Introducing Myself

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim!

I don't know if it will help.

I'm just trying to be consise and complete.

From the diagrams posted I'm assuming Brian bought some kind of harness from PA Performance.

 

[Schwabber]

I have noted 2 different configurations for how to wire the A yellow wire coming from the regulator. In your schematic, it shows it going straight to the battery side terminal of the solenoid, bypassing the fuse. In the schematic that came with the alternator/harness, it shows that wire going to the B terminal of the alternator and thru the fuse.

In your last note, you said to run a 10 wire splice between the 2 maroon circles on the schematic in order to bypass the shunt, , but that looks like the same thing as the shunt to me?

Maybe I can help?

The 'A' wire is 'alternator' and senses system voltage at the alternator.

It could be at the actual output post, or the alternator side of the 175A fuse.

If for some reason that fuse were to blow, break or corrode the alternator would go 'full field' and meltdown in just a few minutes.

This is why it should be attached before the fuse.

The existing B/O wire between the two circles is deliberately undersized for the 60?A alternator you have.

This forces some current to flow through the a meter, and this is what the meter reads.

The 3G can put out twice as much amperage, and the existing shunt is far too small to handle that.

If you had a high current draw it would try to find the path of least resistance, and as the shunt heated up more current would try and find its way through the meter, probably melting it or (in an extreme case) causing a fire.

So you replace the shunt with a 10Ga. wire that can handle all the cab loads.

Thanks, Jim - that helps a lot.

I still do have some uncertainty around the physical location of those nodes that are circled in maroon on the schematic. I suppose this is my relative inexperience with automotive schematics here, but I think it could also be somewhat related to work done on the vehicle prior to my getting it. Is what is depicted as the first node coming from the B terminal the splice that includes that small yellow(perhaps 16 gauge), the orange/black wire(the shunt?), and the 12 gauge yellow wire?("Node1" photo) And is the other node the splice with the approx 16 gauge red and yellow wire that go to and that goes over to the connector, with the black/orange fuse link that is seen fried in the background of the "Node2" pic.

If that is correct understanding, then I am not sure how to work this into my new set up. I am running a 4 gauge wire off the B terminal of the alt to the mega fuse. I cant see how I would want to splice into this charge wire. So, are these the nodes being referenced, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Also, I had been thinking was that with this new approach I had been contemplating, I would need to bring a 10 or 12 gauge yellow wire from the battery post of the solenoid to a splice point on the existing 10/12 gauge wire seen in the "Node2" pic so that what all that wire is powering under the dash continues getting it's power source.

 

Node 2

Node 1

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim - that helps a lot.

I still do have some uncertainty around the physical location of those nodes that are circled in maroon on the schematic. I suppose this is my relative inexperience with automotive schematics here, but I think it could also be somewhat related to work done on the vehicle prior to my getting it. Is what is depicted as the first node coming from the B terminal the splice that includes that small yellow(perhaps 16 gauge), the orange/black wire(the shunt?), and the 12 gauge yellow wire?("Node1" photo) And is the other node the splice with the approx 16 gauge red and yellow wire that go to and that goes over to the connector, with the black/orange fuse link that is seen fried in the background of the "Node2" pic.

If that is correct understanding, then I am not sure how to work this into my new set up. I am running a 4 gauge wire off the B terminal of the alt to the mega fuse. I cant see how I would want to splice into this charge wire. So, are these the nodes being referenced, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Also, I had been thinking was that with this new approach I had been contemplating, I would need to bring a 10 or 12 gauge yellow wire from the battery post of the solenoid to a splice point on the existing 10/12 gauge wire seen in the "Node2" pic so that what all that wire is powering under the dash continues getting it's power source.

 

Node 2

Node 1

One of the advantages (and downfalls) of the Electrical and Vacuum Testing Manual is that only the circuit in question is shown.

So you may see a © connection, or a (S) splice that appears to have fewer wires than in real life.

In the diagrams they are always numbered. e.g. C257, but you may only see 3 wires represented.

On another page you may see C257 mentioned again with another 4 (but different) wires!

**it's all in the same plug**

This is so one can focus on the circuit at issue, but can seem confusing to the uninitiated.

It does appear that someone used a butt crimp (splice) to replace the fuselink. (which burned up again)

So who really knows what else has been misrepaired. (a new word!)

I see the instruction page you posted..

Are you trying to use some kit, or are you starting from scratch?

Give me a moment to open all these posts in tabs, so I don't have to scroll across posts to see the diagrams.

Working from a mobile device can be challenging.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks, Jim - that helps a lot.

I still do have some uncertainty around the physical location of those nodes that are circled in maroon on the schematic. I suppose this is my relative inexperience with automotive schematics here, but I think it could also be somewhat related to work done on the vehicle prior to my getting it. Is what is depicted as the first node coming from the B terminal the splice that includes that small yellow(perhaps 16 gauge), the orange/black wire(the shunt?), and the 12 gauge yellow wire?("Node1" photo) And is the other node the splice with the approx 16 gauge red and yellow wire that go to and that goes over to the connector, with the black/orange fuse link that is seen fried in the background of the "Node2" pic.

If that is correct understanding, then I am not sure how to work this into my new set up. I am running a 4 gauge wire off the B terminal of the alt to the mega fuse. I cant see how I would want to splice into this charge wire. So, are these the nodes being referenced, or am I barking up the wrong tree?

