Rembrant

My friend Chris just removed a 300/6 from a California emissions truck (to install a 460). If there's anything that you need, he might have some stuff leftover.

I bought the Fairchild complete kit with door seals and even a rear window seal, and I'm pretty happy with how it all fit in the end. I don't have much to compare it to though as my originals were all rotten and falling apart, and I haven't looked at any others. I don't use my vent window...it has been closed since I installed the seals, but my wife has used the passenger side, and it seemed to work fine.

Before I go too far, I should confirm that this truck actually has Bricknose doors/windows in it. I am not near my 1984 at the moment to compare, but the measurements are below: The dividing bar between the vent window and door window is a solid 1 1/4" wide, and I believe the Bullnose one is only an inch or smaller even? And the window itself is just a hair over 21" wide between the seals. I know that they're not 1992-1996 windows, so I am assuming that they are 1987-1991? (Or maybe they are Bullnose, and my eyes are just playing tricks on me?) Anybody? Jim, as the resident Bricknose owner?...

Good morning gentlemen, I am looking for the dimensions (thickness, really) of the two spacers that go between the power steering pump rear bracket and the engine block. See picture below.

Guys, I’m looking for a pair of left and right vent windows for 1987-1991 doors. If you happen to have a decent set collecting dust let me know. Thanks.

It is hugely satisfying to install new (and useful) parts! I'm a huge proponent of this! lol.

Just another FYI from the garage...you guys may already have one of these, but man oh man have I been making great use of this: https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Rubber-Eraser-Adapter/dp/B07L1BVGMQ/ref=pd_lpo_469_img_1/133-3871901-5728811?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07L1BVGMQ&pd_rd_r=de3acf12-cc3c-4db0-928d-7bffe0d9779e&pd_rd_w=VvmYc&pd_rd_wg=MKY0M&pf_rd_p=337be819-13af-4fb9-8b3e-a5291c097ebb&pf_rd_r=3E2N0GT0BHTTHJ9CQ1GW&psc=1&refRID=3E2N0GT0BHTTHJ9CQ1GW I wish I had known about these things a few months ago or even years ago. Maybe it's just me but I always seem to be removing decals and adhesive from something. This thing works amazing. I used it on my wife's wheels this afternoon (see also Rimsavers thread) and also this morning to remove the old sticky material from the cab of the 1980 F150 where the windshield visor had been installed. This thing just whirrs through that old stuff that I would have normally spent hours removing until my fingernails were bleeding haha. For the $10 bucks they cost, I won't ever be without one again!

Oh man, did I get the look (and growl) of anger from the passenger seat that night...haha.

We had this car for over a year before I even realized that they were on there...haha. I didn't even know what they were, and the few local shops I called didn't know what they were either. Anyway, they're just a plastic guard with 3M adhesive strip on the back. The kit comes with cleaner prep, and an adhesion promotor/primer. Here is what the cross section looks like.

Gentlemen, After working on the old 1980 project truck for a couple hours this morning, I promised Mrs. Rembrant that I'd get the summer wheels ready for her car. Part of "getting them ready" was to install a new set of RimSavers. I only found out about this product recently, so I thought I'd mention it to you guys...maybe not for use on your trucks, but maybe on your cars (or significant other car, or kids cars, etc). But first, the funny story on how I discovered these things in the first place. I had hounded my wife for years not to scuff up the wheels on her car when trying to park near a curb, etc. She actually did really well. Last fall, we were going out for dinner with another couple and when trying to park downtown, it was ME that scuffed her wheel up against the carb, and fairly hard too. Boy did I eat it for that one...but anyway. I had a look the next morning and found that the car had these plastic covers stuck on the wheel lips, and I didn't even know that they were on there. They had obviously been installed by the previous owner or the dealer that sold us the car (used, 3 years old). So I did a little research and found out that the car had a set of dark grey or graphite grey Rimsavers installed. https://www.rimbladesusa.com/product/rimsavers/#:~:text=RimSavers%20are%20the%20most%20durable,removal%20of%20the%20tire%20required. I thought great, the previous owner of the car must have really cared about the car and installed these Rimsavers to protect the precious rims! So I ordered a new set a month or so ago, and just got around to installing them today. Guess what I found underneath them... So, not only are they a great idea to protect the edges of your alloy wheels, but they are apparently also great at hiding previous damages...haha. The dealer may very well have installed these themselves...I guess, same as anything else when trying to pretty-up a lease return to put back out on the lot. Anyway, I cleaned off all the old adhesive (By the way...I just recently bought my first eraser wheel for the drill for removing decals and adhesive, etc...man do I love that thing too and wonder where it was my whole life). New Rimsavers installed: That's all. Just a Sunday story from the garage. Figured that somebody else might find these things useful. They come in various colors, and they blend in quite well on our wheels.

