C6 to E4OD swap, analog range sensor wiring 1986 F-350 6.9l Diesel

[kcinga]

Never had a Ford 6.9L Diesel, owned 3 GM 5.7L Diesels, spent 3 years at a Dodge and Mercedes-Benz dealership so am quite familiar with glow plug systems (turn on the key, pull the start-stop knob out and then to the first detent, watch the glow indicator on the dash until it is bright orange, depending on temperature, wait up to 3 or 4 mins, maybe longer then pull the knob all the way to engage the starter). Starting procedure on older MB Diesels and BMC high speed Diesels. At the time I was there Dodge had a Nissan 6 cyl Diesel.

If your ignition switch has 2 positions before start, it could be the problem, I believe the 6.9L Ford used the same style glow plug controls GM used. It does look like it, 5 pins, what looks like an extra starter relay for the glow plugs and an indicator light.

Have you looked at the 1986 EVTM on here? It looks like Ford only used one ignition switch on these trucks, I know on the gas engine models the front harness was made "universal" so that every system from the DS-II through the EFI and feedback carburetors was basically plug and play. The loss of your glow plug indicator could be a coincidence, like a burned out bulb. Are you getting glow plugs, as dash lights dim a bit then brighten when the relay cycles.

It's running and driving! Mostly. lol I can't get it to crank from the key. However, if I turn the key half-way, glowplug light comes on, I wait for it to go out... then I use a screwdriver at the solenoid. It started. I put it in reverse and drive. It appeared to work correctly. Yes!

If you have any thoughts on the starting issue, let me know. Otherwise, I'm counting this as a success for now. I'll call back into US Shift if the problem remains unresolved for long. I still need to mount the transmission controller.

I thank you so much! Using that red wire from the 16-pin controller side made all of the difference in the world. Now, there's likely one other wire that's wrong (I'm guessing).

[85lebaront2]

It's running and driving! Mostly. lol I can't get it to crank from the key. However, if I turn the key half-way, glowplug light comes on, I wait for it to go out... then I use a screwdriver at the solenoid. It started. I put it in reverse and drive. It appeared to work correctly. Yes!

If you have any thoughts on the starting issue, let me know. Otherwise, I'm counting this as a success for now. I'll call back into US Shift if the problem remains unresolved for long. I still need to mount the transmission controller.

I thank you so much! Using that red wire from the 16-pin controller side made all of the difference in the world. Now, there's likely one other wire that's wrong (I'm guessing).

On the 16 pin plug, there is one pin that shows two different color possibilities, pin #12 can be either a R/LB or W/PK. I believe that pin #12 should be the start feed from the ignition switch, but it could be pin #4.

Disconnect the injection pump power as a precaution so the engine can't start, separate the 16 pin connector and take something and jump pin #4 to pin #12 on the body harness side of the plug. With this done, see if the key will work the starter, if so, the problem is in the transmission harness or neutral safety switch. If it will not see if the wire from the switch is properly connected and if you have a test light or voltmeter, see if either wire is getting power in start.

If you narrow it down to possibly being the neutral safety switch, plug things back together, but leave the injector pump disconnected, with the key in "start" try moving the shifter a bit,push toward park put it in neutral, try reverse. If it cranks doing this, then the neutral safety switch needs adjusting or is bad.

[kcinga]

On the 16 pin plug, there is one pin that shows two different color possibilities, pin #12 can be either a R/LB or W/PK. I believe that pin #12 should be the start feed from the ignition switch, but it could be pin #4.

Disconnect the injection pump power as a precaution so the engine can't start, separate the 16 pin connector and take something and jump pin #4 to pin #12 on the body harness side of the plug. With this done, see if the key will work the starter, if so, the problem is in the transmission harness or neutral safety switch. If it will not see if the wire from the switch is properly connected and if you have a test light or voltmeter, see if either wire is getting power in start.

If you narrow it down to possibly being the neutral safety switch, plug things back together, but leave the injector pump disconnected, with the key in "start" try moving the shifter a bit,push toward park put it in neutral, try reverse. If it cranks doing this, then the neutral safety switch needs adjusting or is bad.