Also, I had been thinking was that with this new approach I had been contemplating, I would need to bring a 10 or 12 gauge yellow wire from the battery post of the solenoid to a splice point on the existing 10/12 gauge wire seen in the "Node2" pic so that what all that wire is powering under the dash continues getting it's power source.

 

Node 2

Node 1

So, those are the S202 and S203 splices that Gary circled.

The Black/Orange (shunt) wire between them must be replaced with a wire of 10 AWG. (6.0 mm section)

The small Red/Orange and Yellow/Green wires are the ones that connect the ammeter.

The Black/Orange wire coming from your alternator will be replaced by the 4Ga. cable going to the Megafuse.

Now I ask about the kit.

Is this the PA Performance kit with the false 'regulator' box?

Is it their usual 3G conversion kit?

It helps to know what you have to work with, so I can give correct advice.

Just show me what you have and I can tell you how to make it work.

[Schwabber]

So, those are the S202 and S203 splices that Gary circled.

The Black/Orange (shunt) wire between them must be replaced with a wire of 10 AWG. (6.0 mm section)

The small Red/Orange and Yellow/Green wires are the ones that connect the ammeter.

The Black/Orange wire coming from your alternator will be replaced by the 4Ga. cable going to the Megafuse.

Now I ask about the kit.

Is this the PA Performance kit with the false 'regulator' box?

Is it their usual 3G conversion kit?

It helps to know what you have to work with, so I can give correct advice.

Just show me what you have and I can tell you how to make it work.

Jim -

I picked up the harness together with the alternator from a place called Quality Power. The harness was presented as a "2g to 3g" upgrade harness. The regulator is standard as seen below

Thanks much for the assist.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jim -

I picked up the harness together with the alternator from a place called Quality Power. The harness was presented as a "2g to 3g" upgrade harness. The regulator is standard as seen below

Thanks much for the assist.

Gosh Brian, I'm sorry I dropped the ball.

Gary edited out a bunch of banter we had hijacked your thread with and I followed it into Big Blues thread.

Never noticed you replied here.

Ok.

So I see where the instructions show cutting off the plug and it says "if this wire exists, splice it into the yellow (B) wire."

But since you're not using the pair of B/O wires and their fuselink anyway you should try to unwrap this yellow(?) wire back up to the main harness.

Instead of 'splice' you could put a ring terminal and add it to the fuse holder or hot side of the starter relay.

Unfortunately Gary doesn't seem to have an EVTM page showing the 2G in a bullnose with an ammeter.

I'll have to find that diagram, but I think you don't really need it since the regulator plug you have now is looped to the output stud.

Let me double check. Because I don't want to miss something WRT your specific year and model.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gosh Brian, I'm sorry I dropped the ball.

Gary edited out a bunch of banter we had hijacked your thread with and I followed it into Big Blues thread.

Never noticed you replied here.

Ok.

So I see where the instructions show cutting off the plug and it says "if this wire exists, splice it into the yellow (B) wire."

But since you're not using the pair of B/O wires and their fuselink anyway you should try to unwrap this yellow(?) wire back up to the main harness.

Instead of 'splice' you could put a ring terminal and add it to the fuse holder or hot side of the starter relay.

Unfortunately Gary doesn't seem to have an EVTM page showing the 2G in a bullnose with an ammeter.

I'll have to find that diagram, but I think you don't really need it since the regulator plug you have now is looped to the output stud.

Let me double check. Because I don't want to miss something WRT your specific year and model.

An off topic question:

I see you say you're from Northern California, Bay Area.

As an east* coaster I've always thought of San Francisco as central California, and that you had to be above Marin and Sonoma before it was 'northern'?

Maybe a line straight west from Tahoe, in the crook?

I think of Mendocino or Ft. Bragg as northern, and below Santa Barbara as southern, but I guess I'm too literal?

What's the consensus, from a Californian perspective?

[Gary Lewis]

Unfortunately Gary doesn't seem to have an EVTM page showing the 2G in a bullnose with an ammeter.

I'll have to find that diagram, but I think you don't really need it since the regulator plug you have now is looped to the output stud.

Jim - The Electrical/1986 EVTM/Charge & Power Distribution Gasoline Engines has this one:

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Unfortunately Gary doesn't seem to have an EVTM page showing the 2G in a bullnose with an ammeter.

I'll have to find that diagram, but I think you don't really need it since the regulator plug you have now is looped to the output stud.

Jim - The Electrical/1986 EVTM/Charge & Power Distribution Gasoline Engines has this one:

Why didn't you use this in this thread?

He said he was going from 2G.

Ok. You can see at the C231 connection where the stator output goes to the EEC.

THAT is probably needed for proper function -if you have the 300- and you'll need to splice into the B/W wire looped in your new harness.

[Gary Lewis]

Why didn't you use this in this thread?

He said he was going from 2G.

Ok. You can see at the C231 connection where the stator output goes to the EEC.

THAT is probably needed for proper function -if you have the 300- and you'll need to splice into the B/W wire looped in your new harness.

It isn't garbled for me.

As for not using it, my bad. Maybe I missed the 2G? Old age? ???

Anyway, here 'tis again, just in case: