Ferdinand Posted December 27, 2018 Author Share Posted December 27, 2018 Let me throw this out there too... Some of you may have noticed my jacked up install for my alternator (if you didn't, I'm working through deciding to modify an alternator bracket or buy something else). Does anyone have a recommendation for an aftermarket alternator bracket for a 351W, Passenger side alternator? I was just using the stock bracket even though I'm not running my thermactor pump but it really seems to crowd my bypass hose. I annotated in the pic below right where the bracket was pushing on the hose: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Does anyone have a recommendation for an aftermarket alternator bracket for a 351W, Passenger side alternator? I just noticed that you stated "aftermarket", so this is likely off the table, but I just wondered? I do not know if this would fit better or not. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1969-FORD-289-302-351W-ALTERNATOR-BRACKET-OEM-FoMoCo-with-Free-Shipping-USA/183576165171?hash=item2abdfdfb33:g:HeAAAOSwcnZcDRvO:rk:9:pf:0 A few other possibilities: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SB-Ford-Stock-Style-Chrome-Alternator-Bracket-Set-1965-1969-289-302-351W-V-8/401646555398?hash=item5d84001106:g:LuYAAMXQiM5Q~x6f:sc:USPSPriority!40475!US!-1:rk:10:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-69-72-Ford-351W-Alternator-Bracket-D10E-10A336-AA-Mustang-Cougar/323623299010?epid=1030281766&hash=item4b5973a7c2:g:uhQAAOSwqiJb9um6:rk:12:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-302-351W-ALTERNATOR-BRACKET-SET-1970-71-72-73-MUSTANG-MACH-1-COUGAR-TRUCK/192756750971?epid=1377575644&hash=item2ce1329a7b:g:IMcAAOSw24pbSCXf:rk:14:pf:0Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 27, 2018 Share Posted December 27, 2018 Hope everyone had a very Merry Christmas!! Progress update: Only way to get some use out of the Bronco right now... Made some good progress today though. Got everything prepped yesterday afternoon. The set went smooth for the motor. The transmission was another story. I bolted and unbolted it 4 times. I couldn't figure out why once it was all bolted together why I couldn't get the motor to turn. In desperation I lowered it for the third time and checked the Torque Converter (TC from here on out). Sure enough, there was a tiny little bit of travel left to go to FULLY seat it and after I wiggled it around for a good 4-5 minutes it finally slid back a little further. 4th and final time I raised it up and bolted it together we are good to go. I do have a question though: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 edit: could that be the hole for the TC drain plug? Yes! That's what it is. That is the hole for the drain plug. It seems you have the TC incorrectly indexed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve83 Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 Note that there is a larger hole beside each of the small TC stud holes in the flexplate - you got your TC into the wrong ones. You need to back the trans away from the block enough to rotate one of them into the correct alignment.Sure enough, there was a tiny little bit of travel left to go to FULLY seat it...For every model of slushbox, there's a spec on how deep the face of the TC must be in the bellhousing for it to be fully-seated in the pump. This shows the E4OD spec, which is probably the same as the C6: https://supermotors.net/getfile/288132/thumbnail/transtcinstalle4od.jpg If you tighten the trans to the block when it's NOT aligned (and you did that 3x), you CAN damage the pump.Is it ok to now pull the TC forward with the bolts as they tighten against the face of the flywheel?Yes, it has to be. There has to be some extra room in there, which means the TC will always start off slightly deeper than the flexplate.You should snug them down in a pattern where #2 is across from #1, and go around that way so you don't cock the thing and cause the knob on the front to bind in the pilot hole.I always tighten them sequentially. The studs/bolts are always shorter than the pilot, which means the pilot MUST be in the crank socket before the fasteners can start. So there's no chance of cocking it. I've done it that way for decades on Fords, Land Rovers, Saabs, Nissans, Mitsubishis, GMs, Toyotas, Jeeps, Dodges... Never a problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 edit: could that be the hole for the TC drain plug? Yes! That's what it is. That is the hole for the drain plug. It seems you have the TC incorrectly indexed. Good eye! As for the alternator brackets, I searched a lot online for aftermarket A/C brackets. The easiest thing I think is to find them at a Pick n Pull or JY. I found one local in our small town. I did like the looks of these. https://www.cvfracing.com/ford/ford-289-302-351w-small-block/v-belt-brackets/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 Good eye gentlemen! on probably my 2nd attempt, I tried to get the studs to come through the smaller holes and could not get them through. I thought they were about the thread space too small. (There is also a shoulder around the studs that I was thinking may pull through the hole and fill the larger diameter hole in the Flywheel.) But after looking at this closer tonight and after carefully snugging the bolts up tonight I pulled one through the larger hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 Good eye! As for the alternator brackets, I searched a lot online for aftermarket A/C brackets. The easiest thing I think is to find them at a Pick n Pull or JY. I found one local in our small town. I did like the looks of these. https://www.cvfracing.com/ford/ford-289-302-351w-small-block/v-belt-brackets/ -Alternator Bracket- Thanks for the link Grumpin! I am looking at the one I bought. (Nice kit! Only paid $35 for it new but its for the wrong side.) Looking at modifying it, but if I lose heart I'll look these guys up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferdinand Posted December 28, 2018 Author Share Posted December 28, 2018 Does anyone have a recommendation for an aftermarket alternator bracket for a 351W, Passenger side alternator? I just noticed that you stated "aftermarket", so this is likely off the table, but I just wondered? I do not know if this would fit better or not. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1969-FORD-289-302-351W-ALTERNATOR-BRACKET-OEM-FoMoCo-with-Free-Shipping-USA/183576165171?hash=item2abdfdfb33:g:HeAAAOSwcnZcDRvO:rk:9:pf:0 A few other possibilities: https://www.ebay.com/itm/SB-Ford-Stock-Style-Chrome-Alternator-Bracket-Set-1965-1969-289-302-351W-V-8/401646555398?hash=item5d84001106:g:LuYAAMXQiM5Q~x6f:sc:USPSPriority!40475!US!-1:rk:10:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-69-72-Ford-351W-Alternator-Bracket-D10E-10A336-AA-Mustang-Cougar/323623299010?epid=1030281766&hash=item4b5973a7c2:g:uhQAAOSwqiJb9um6:rk:12:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-302-351W-ALTERNATOR-BRACKET-SET-1970-71-72-73-MUSTANG-MACH-1-COUGAR-TRUCK/192756750971?epid=1377575644&hash=item2ce1329a7b:g:IMcAAOSw24pbSCXf:rk:14:pf:0 Thanks for the legwork and the links 1986F150Six! Man it is amazing how readily available and cheap most Chevy parts are... FORD, not so much. 😬 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 28, 2018 Share Posted December 28, 2018 Thanks for the legwork and the links 1986F150Six! Man it is amazing how readily available and cheap most Chevy parts are... FORD, not so much. 😬 You think Ford is bad then don't try ANYTHING for an AMC V8! Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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