Thanks! I will check that out and report back.

I noticed when I attempted to start from the solenoid yesterday, that I get a single-click sound and it does nothing. Not sure what I did. So, now it won't even crank from the solenoid. I was just wanting to move the truck somewhere else, since it cranked and moved the day before.

[85lebaront2]

Thanks! I will check that out and report back.

I noticed when I attempted to start from the solenoid yesterday, that I get a single-click sound and it does nothing. Not sure what I did. So, now it won't even crank from the solenoid. I was just wanting to move the truck somewhere else, since it cranked and moved the day before.

Do you have a volt meter? Check your voltage on the battery side of the starter relay. If it drops to near 0 when you try jumping it, then you have some bad connections.

[kcinga]

Do you have a volt meter? Check your voltage on the battery side of the starter relay. If it drops to near 0 when you try jumping it, then you have some bad connections.

I do have a voltmeter, but don't use it much. I appreciate the advice. It'll have to wait for now. I won't have access to my truck for a few days. Too much going on.

[kcinga]

I do have a voltmeter, but don't use it much. I appreciate the advice. It'll have to wait for now. I won't have access to my truck for a few days. Too much going on.

Alright, sorry for the delay. I just looked at my 16-pin connector and your diagram. Completely different from diagram you listed for diesel! I'll list the numbers and coloring schemes to see if it helps in any way.

1 - LG/Y (Light Green/Yellow); 2 - T/W (Tan/White); 3 - T/R (Tan/Red); 4 - G (Green)

5 - BR/O (Brown/Orange); 6 - P/Y (Purple/Yellow); 7 - P/O (Purple/Orange); 8 - W/R (White/Red)

9 - not used, O/BK to cab; 10 - O/BK (Orange/Black); 11 - Y/Y (Yellow/Yellow); 12 - BR/W (Brown/White)

13 - BK; 14 - O/Y (Orange/Yellow); 15 - R (Red); 16 - O (Orange)

So, pin 15 is the only one being used at the moment. I will comment that it appears that pin 4 and pin 16 come together for a connector.

Not sure if any of this helps or if I'm just confusing the matter even more, but our 16-pin connectors are way different.

[85lebaront2]

Alright, sorry for the delay. I just looked at my 16-pin connector and your diagram. Completely different from diagram you listed for diesel! I'll list the numbers and coloring schemes to see if it helps in any way.

1 - LG/Y (Light Green/Yellow); 2 - T/W (Tan/White); 3 - T/R (Tan/Red); 4 - G (Green)

5 - BR/O (Brown/Orange); 6 - P/Y (Purple/Yellow); 7 - P/O (Purple/Orange); 8 - W/R (White/Red)

9 - not used, O/BK to cab; 10 - O/BK (Orange/Black); 11 - Y/Y (Yellow/Yellow); 12 - BR/W (Brown/White)

13 - BK; 14 - O/Y (Orange/Yellow); 15 - R (Red); 16 - O (Orange)

So, pin 15 is the only one being used at the moment. I will comment that it appears that pin 4 and pin 16 come together for a connector.

Not sure if any of this helps or if I'm just confusing the matter even more, but our 16-pin connectors are way different.

Ok, let me try to explain what I would do (your mileage may vary).

I would unplug the harness from the transmission, both sides, manual lever and valve body and from the underhood connections so you can use your multimeter to identify what wire goes to what pin on which transmission plugs.

The reason I say this is no one has a clue as to what the original transmission swapper did. You have 9 wires that go to the solenoids and valve body, those are the ones your Quick 4 needs to interface with. The manual lever switch (position sensor) has two wires for the starter safety circuits 32 and 33, pins 5 and 8 (needed so it won't start in gear) two wires for the backup lights circuits 140 and 298, pins 6 and 7 (may be needed for inspection) and two that tell Ford's computer where the shift lever is circuits circuits 199 and 359, pins 2 and 3, these may also be needed for the Quick 4 to tell it what range the transmission is in.