You did teach them well, obviously. I call it the privilege of having had good parents .

This truck has wicked patina...I think I'm with Scott here. I'd almost want to leave it like that. Oh...and GAC...have you priced a paint job yet??....OMG...get a couple quotes and they may very well help you decide what direction to go with it. Cool truck though. I like it. I've seen where lots and lots of people have sealed up that surface rust and on some trucks it looks great. Like Scott above me though, I know nothing about it. Oh...and don't feel bad about what you've gotten yourself into...haha, I go through it in waves and wonder OMG what did I do...this is insane...then I calm down and get back to work (sometimes after a break haha).

Dave, The truck was painted I'm guessing about 30 years ago. I don't when exactly, but the paint on the truck was on it when it was sold in 1995, and I'm guessing that whoever had it before that didn't paint it to sell it, so I just guess at sometime in the early 1990's. The paint is single stage...even wiping it with Spray-9 will turn a rag blue...lol. All I had painted was 4 pieces. The new homemade bed sides, the original headboard that I rebuilt, and a used rear sill I bought from a guy in Georgia. I've been trying my hardest to touch up all the other parts...well...the whole rest of the truck really. The tailgate had about 40 screw holes in it...seriously. There were 29 just on the inside, and another 10-12 along the outside top edge where there had been snaps for a tonneau cover that was installed years ago. I welded every hole closed, then ground smooth and puttied. Not wanting to paint the whole tailgate, I just ground/sanded down the top edge and then sprayed with gravel guard and painted with a rattle can I had mixed up in the correct Ford code 3B. I think it turned out OK, and it saved me from having to do the whole gate. The bed still has no floor. I'm going to do it in wood, and so far the best option is with Red Oak ($320 bucks, for 7 boards cut to fit). I was going to do metal like you did, but I can't find a floor around here that isn't rotted out. Buying new metal bed floor panels didn't make much sense to me...the freight and work to install, I might as well put wood in there. If I can find something cheaper than the red oak I'll do it...but that is almost guaranteed to be pine or spruce...not sure I want to do that, either. Maybe. I put all the holes in the factory locations on the bed sides so that they will align with the bed strips. I just don't have the inner fender humps...and don't need them anyway. Only the Flareside purists will know the difference. The pin strips are aftermarket...is that what you were asking about the stripes? I've found new replacements, which I might order to repair some spots. They are half an inch wide...one strips is 1/4", the other is 1/8", and they are 1/8" apart. The hardest thing I have to do (in my mind) is to fix the holes in the cab and front fenders without having to paint the whole truck. I have to do both cab corners yet, and 15-20 screw holes in the cab from things that were removed (grab handles, visor, etc). Not sure how I'm going to do it yet, but I'm wanting to keep the 30 year old patina of the truck...and I'm not wanting to spend thousands of dollars to paint it...that's not happening this time...lol. Got the passenger side assembled today. A friend of mine dropped by to help me with the fenders. They're a real pain to do when the bolts aren't welded to the sides like Ford did them...lol. I still have a whole bunch of work to do, but I'm aiming to have it on the road in May. Oh man...I have to tell you guys that I had a terrible rush of panic when I first dropped the new bed on the frame...and the bolt holes in the frame didn't line up! My first thought was that I built the new bed sides too short...and then second I thought oh no...the 1995 frame is different in the back end and I didn't know until after I did all this work (and money...lol). Anyway...turned out to not be a big deal. I had to drill two new holes at the very end of the frame. The Bullnose frames have two sets of holes here...or at least my 1984 Flareside does. I assume one set of holes are for the Flareside bed, and the other set for the Styleside bed...but the 1995 frame didn't have the holes for the 1980-1987 Flareside bed (obviously). I drilled them and voila, problem solved! But man...did my heart sink for a few minutes prior to that...lol.

