C6 to E4OD swap, analog range sensor wiring 1986 F-350 6.9l Diesel

[kcinga]

Short story is that I bought a 1986 F-350 6.9l Non-turbo Diesel a few months ago. Truck started and ran great, but wouldn't hardly drive. Previous owner swapped out the C6 transmission for an E4OD, but didn't install a stand-alone transmission controller. The guy at US Shift that I talked to, convinced me that it's basically trying to drive in 4th gear (in drive). I was able to drive it around a bit in 2nd gear (just up and down the street in my subdivision). I left it parked after that and purchased a stand-alone transmission controller from US Shift (Quick 4) and installed it.

The problem I have now is that it won't crank and the glowplug light won't come on (after I turn key). I am convinced that this is a range sensor issue. Previously, when I was researching what my current range sensor was on the transmission, I tugged on the wiring to the range sensor and all of the (6) wires came out loose from the plug. And, I wasn't sure what color wire went where. I attempted a few times to reconnect, sometimes it wouldn't crank and the glow plug light would come on... other times it would crank and the glow plug light wouldn't come on. Nevertheless, I figured the issue would be resolved when I ordered the new wiring from US Shift.

The analog range sensor comes with 8 possible wiring pins, but 2 aren't used for my truck. Basically, positions 1 and 4 aren't used. Position 2 is a Gray wire. Position 3 is a Light Blue wire. The remaining wires are white: IGN START, START RELAY, 12V IN RUN, BKUP LAMP. So, I think the wire positions for 5, 6, 7, 8 will determine whether I can get glow plug and cranking operation to work correctly.

US Shift documentation suggests: BKUP LAMP=BK/P (Black with Pink stripe); 12V IN RUN=P/O (Purple with Orange stripe); IGN START=either R/LB (Red with Light Blue stripe) or W/PK (White with Pink stripe); START RELAY=either R/LB (Red with Light Blue stripe) or W/PK (White with Pink stripe). Initially, I noticed an existing wire connection with 4 wires that were BK/P, P/O, R/LB, W/PK. Figured that it had to be using this collection of wires. I've spliced the white wires with a variety of wiring pins (since the suggested ones weren't working).

Anyway, I'm just trying to get my truck to start and run again with the key. The stand-alone controller appears to be starting up correctly. The TPS is configured and it appears ready to go. I can get the motor to crank via the solenoid on the fender wall with a screwdriver.

I'm hoping that someone knows what my wiring should be on the analog range sensor for wiring pins 5 through 8. I've included pics of the existing wires when they first came out of the analog range sensor; the wiring diagram I found on what wiring pins should be; the existing connectors (4-pin and 16-pin) that were hooked up to my transmission when it cranked correctly with the glowplug light on; last picture is of the mess of wires from the 16-pin connector that aren't currently being used at all.

 

[85lebaront2]

Ok, the 16 pin harness is from a 1992-97 truck, it plugged into the left side of the front harness just behind and inboard of the PDC used on those years. Here is the pair on my front harness before I installed it on my 1986 F350 460 W/E4OD:

Black plug is the 16 pin square one, the green one is an 8 pin, of which I believe I only used 4.

The wires on the 16 pin include the start circuit. backup lamps and most of the transmission control circuits. On the gas engines, 4 of the wires in the 8 pin are for the O2 sensor, either the only one on pre-OBDII trucks and the catalyst monitor on OBDII trucks. I can give you the wire colors and functions so you can get it working properly.

The E4OD manual lever position sensor contains a batch of resistors to tell the EEC what gear is selected, and I am pretty sure your controller needs that same information. Line pressure is also EEC controlled.

[kcinga]

Ok, the 16 pin harness is from a 1992-97 truck, it plugged into the left side of the front harness just behind and inboard of the PDC used on those years. Here is the pair on my front harness before I installed it on my 1986 F350 460 W/E4OD:

Black plug is the 16 pin square one, the green one is an 8 pin, of which I believe I only used 4.

The wires on the 16 pin include the start circuit. backup lamps and most of the transmission control circuits. On the gas engines, 4 of the wires in the 8 pin are for the O2 sensor, either the only one on pre-OBDII trucks and the catalyst monitor on OBDII trucks. I can give you the wire colors and functions so you can get it working properly.

The E4OD manual lever position sensor contains a batch of resistors to tell the EEC what gear is selected, and I am pretty sure your controller needs that same information. Line pressure is also EEC controlled.