The 1986 trucks had no E4OD, small V8s and maybe a 6 cyl could have an AOD transmission. The neutral safety switch on it or the C6 was run down the frame and over to the transmission. There was no 16 pin square plug until 1992 at the earliest. 1987 was all by itself on wiring. 1988-1991 had a group of 8 pin round plugs on the left side inner fender that connected to the engine, transmission and rear harness.

[kcinga]

Ok, let me try to explain what I would do (your mileage may vary).

I would unplug the harness from the transmission, both sides, manual lever and valve body and from the underhood connections so you can use your multimeter to identify what wire goes to what pin on which transmission plugs.

The reason I say this is no one has a clue as to what the original transmission swapper did. You have 9 wires that go to the solenoids and valve body, those are the ones your Quick 4 needs to interface with. The manual lever switch (position sensor) has two wires for the starter safety circuits 32 and 33, pins 5 and 8 (needed so it won't start in gear) two wires for the backup lights circuits 140 and 298, pins 6 and 7 (may be needed for inspection) and two that tell Ford's computer where the shift lever is circuits circuits 199 and 359, pins 2 and 3, these may also be needed for the Quick 4 to tell it what range the transmission is in.

The 1986 trucks had no E4OD, small V8s and maybe a 6 cyl could have an AOD transmission. The neutral safety switch on it or the C6 was run down the frame and over to the transmission. There was no 16 pin square plug until 1992 at the earliest. 1987 was all by itself on wiring. 1988-1991 had a group of 8 pin round plugs on the left side inner fender that connected to the engine, transmission and rear harness.

Took a bit of a detour over the last week or so. First, noticed that batteries on truck wouldn't keep much of a charge, so I replaced both of them. Then, with the dull click happening, I focused on the starter. At first, my thought was to tap on it a bit. I've heard stories from my Dad how he sometimes would have to tap on a starter a bit to get it going. Anyway, when I did that, corroded metal brush pieces would fall out of the starter. Okay, I know that's not good. lol So, I now replaced the starter. Hooked everything back up and tried again. Still won't crank (from key or solenoid), but a different reason: I'm getting a "Shift Solenoid B (SSB) circuit open" message on the Quick 4 controller. I have a call into support team (closed today). I hope to talk to them tomorrow. I think I'm closer.

I'll go over my wiring to see what similarities we may have. Here's a pic of my transmission controller:

Not much to mess up, honestly. Solenoids, PRDL, TSS can only be hooked up one way. Of the 16 wires on the vehicle pin, I think 5 at least are correct:

Pin 15 BLK - ground, negative battery post

Pin 9 R - ignition switch power wire, spliced to R wire on 16 pin connector to truck

TPS - Throttle Postion Sensor:

Pin 16 TPS ground

Pin 11 O - TPS +5v

Pin 3 Green - TPS Signal

I know TPS is working, b/c it's able to pass the TPS configuration check on the controller.

That leaves the 4 white wires to decipher and how they hook up. This is what I have currently:

IGN START - Red/Lt Blue

START RELAY - White/Pink

12V IN RUN - Purple/Orange

BKUP LAMP - Black/Pink

So, how do I decipher using a voltmeter with these 4 wires? I think if I get them right, I should be good. (Let's hope!)

[85lebaront2]

Took a bit of a detour over the last week or so. First, noticed that batteries on truck wouldn't keep much of a charge, so I replaced both of them. Then, with the dull click happening, I focused on the starter. At first, my thought was to tap on it a bit. I've heard stories from my Dad how he sometimes would have to tap on a starter a bit to get it going. Anyway, when I did that, corroded metal brush pieces would fall out of the starter. Okay, I know that's not good. lol So, I now replaced the starter. Hooked everything back up and tried again. Still won't crank (from key or solenoid), but a different reason: I'm getting a "Shift Solenoid B (SSB) circuit open" message on the Quick 4 controller. I have a call into support team (closed today). I hope to talk to them tomorrow. I think I'm closer.