Pipelines? Haven't they all been cancelled?...lol. Just kidding...no need to reply to that. Ship building is HUGE here...local shipyard has decades of work lined up building our new DND vessels. PS: I love my little Lincoln welder. I did stick welding for years before I ever touched a MIG, so I might find it easier than some, but man I feel like I could teach anybody to weld with my machine in no time. Like everything else...if a dummy like me can do it, I'd argue that anybody can;).

Dave, The truck was painted I'm guessing about 30 years ago. I don't when exactly, but the paint on the truck was on it when it was sold in 1995, and I'm guessing that whoever had it before that didn't paint it to sell it, so I just guess at sometime in the early 1990's. The paint is single stage...even wiping it with Spray-9 will turn a rag blue...lol. All I had painted was 4 pieces. The new homemade bed sides, the original headboard that I rebuilt, and a used rear sill I bought from a guy in Georgia. I've been trying my hardest to touch up all the other parts...well...the whole rest of the truck really. The tailgate had about 40 screw holes in it...seriously. There were 29 just on the inside, and another 10-12 along the outside top edge where there had been snaps for a tonneau cover that was installed years ago. I welded every hole closed, then ground smooth and puttied. Not wanting to paint the whole tailgate, I just ground/sanded down the top edge and then sprayed with gravel guard and painted with a rattle can I had mixed up in the correct Ford code 3B. I think it turned out OK, and it saved me from having to do the whole gate. The bed still has no floor. I'm going to do it in wood, and so far the best option is with Red Oak ($320 bucks, for 7 boards cut to fit). I was going to do metal like you did, but I can't find a floor around here that isn't rotted out. Buying new metal bed floor panels didn't make much sense to me...the freight and work to install, I might as well put wood in there. If I can find something cheaper than the red oak I'll do it...but that is almost guaranteed to be pine or spruce...not sure I want to do that, either. Maybe. I put all the holes in the factory locations on the bed sides so that they will align with the bed strips. I just don't have the inner fender humps...and don't need them anyway. Only the Flareside purists will know the difference. The pin strips are aftermarket...is that what you were asking about the stripes? I've found new replacements, which I might order to repair some spots. They are half an inch wide...one strips is 1/4", the other is 1/8", and they are 1/8" apart. The hardest thing I have to do (in my mind) is to fix the holes in the cab and front fenders without having to paint the whole truck. I have to do both cab corners yet, and 15-20 screw holes in the cab from things that were removed (grab handles, visor, etc). Not sure how I'm going to do it yet, but I'm wanting to keep the 30 year old patina of the truck...and I'm not wanting to spend thousands of dollars to paint it...that's not happening this time...lol. Got the passenger side assembled today. A friend of mine dropped by to help me with the fenders. They're a real pain to do when the bolts aren't welded to the sides like Ford did them...lol. I still have a whole bunch of work to do, but I'm aiming to have it on the road in May.