Thanks! First off, though, my E4OD is a 1989 transmission. Not sure if that might have a different wiring scheme? If the wires from the 16-pin connector are used for starting the vehicle, then I'm definitely doing something wrong, b/c I'm not using any of those wires currently! I went by the documentation from US Shift company and the wiring colors that hooked up to my analog range sensor matched the 4 colors on the 4-pin connector (perfect! I thought - lol)

If you can locate which wire colors go into your analog range sensor (pins 5 thru 8), that would be a starting point. But, I'm not sure if your year range will compare to mine or even that gas will be the same as diesel (I'm thinking not - I honestly don't know, tho).

[85lebaront2]

Thanks! First off, though, my E4OD is a 1989 transmission. Not sure if that might have a different wiring scheme? If the wires from the 16-pin connector are used for starting the vehicle, then I'm definitely doing something wrong, b/c I'm not using any of those wires currently! I went by the documentation from US Shift company and the wiring colors that hooked up to my analog range sensor matched the 4 colors on the 4-pin connector (perfect! I thought - lol)

If you can locate which wire colors go into your analog range sensor (pins 5 thru 8), that would be a starting point. But, I'm not sure if your year range will compare to mine or even that gas will be the same as diesel (I'm thinking not - I honestly don't know, tho).

Mine is a 1990. First question, do you have the updated switch? Ford changed the switch design due to water intrusion.

Other than anything the controller needs there should be a red with light blue wire (2 of them) in the plug on the neutral safety switch. Those two are the start circuit. Only other ones you may want/need would be the back up lights. Both of these are actual switches, the other is a group of resistors to tell the Ford computer what position the shift lever is in.

[kcinga]

Mine is a 1990. First question, do you have the updated switch? Ford changed the switch design due to water intrusion.

Other than anything the controller needs there should be a red with light blue wire (2 of them) in the plug on the neutral safety switch. Those two are the start circuit. Only other ones you may want/need would be the back up lights. Both of these are actual switches, the other is a group of resistors to tell the Ford computer what position the shift lever is in.

I believe I do. Pic here of updated switch.

Progress! So, I focused on the IGN START and START RELAY wires, since according to my documentation from US Shift both of these wires can be either R/LB or W/P. I had R/LB on one and W/P on the other (and switched positions when it didn't work). So, I looked for another R/LB wire from the 16-pin connector. I don't have one. I went with the R wire and just switched that with the W/P wire, leaving it unconnected. Immediately, I turned my ignition key and the Glowplug light came on! Yes!! But, it went out and I attempted to crank, nothing happened. I switched the R/LB wire with the R wire. Same result. Glowplug light came on and when it went out I attempted to crank, nothing happened. I then tried a few more times turning the key on, Glowplug light on/off, and then using a screwdriver from solenoid to crank. But, still didn't start. I'm closer. But, our 16-pin harnesses are different colored wires, since I don't have any R/LB wires on that connector.

I'll show you what I have and see how that compares to yours. Also, my 4-pin connector. Both of these were connected to my E40D when I bought the truck.

 

[85lebaront2]

Thanks! First off, though, my E4OD is a 1989 transmission. Not sure if that might have a different wiring scheme? If the wires from the 16-pin connector are used for starting the vehicle, then I'm definitely doing something wrong, b/c I'm not using any of those wires currently! I went by the documentation from US Shift company and the wiring colors that hooked up to my analog range sensor matched the 4 colors on the 4-pin connector (perfect! I thought - lol)

If you can locate which wire colors go into your analog range sensor (pins 5 thru 8), that would be a starting point. But, I'm not sure if your year range will compare to mine or even that gas will be the same as diesel (I'm thinking not - I honestly don't know, tho).

Ok, here is a diagram of the transmission switch connector. The 4 wires I would say you need (unless your controller needs input regarding where the shift lever is) are on pins 5 - 8, 5 & 8 are the neutral safety switch, 6 & 7 are backup lights.

The other wires that go to the solenoids are the other wires in the 16 pin and 4 or 8 pin plugs. Red is ignition power and goes to two places on the solenoid plug. Hopefully your controller instructions included the remainder of the hookups as there are 2 shift solenoids, a coast clutch, torque converter clutch and electronic pressure control. The EPC is fed by a red wire and the solenoids by another red wire. If you do not have power or control to the EPC, it defaults to maximum line pressure to avoid burning up the transmission.

[kcinga]

Ok, here is a diagram of the transmission switch connector. The 4 wires I would say you need (unless your controller needs input regarding where the shift lever is) are on pins 5 - 8, 5 & 8 are the neutral safety switch, 6 & 7 are backup lights.

