Rembrant

I was planning to strip the shifter and everything out of the column. I actually have the plastic collar from a floor shift manual trans steering column, and it screws in place. I haven't done that part before, so I'm hoping it fits in there OK. On the bottom end of the column (in the engine bay) I'll simply wrap a piece of thin sheet metal over the hole where the shift lever sticks out. Pop rivet it in place on the back side where you can't see them, and spray paint black. I did the same...sort of, with my three-on-the-tree column. It is basically the same as an auto trans column. Anyway, the sheet metal on the bottom end worked perfectly. For the shift collar, I cut the boss off where the shifter handle used to attach, and I filled it with epoxy and smoothed it down. It can still turn, but it doesn't move that I'm aware of.

The stores finally re-opened here today, but I was out of luck in getting a new water pump. I checked and there were none in-stock in the whole city. The pump is specific to 1983-1986, so I guess would be a very low usage item around here these days. Coming from the warehouse in NB and will be here on Wednesday. Bugger. I was wanting to install it today. Shocking price differences...which drives me nuts. The pumps are between $25-$35 CDN on Rock Auto (Maybe $18 bucks USD?). Local auto parts shops, $61 dollars for a new pump (Reman was $59 and change). Anyway, enough whining...lol. I got the 1994 2 core rad installed in the 1980 core support...not sure how close it will come to the fan, but man it sure looks like it will be too close. I'm waiting until I get the new pump and thermostat housing on before I re-install the core support and grill, etc. Still not sure what to do about the fuel line. Any suggestions? I guess I can buy a roll of 5/16" steel tubing and bend and flare it, but the roll is $40 bucks which I didn't want to spend. 5/16" hose would likely be $10, but then I need to find a way to connect it at the pump. Anyway, all else is good. I got the passenger side wiring all re-attached. Will do driver's side tomorrow, and I plan to fill the trans fluid and install a new shifter kit in the 5spd (the seal and bushings at the top where the shifter stub is). Wednesday my new clutch master cylinder and hydraulic line arrive, so I'll be doing some firewall work and swapping in the manual pedal box, and doing some conversion work on the auto steering column. Hoping to try and flash this thing up by the weekend and see if it will even run at all. Fingers crossed.

The two brands I have are ATP and Pioneer. I know they come in longer versions, so you should be good to go with the next size up.

Gary, Ignore the cable info I posted...you can even delete it. The ones I have are for 2wd and are going to be too short for a 4x4 anyway.

Gary, The parts I have are as follows: Aftermarket VSS: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-vehicle-speed-sensor-s8063/3460630-P Plug / Pigtail for the VSS: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-electrical-connector-pt331/20974573-P Cable #1: http://atpautomotive.com/speedometer-cable-y-805 Cable #2: https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/speedometer-cable/pioneer-speedometer-cable-ca-3018/77606_0 The two cables appear to be the same. Far as I know you can buy them anywhere. One of mine came from RockAuto (I think) and the other from LMC.

Gary, I bought one of these cables brand new...actually, I think I have two of them (2 different brands) and I also have a new VSS, and I bought a new plug/pigtail for it as well. It's all on the shelf waiting for me to get to the CC installation. I can get you the info on the cables though...pretty sure they started using that style VSS and cable in 1988 (when the 5spd arrived).

Sorry, I'm no help with ZF5 stuff. I'm an M5R2 guy...lol. I know the slaves did change over the years, but I believe Jaci said that she took the whole hydraulic kit out of the '94, so she should be good to go. My '84 F150 was a factory hydraulic clutch truck, so the 5spd swap was very easy. I am now doing it in my 1980 (in a couple days) so I too have to drill the holes in the firewall like Jaci does. I bought a Bullnose hydraulic clutch pedal box/kit from a fellow member on here, so it should be a fairly easy install. I'll let you know later this week. This 1980 was a manual trans truck (T18, I believe) and it was swapped to an automatic, and I'm now swapping it back to a manual.

Welcome aboard Chris. I'm one of of the regular Canucks on here, but I'm on the opposite coast from BC;). Nice truck. The trim/molding that was removed from the outside is no longer available, but you probably already know that.

Perfect, thanks

I believe my 1980 has Bricknose glass in the doors. I might be wrong but it looks different from my 1984.

Tyler, Thanks for the pics. Is the radiator tipped in on the bottom quite a bit? I mean is the bottom further forward than the top? If so, how much?

Hey Tyler where did you mount the lower brackets for the rad? I did the top mounts today but it seems like the rad will be on quite an angle if I swing it inside more...

This truck has had some restoration work done to it. Maybe not the exterior paint, but they did do some work underneath it and a little in the engine bay.

No tach and no sliding rear window. I think we discussed this truck previously. Sure is pretty though.

And the different pressures shouldn’t matter?

You just remined of the EGR. The other difference...of all the 300/6 trucks I have looked at up here in Canada, the later ones (1985-1986) were all non-EGR. So not only did we not get the feedback carbs, we deleted the EGR at the same time. I'm not sure why though... Maybe I'll just order one of the earlier fuel pumps and be done with it. I should have clued in before I ordered these...the "Canadian spec" pump listing must be a mistake as the same reman carb (Autoline C6077) is listed as the replacement for the whole era with the standard YF carb. Fyi, I checked both of my factory service manuals (1984 and 1985) and they both indicate a test pressure of 5-7 psi for the 300 mechanical fuel pump. They have sections for the YFA and YFA feedback, but make no mention of a different fuel pump for each of them. Was it only the old YF carbs that only required 2.0 psi?

I remember a guy talking about an old Jeep with no gauges one time...he said if the engine starts to tap, then it needs oil. If steam starts to blow it's too hot, and if it won't start then it is not charging...lol. Who needs gauges? Ha.

