and it has been really good. I've been using it for years on brackets and just about anything in general that is cast aluminum, and it hasn't let me down yet. Just have to make sure that the parts are clean. However, for this air cleaner cover, I thought yours looked great and has a bit more of a metallic look to it, which I like. I'm going to try it on a spare cover first and see how I like it in person. Thanks for the info, that's great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 So I started with trying to decide what to do with the alternator and bracket. The factory mount was way too crowded as you can see in the following pics: *My original alternator (the one I started out with which you can tell was new) got destroyed by the 400 gallons of water they used to put out the fire 😣 but it was also a double pulley. Since I am not putting the Thermactor Pump back on I opted for a single pulley. Evidently Ford figured out the crowding issue and changed the configuration all together. I am SUPER fortunate to have a boneyard Bronco setting in my yard. (My wife would state that differently, I am sure 😉) So, I thought it was the same bracket but I wanted to double check and man am I glad I did! Turns out the bracket is a completely different configuration. The large bolt (7/16"X14 thread, 6 1/2" long) is the main support bolt and pivot. It mounts to the upper, outer-most hole in the head. All the factory brackets (that I have seen) have a 3-point footing on the head. This helps with awesome support but I suppose it keeps you from flipping it around the wrong way to. 😬 I did a little trimming and modification. (Thanks for the inspiration Gary!!) And I feel like it will be a good work around. I am very pleased with the end result and it is in no way crowding the bypass hose now! I have a few pics if anyone is interested in the comparison between the two brackets. I did have to go get a 1" longer belt since the pivot point is about 1" further away from the centerline. I also was able to ditch a few of the clunky/shoddy bandaid brackets that Ford had on my application. The new mount and tensioner arm are much cleaner. I also got to work on the starter tonight. I was anxious to see if the High Torque mini-starter would give me more clearance: Pardon me while I park a Mac truck between my starter and header! WooHoo! Man that clearance is awesome! Not to mention how much easier it is to install the header! I did go ahead and rotate the assembly so I would have maximum clearance. I doing so though, you have to take the mounting flange off and put the one starter bolt in then bolt it back together because the bolt is too long to fit under the casting gusset of the starter housing: So the tally for the day is: starter, alternator, belts, hoses, headers, transmission lines, grounds & wiring hooked back up, core support installed, radiator & shroud, motor and transmission fill tubes, and I got all my fluids in (except the oil 🙃) A pic of where I finally stopped tonight: Man! am I excited to be making this kind of progress. I wanted to actually fire her up today, but of all things, I can't find the oil and additives I bought the other day! 🙄 I am hoping to turn the key tomorrow between church services. 🤞🏼 Wow! That's a LOT of work! Very well done! And I like the alternator bracket. It turned out well. Sure glad your wife is so accommodating about the spare. After a good night's sleep I'll bet you remember where you put the oil and additives, and you will get it fired today. Can't wait!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 I am very pleased with the end result and it is in no way crowding the bypass hose now! Well that's interesting. I remember dealing with this and rerouting the bypass hose never occurred to me. I ran it straight up, same as stock, and then ran the lower hose right through the hole in that bracket. Rembrant, (And Gary) Quick question, In my application, which is the inlet and outlet on my water pump setup? My heater core outlets are horizontal so, if I understand it correctly I'm thinking the one closest to the motor is the side that should come from the intake (hottest coolant). However, Rembrant, your hookup looks like it would reverse the loop or path the heated coolant is taking... Am I overthinking this? Things would get waaaay easier if I could just switch the two hoses at the pump and let the upper fitting from the water pump go to the intake (rerouting the bypass hose). That was one of the things I labeled well when I tore everything down, but I then realized that the hoses had been replaced and I'd like to verify from a factory perspective which is correct. It does seem odd that they conflict as badly as they do, but I thought that was correct since Ford seemed to have noticed and fixed that. With the donor bracket though, I can't easily run my heater core hose through the hole in the bracket like Rembrant did. (The donor Bronco had the hose through there as well but I forgot to look at that before I disconnected them. 🙃 Guidance would be appreciated. It seemed to run well before (not overheating anyway) and I've hooked it all back up the same way, but I want this to be dead right. More later. Thanks a million gentlemen!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 In my application, which is the inlet and outlet on my water pump setup? My heater core outlets are horizontal so, if I understand it correctly I'm thinking the one closest to the motor is the side that should come from the intake (hottest coolant). However, Rembrant, your hookup looks like it would reverse the loop or path the heated coolant is taking... Am I overthinking this? Things would get waaaay easier if I could just switch the two hoses at the pump and let the upper fitting from the water pump go to the intake (rerouting the bypass hose). I don't know which one is the inlet or the outlet, but the way my hoses are connected at the pump is the stock routing. If you look at your earlier pictures, your bypass hose originally went to the other fitting on the pump. Is that what you're asking? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 Rembrant, (And Gary) Quick question, In my application, which is the inlet and outlet on my water pump setup? My heater core outlets are horizontal so, if I understand it correctly I'm thinking the one closest to the motor is the side that should come from the intake (hottest coolant). However, Rembrant, your hookup looks like it would reverse the loop or path the heated coolant is taking... Am I overthinking this? Things would get waaaay easier if I could just switch the two hoses at the pump and let the upper fitting from the water pump go to the intake (rerouting the bypass hose). That was one of the things I labeled well when I tore everything down, but I then realized that the hoses had been replaced and I'd like to verify from a factory perspective which is correct. It does seem odd that they conflict as badly as they do, but I thought that was correct since Ford seemed to have noticed and fixed that. With the donor bracket though, I can't easily run my heater core hose through the hole in the bracket like Rembrant did. (The donor Bronco had the hose through there as well but I forgot to look at that before I disconnected them. 🙃 Guidance would be appreciated. It seemed to run well before (not overheating anyway) and I've hooked it all back up the same way, but I want this to be dead right. More later. Thanks a million gentlemen!!! I get confused with the terminology of "inlet" and "outlet". On the water pump you have two fittings, one for the bypass hose and one for the heater hose. I don't know which way the water is flowing at that point, but I agree that Cory/Remrant has his bypass hose connected the factory way. However, I'm not sure if it matters. As for the heater, it doesn't matter which way those hoses are connected as there's no flow direction given on the heater core. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 ...which is the inlet and outlet on my water pump setup?All the nipples on the WP are "in" to the pump.My heater core outlets are horizontal so, if I understand it correctly I'm thinking the one closest to the motor is the side that should come from the intake (hottest coolant).It doesn't matter which direction coolant flows through the core. But one hose MUST go to the pump, and the other MUST come from somewhere else on the engine (intake). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 30, 2018 Share Posted December 30, 2018 ...which is the inlet and outlet on my water pump setup?All the nipples on the WP are "in" to the pump.My heater core outlets are horizontal so, if I understand it correctly I'm thinking the one closest to the motor is the side that should come from the intake (hottest coolant).It doesn't matter which direction coolant flows through the core. But one hose MUST go to the pump, and the other MUST come from somewhere else on the engine (intake). You got a lot done. Good to see you got the converter bolted up right and sounded like with out to much work. You / we going to hear it run this year? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 31, 2018 Author Share Posted December 31, 2018 This afternoon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 31, 2018 Share Posted December 31, 2018 This afternoon... It lives!!!! Congrat's!!!! (By the way, you can embed the Youtube video here. Just go to it, click Share then Embed, and then click Copy to put the code on the clipboard. On here, click Embed and then Embed Tags and it'll insert Nabble embed tags where your cursor was. Click between the ">" and the " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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