The other wires that go to the solenoids are the other wires in the 16 pin and 4 or 8 pin plugs. Red is ignition power and goes to two places on the solenoid plug. Hopefully your controller instructions included the remainder of the hookups as there are 2 shift solenoids, a coast clutch, torque converter clutch and electronic pressure control. The EPC is fed by a red wire and the solenoids by another red wire. If you do not have power or control to the EPC, it defaults to maximum line pressure to avoid burning up the transmission.

Yeah, that's the same diagram I was going by. It's wrong. You already helped me by suggesting to use two R/LB wires. And, even though I don't have that in my wiring, I did replace the W/PK wire with a red wire from the 16-pin connector. That appeared to be a move in the right direction, b/c for the first time my glowplug light came on! I did notice that I have a P/O wire in both 4-pin and 16-pin connectors. One has a thin orange stripe, the other has a thicker orange stripe. I might try to switch that out next and see what happens.

[85lebaront2]

Yeah, that's the same diagram I was going by. It's wrong. You already helped me by suggesting to use two R/LB wires. And, even though I don't have that in my wiring, I did replace the W/PK wire with a red wire from the 16-pin connector. That appeared to be a move in the right direction, b/c for the first time my glowplug light came on! I did notice that I have a P/O wire in both 4-pin and 16-pin connectors. One has a thin orange stripe, the other has a thicker orange stripe. I might try to switch that out next and see what happens.

It's not wrong on mine, it is exactly how mine connects at the switch. Part of the issue may be how the E4OD was originally added. Purple with Orange, function is completely different, one feeds the backup lamp circuit, the other feeds shift solenoid #2. Big issue is it looks like the previous owner jury rigged things. If it was mine, I would start by going underneath and unplugging the transmission wiring at the solenoid body plug (right side of transmission near the back) and the manual lever connector. I would verify the the manual lever switch is set correctly as it is adjustable.

With the transmission harness laid out, I would check that the wiring does at least match the diagrams, if in doubt, at least note what wire up top goes to what pin on the bottom. Ford moved things around up top depending on year (1992-1997) and what engine was installed. On the 8 pin, if you look, 4 of those are O2 sensor wires which you obviously do not have.

First is C103 which is the 16 pin square plug normally located on the left side inner fender.

If you look, there are a couple of different colors, main one is the start control 32 R/LB and 33 W/PK at pin #12, function was the same, start circuit. Next are the two P/O, one is a small one at pin #1 the other a larger one at pin #10. Small one is back up lights power, large one is SS#2.

Next is C110 which on your truck is only 4 pins (actually a different C number) on the diagram, pins 1,2,5, 6,7 & 8 are for O2 sensors, 3 is 12V power (circuit 361, red wire) 4 is sensor signal return to EEC, so only one wire is really needed and could be moved to an not needed location on C103.

C1048 is the transmission solenoid plug, and there is an error in it's legend, the last two descriptions are reversed. Circuit 316 R is power and circuit 925 W/Y is EPC control. Those wires, other than power and possibly circuits 359 GY/R and 923 O/BK are the ones to your Quick 4 controller.

Last is the manual lever switch plug, C1012, my diagram and your diagram have two pins reversed, 1 & 4, on mine 1 is circuit #57, B which is ground and 4 is circuit #463 which would go to a shift on the fly module. yours shows the same function, so it may not make a difference, but, the MLP sensor has a batch of resistors that the EEC uses to know what gear the shifter is in. If your Quick 4 uses this information, then it could be important. The sense circuits will be 199 and 359.

I had to go through this with Darth when I went from a carbureted 460 and C6 to an MAF/SEFI 460 and E4OD.

 

[kcinga]

It's not wrong on mine, it is exactly how mine connects at the switch. Part of the issue may be how the E4OD was originally added. Purple with Orange, function is completely different, one feeds the backup lamp circuit, the other feeds shift solenoid #2. Big issue is it looks like the previous owner jury rigged things. If it was mine, I would start by going underneath and unplugging the transmission wiring at the solenoid body plug (right side of transmission near the back) and the manual lever connector. I would verify the the manual lever switch is set correctly as it is adjustable.

With the transmission harness laid out, I would check that the wiring does at least match the diagrams, if in doubt, at least note what wire up top goes to what pin on the bottom. Ford moved things around up top depending on year (1992-1997) and what engine was installed. On the 8 pin, if you look, 4 of those are O2 sensor wires which you obviously do not have.