Don't know him from any of the forums, but he sure did a nice job. I wish I could do body work (and had a place TO do it). I'm going to paint something before I die...lol.

Ahh yes, right...the clutch fan only came later on, didn't it?...Like '83? I am not sure when they started using the clutch fan? It could of been with any truck that had Factory AC from say 80 on up but I am not sure Because the motor was sold from the parts truck with factory AC, before I bought itI don't know if it had a clutch fan or not? I can tell you it does a number on the AC condenser when pulling the motor as I had to replace it. I just used what was on my truck when I bought it but I did add the fan shroud like a factory AC truck should have. Dave ---- Back to the clutch fan! I made a tool this morning with some angle I found in the shop. It is crude, but it worked perfectly. Once I could hold the water pump from turning, the clutch fan nut broke free fairly easy. Threads were actually nice and clean under all that rust. In any case, I'm in pretty good shape now. I need to order a water pump and gasket, and now probably another fuel pump, and within a day or so after that will be ready to reinstall the core support. I was thinking about how peaceful and quiet it was working in the shop this morning. If you enjoy this kind of work (and you don't mind working alone...lol) then it's as good as any therapy one could pay for. Trying to be positive here....I still have so much work to do, and so far to go...lol.

You just remined of the EGR. The other difference...of all the 300/6 trucks I have looked at up here in Canada, the later ones (1985-1986) were all non-EGR. So not only did we not get the feedback carbs, we deleted the EGR at the same time. I'm not sure why though... Maybe I'll just order one of the earlier fuel pumps and be done with it. I should have clued in before I ordered these...the "Canadian spec" pump listing must be a mistake as the same reman carb (Autoline C6077) is listed as the replacement for the whole era with the standard YF carb.

Greg, They were an option in the Bullnose trucks, but in my experience they were rare. It would have a lot to do with all of the lower trim trucks we had out here on the east coast, but in all of the Bullnoses I have ever looked at here, I have never seen one with factory delay wipers. Now...in the 1987-up trucks, some of those options started to become more standard.

Ha! Well, it is a bit of a long story, but this old rust bucket was sitting in a backyard that I drove by occasionally, and I dropped in to ask about it one day. Turned out it was a 1980 F150 Flareside 4x4. The bed was in pieces in the house, and just the cab and frame were outside. When I went in to look at what was left of the Flareside bed, he actually had almost enough parts to build two beds. So I dragged the thing home for next to nothing, and have been slowly trying to rebuild it. It was missing a whole bunch of other parts...like transmission and driveshafts...lol, transfer case, etc. It ended up having a bad frame...lol, so I had the stunned idea to go buy another truck for the frame and axles, trans, etc. That truck was a 1995 F150 4x4. So now I'm trying to fuse the two of them together, and fix all the rust...haha.

Gentlemen...300/6 specialists (to be specific)...lol. So I ordered a new Carter fuel pump for the 300 that is in my 1980 project. Since I've confirmed that the engine is a 1986, I have been using it as my baseline for ordering parts. When I looked on Rock Auto, it showed two different fuel pumps for 1986...one for Canada, and one for USA. However, the Canadian pump that I ordered is not the same as the pump that was installed on the engine: Notice that the mounting flanges and pump arm positions are different. If you look at the mounting boss in the 300 block, it looks like it will accept either pump: So after a little more research, it looks like the pump that was installed was the "USA spec" Carter M60330, and the Canadian spec pump I bought is a Carter M60387. I looks like I can bolt either one on...I guess? The specs on the pumps are as follows: M60330: 25gph at 2.0 psi M60387: 18gph at 5.5 psi M6807: 30gph at 2.0 psi (Rock Auto lists this carb for 1979 and back a couple years) Rock Auto lists the carbs as follows: 1979- Lists the M6807 1980-1984 Lists the M60330 1985-1986 Lists the M60330 for USA, and the M60387 for Canada. However, when you look up the carburetors, the same Autoline C6077 carb is listed as the YF replacement from the 1970's right up until 1986. (The truck came with an Autoline C6077 reman carb installed). What I'm getting at is that even if the carb fits, the pump flow specs don't seem to jive. It is my understanding that we never did get the feedback carbs in Canada. I have personally never seen one on a truck anywhere. As far as I know, we got the regular old YF right up until the end of 1986. So, if the carb (YF) stayed the same all along, why did the fuel pump specs change? It would seem to me that the pump listed for Canada for 1985 and 1986 with the lower flow and higher pressure is a mistake, and should probably be the pump for the feedback carbs? Didn't they run a lot leaner than the regular old YF's? Any thoughts good or bad? Can I just go ahead and run the lower flow/higher pressure pump, or should I get the Carter M60330?

Hey Frogger, I have one in my 1984 F150, and I'm almost positive that the fittings are the same, but I did not do a direct swap. When I was rebuilding my truck and fixing up the frame, etc I ripped out all of the brake lines and original master cylinder. I didn't install the new one until several months later. I made all new lines, but I'm pretty sure I re-used the larger of the two fittings because I didn't have a new one, and the other fitting is just one of the regular sized 3/16" brake line fittings. I did read just recently that a guy went to the junkyard and grabbed a later master cylinder, and all he had to do was reverse his original lines, and everything bolted in place no problem. Take that with a grain of salt, but I'm pretty sure the fittings are the same, just reversed for front and rear. I can measure the hex of the fittings if it would be any help.

David, I'm a little late to the game here, but I know that you're away anyway...so technically not too late. Merry Christmas to you and the family (and the Bullnoses in your family...lol). I was just checking the temperatures and it looks like I'll be having a warmer Christmas that you are. How in the heck does that happen?>..lol. Supposed to be 55.4F here Christmas day, and only going down to 50F through the night.