Haven't had it out in the daylight yet Jim, but I think the match is not too bad. Of course the base clear is much more glossy up close, but when the old single stage is all buffed with compound and waxed, it pops pretty good too. I know I've mentioned it before, but this truck shows well in pictures but is really not very nice in person...it's pretty rough. However, I'm hoping I can clean it up enough to make it presentable as a 20/20 truck...looks good from 20 ft and 20 mph...lol.

Lookin' good!

Code "3L" is Dark Blue Metallic (1982-1985?). Very nice color. I had saved pictures of a few different trucks with 3L paint as I was going to use that code myself. It is absolutely stunning in certain light. My 3B Midnight Blue Metallic is really dark, but I like it. I believe this truck below is 3L Dark Blue Metallic. Very nice! New bed sides are on the truck, finally! Still a lot of work to do, but it looks like a truck again!

Code "3L" is Dark Blue Metallic (1982-1985?). Very nice color. I had saved pictures of a few different trucks with 3L paint as I was going to use that code myself. It is absolutely stunning in certain light. My 3B Midnight Blue Metallic is really dark, but I like it. I believe this truck below is 3L Dark Blue Metallic. Very nice!

I can’t help with the 351M or the ZF5 specifically but I just did an M5OD 5spd swap in my 1980 F150 so I can assist with the modifications related to the cab and pedals, etc. I’m traveling today but will be back to my computer tonight.

Hi Chris, The truck is two tone, but the dark blue is Ford code 3B midnight blue metallic used between 1979-1981. The original paint was single stage, and the shop used their scanner camera to come up with the closest match in base/clear. So the new color on the panels I just had done is a GM color called “Old blue eyes metallic”. A quick Google search shows that it was used on various 2016-2018 vehicles? I don’t know how well it’s going to match up until I bolt the fenders, steps, and tailgate to the bed...which have 30 year old 3B single stage on them. Fingers crossed that it won’t be too drastically different. I ran into this when I had my 1984 Flareside painted. They had a really hard time converting the old single stage Ford 3P into a modern base/clear. A bit of an issue around here is that it’s really hard to get anybody to spray single stage paint. It has been outlawed in certain areas due to new VOC regulations and has basically become backyard body shop paint. Another issue coming down the line is that both the body shop and a separate auto body paint supplier told me that many of the paint companies will be deleting a lot of the old 80’s and older paint codes. This may be an issue specific to Canada as they will likely completely ban the single stage paints at some point. They new standard is the water based base/clear coatings. $$$$$

The shop did some spraying today!

Hi Bigfridge, I have a 1984, also with the 302 and I too installed a 4bbl intake and Holley 600 cfm carb. I thought Holleys were much more popular than they are with the truck crowd, but it seems a lot of people lean more towards the Edelbrock carbs. I don't know much about them but I wanted a Holley and that is what I went with. It works great so far!

I started my 300 six after six years of sitting (if not longer) and I didn't prime it. I did however lube the cylinder walls several times, starting first with Kroil, and then later Fluid Film. I had turned it over by hand many times over a few months before finally trying to start it. Always better to prime it I'm sure, although I wouldn't worry about 6 months too much.

Yup, they sure do. Funny how often you can look under the front of a Bullnose and see that crossmember all twisted up. Too bad the OP wasn't closer, I have an extra one (that's straight). If it's just lightly bent I'd try to straighten it, but if it's too nasty...well, better off to replace. As for the under bed spare...it was still intact under my 1984 when I bought it. I even had my dual exhaust routed around it so it didn't ruin the spare location. Funny thing...the spare was in the factory location, but it was bald. I don't know if this was a thing for you guys, but it was common here one time that when you had to buy the first set of replacement tires for a vehicle, you'd buy only 3 and then install the good spare tire, and then take one of the old worn out tires and make it a spare haha. Of course that was only in the days when you had a full size spare on a wheel that was the same as the 4 on the truck, but it most certainly was a thing, one time. I chuckled when I found the bald spare under the truck. Back in the day, nobody around here would leave a perfectly new tire under a truck to rot and decay...lol.