First is C103 which is the 16 pin square plug normally located on the left side inner fender.

If you look, there are a couple of different colors, main one is the start control 32 R/LB and 33 W/PK at pin #12, function was the same, start circuit. Next are the two P/O, one is a small one at pin #1 the other a larger one at pin #10. Small one is back up lights power, large one is SS#2.

Next is C110 which on your truck is only 4 pins (actually a different C number) on the diagram, pins 1,2,5, 6,7 & 8 are for O2 sensors, 3 is 12V power (circuit 361, red wire) 4 is sensor signal return to EEC, so only one wire is really needed and could be moved to an not needed location on C103.

C1048 is the transmission solenoid plug, and there is an error in it's legend, the last two descriptions are reversed. Circuit 316 R is power and circuit 925 W/Y is EPC control. Those wires, other than power and possibly circuits 359 GY/R and 923 O/BK are the ones to your Quick 4 controller.

Last is the manual lever switch plug, C1012, my diagram and your diagram have two pins reversed, 1 & 4, on mine 1 is circuit #57, B which is ground and 4 is circuit #463 which would go to a shift on the fly module. yours shows the same function, so it may not make a difference, but, the MLP sensor has a batch of resistors that the EEC uses to know what gear the shifter is in. If your Quick 4 uses this information, then it could be important. The sense circuits will be 199 and 359.

I had to go through this with Darth when I went from a carbureted 460 and C6 to an MAF/SEFI 460 and E4OD.

Thanks for the documentation! I'll start double-checking that tomorrow. But, just to be clear on the year that I am dealing with here: the 6.9l diesel engine is 1986 and the E4OD transmission is 1989. The wiring has been completely replaced at the transmission. US Shift sends a Quick 4 transmission controller along with a wiring harness for the E4OD transmission. I am just trying to splice it into the existing wiring harness. Before I talked to you, I was only using the 4-pin controller wires for the analog range sensor, nothing from the 16-pin connector was needed. As you've stated, the wiring colors matched up perfectly with analog range sensor diagram (from the 4-pin controller) and I thought it would be exactly what I needed. When I did that, I haven't been able to get my glowplug light to come on. If you don't know, the starting procedure for a 6.9l diesel, is to turn the ignition key half way and a glowplug light will come on. You then wait for it to go out before actually trying to crank the engine.

Anyway, thanks so much for the additional information. I'll start taking a closer look tomorrow.

[85lebaront2]

Thanks for the documentation! I'll start double-checking that tomorrow. But, just to be clear on the year that I am dealing with here: the 6.9l diesel engine is 1986 and the E4OD transmission is 1989. The wiring has been completely replaced at the transmission. US Shift sends a Quick 4 transmission controller along with a wiring harness for the E4OD transmission. I am just trying to splice it into the existing wiring harness. Before I talked to you, I was only using the 4-pin controller wires for the analog range sensor, nothing from the 16-pin connector was needed. As you've stated, the wiring colors matched up perfectly with analog range sensor diagram (from the 4-pin controller) and I thought it would be exactly what I needed. When I did that, I haven't been able to get my glowplug light to come on. If you don't know, the starting procedure for a 6.9l diesel, is to turn the ignition key half way and a glowplug light will come on. You then wait for it to go out before actually trying to crank the engine.

Anyway, thanks so much for the additional information. I'll start taking a closer look tomorrow.

Never had a Ford 6.9L Diesel, owned 3 GM 5.7L Diesels, spent 3 years at a Dodge and Mercedes-Benz dealership so am quite familiar with glow plug systems (turn on the key, pull the start-stop knob out and then to the first detent, watch the glow indicator on the dash until it is bright orange, depending on temperature, wait up to 3 or 4 mins, maybe longer then pull the knob all the way to engage the starter). Starting procedure on older MB Diesels and BMC high speed Diesels. At the time I was there Dodge had a Nissan 6 cyl Diesel.

If your ignition switch has 2 positions before start, it could be the problem, I believe the 6.9L Ford used the same style glow plug controls GM used. It does look like it, 5 pins, what looks like an extra starter relay for the glow plugs and an indicator light.

Have you looked at the 1986 EVTM on here? It looks like Ford only used one ignition switch on these trucks, I know on the gas engine models the front harness was made "universal" so that every system from the DS-II through the EFI and feedback carburetors was basically plug and play. The loss of your glow plug indicator could be a coincidence, like a burned out bulb. Are you getting glow plugs, as dash lights dim a bit then brighten when the relay cycles.