I'll go over my wiring to see what similarities we may have. Here's a pic of my transmission controller:

Not much to mess up, honestly. Solenoids, PRDL, TSS can only be hooked up one way. Of the 16 wires on the vehicle pin, I think 5 at least are correct:

Pin 15 BLK - ground, negative battery post

Pin 9 R - ignition switch power wire, spliced to R wire on 16 pin connector to truck

TPS - Throttle Postion Sensor:

Pin 16 TPS ground

Pin 11 O - TPS +5v

Pin 3 Green - TPS Signal

I know TPS is working, b/c it's able to pass the TPS configuration check on the controller.

That leaves the 4 white wires to decipher and how they hook up. This is what I have currently:

IGN START - Red/Lt Blue

START RELAY - White/Pink

12V IN RUN - Purple/Orange

BKUP LAMP - Black/Pink

So, how do I decipher using a voltmeter with these 4 wires? I think if I get them right, I should be good. (Let's hope!)

Let me list what I have on the 16 pin Ford connector;

Pin #

1 - circuit 298 - backup lights power, small P/O (from ACC feed)

2 - circuit 140 - backup lights feed, BK/PK

3 - circuit 481 - unknown, GY/Y *

4 - circuit 32 - to starter relay, R/LB

5 - circuit 210 - 4WD, LB/Y (probably not needed) *

6 - circuit 784 - 4WD LR, LB/BK (probably not needed) *

7 - circuit 463 - 4WD signal, R/W (probably not needed) *

8 - circuit 923 - transmission fluid temp, O/BK

9 - circuit 480 - torque converter clutch solenoid, P/Y

10 - circuit 315 - shift solenoid #2, larger P/O

11 - circuit 237 - shift solenoid #1, O/Y

12 - circuit 32 or 33 - start from ignition switch, R/LB or W/PK

13 - circuit 57 - ground, BK (only to ground circuit 463 for 4WD actuator) *

14 - circuit 924 - coast clutch solenoid, BR/O

15 - circuit 199 - range sensor signal, LB/Y

16 - circuit 925 - EPC solenoid, W/Y

Without the 4WD and mystery wire (GY/Y), you are down to 11 giving you room for circuit 361, ignition power (actually fed by the PCM power relay) that is needed to power the solenoids.

 

[kcinga]

Let me list what I have on the 16 pin Ford connector;

Pin #

1 - circuit 298 - backup lights power, small P/O (from ACC feed)

2 - circuit 140 - backup lights feed, BK/PK

3 - circuit 481 - unknown, GY/Y *

4 - circuit 32 - to starter relay, R/LB

5 - circuit 210 - 4WD, LB/Y (probably not needed) *

6 - circuit 784 - 4WD LR, LB/BK (probably not needed) *

7 - circuit 463 - 4WD signal, R/W (probably not needed) *

8 - circuit 923 - transmission fluid temp, O/BK

9 - circuit 480 - torque converter clutch solenoid, P/Y

10 - circuit 315 - shift solenoid #2, larger P/O

11 - circuit 237 - shift solenoid #1, O/Y

12 - circuit 32 or 33 - start from ignition switch, R/LB or W/PK

13 - circuit 57 - ground, BK (only to ground circuit 463 for 4WD actuator) *

14 - circuit 924 - coast clutch solenoid, BR/O

15 - circuit 199 - range sensor signal, LB/Y

16 - circuit 925 - EPC solenoid, W/Y

Without the 4WD and mystery wire (GY/Y), you are down to 11 giving you room for circuit 361, ignition power (actually fed by the PCM power relay) that is needed to power the solenoids.

What do your circuit numbers map to? Like your first one, circuit #298... how do I tell what circuit my #1 goes to?

I'm close to raising the white flag on this one and having it towed to a shop. I found a diesel shop that has a former Ford Master Mechanic on staff. One of the few shops around here willing to work on a classic.

For my latest struggles, it seems that my brief success of starting the truck from the solenoid with a screwdriver and then driving the truck to another spot on my property, has only presented struggles from that moment forward. After that, I was no longer able to crank truck from solenoid, but I still had power to dome lights and the quick 4 transmission controller. Fast forward to today, after replacing batteries and the starter, neither one has power any longer. Oh, if I hook the quick 4 transmission controller directly to the battery, it powers up just fine.

My assumption was that a fuse must be blown, but I've checked them all and they're fine.