Rembrant

The Supercab rear window is from a 1992-1996 F series. Bullnose has the two narrow windows. I probably wouldn't have noticed but Scott pointed it out one time on a truck that had been Bullnose swapped. I'm not an expert on Supercabs though, so maybe I'm crazy and one of you will correct me. The ad says the truck is all original though, so who knows.

Oh, sorry...yes I bought all the pipe fittings loose and then fitted the whole thing together under the truck to position the pieces, and then took it all back out and welded everything together. I bought them at Canadian Tire, and I'm not sure what the equivalent store would be in the US. It's a blend of hardware, sporting goods, and auto parts all under one roof lol. It's our go to store. I assume the American auto parts stores sell pre-bent exhaust pipe fittings? Our local stores have a whole exhaust section with all these pieces, so you carry 'em all home in a bag and then assemble at home lol. We have Napa and CarQuest and similar shops here...but they don't cater as much to the DIY crowd. Yesterday was Kingpin installation. My first time ever doing old school bushings. I didn't want to hammer them in, so I used a piece of 1/2" fine threaded rod and it worked perfectly. After the bushing was about 1/3 of the way in I had to use a piece of pipe on my ratchet, but they still went in nice and smooth. My cheap Amazon adjustable reamer took some getting used to, but it worked OK in the end. I'm surprised about how much material actually had to be removed. It seemed like a lot to me. I didn't measure the bushing ID's once installed, but they're only 0.010" smaller than the OD of the pins prior to installation. Anyway, a reamer that was long enough to do both bushings at once would have been ideal, but mine was not. I had to do some finish work with sand paper, but I got a nice slip fit in the end. Today I'm on to reinstalling the drum brakes and doing wheel bearings.

Came across this '86 F150 on Ebay, but something isn't right. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204112597288?hash=item2f860f1128%3Ag%3AoTMAAOSwcldjMwCh&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5337650957&customid=&toolid=10049

I'm no help with the floor pan panels, but I can confirm that the weather stripping/door seals do not come with any of the body patch panels. I have a small commercial Lincoln welder with C02/Argon and while it was a bit expensive getting set up, it is a dream to weld with. Anybody could lay a beautiful bead with it, and I mean anybody. A roll of flux core wire came with it and it's still in the wrapper. I know lots of guys use flux-core, but I have zero experience with it so I can't comment on it at all. I have an Albee tank I bought from Air Liquide, so all I have to pay for now are refills. Its a bit more money up front for sure.

Are there shops out there still turning drums and rotors? I can't even imagine asking a shop around here...none of them would even know what I was talking about lol.

Great pics! It's so pretty up there. I have been in Tremblant a couple times, but the most recent was on a motorcycle trip in 2011. We flew through there at a high rate of speed on our way west! PS: I don't know where I thought you lived, but I didn't know that you were in Quebec!

Nice find Salans7, That is indeed an SROD 4x4 shifter assembly. I'd contact that seller and see if he has the other parts.

Right. That SROD was only used in the trucks from 1980-1983, and I think really uncommon in a 4x4 (and they're fairly uncommon in general, even in a 2wd). I thought I read somewhere that the SROD was only used in Bronco's when bolted to a transfer case, as the 4x4 pickups (if they had OD), got the SMOD transmission. Gary may know more. In any case, 4x4 linkage parts specific to the SROD will be about as hard to find as anything for these trucks. They're both kinda funky transmissions in 4x4's as the transfer case shifter is always to the right of the transmission shifter. In any case, good luck finding the parts.

Oh, here it is... https://www.americanvan.com/pick-up-truck-backwall-storage-system.html I seem to recall it being either $89 or $99 though, last time it was posted.

There's a company that still sells these...a generic one, not the Ford ones of course. Jim posted a link a long time ago...Jim, do you remember where? American Van or something like that? It was a guy I remember you saying you knew him (the local distributor I mean, in your area).

They are getting hard to find. The few trucks I have seen show up at the junkyards here with manual transmissions...that hydraulic clutch bellhousing is one of the very first things that gets scavenged. I had one of those 300/6 clutch pivot studs one time...a very nice one I removed from a 300 from an '80 or '81 Bullnose. I ended up giving it away on here and Ray Cecil grabbed it. Too bad too, because he sold that truck not all that long after. God knows where that stud ever ended up. Jon, did you try asking on one of the Facebook groups? I'm sure there are lots of guys on there with junked trucks that would send you a spare stud. Maybe we need to find a really good used one and have it copied for the sake of science! Gary, I've been meaning to ask...whatever happened to Keith Dickson anyway? Anybody ever talk to him. I figured he'd be a good resource for having scarce parts duplicated. (That reminds me...somebody really needs to come up with a radiator swap kit with brackets etc so that you can easily swap a 1985-1996 radiator into a 1980-1984 Bullnose. Man there have been a lot of people looking for early radiators lately...sorry Jon...didn't mean to hijack!). Anyway, good luck getting that broken stud out. Did it break off flush with the block casting?

Oh, sorry...yes I bought all the pipe fittings loose and then fitted the whole thing together under the truck to position the pieces, and then took it all back out and welded everything together. I bought them at Canadian Tire, and I'm not sure what the equivalent store would be in the US. It's a blend of hardware, sporting goods, and auto parts all under one roof lol. It's our go to store. I assume the American auto parts stores sell pre-bent exhaust pipe fittings? Our local stores have a whole exhaust section with all these pieces, so you carry 'em all home in a bag and then assemble at home lol. We have Napa and CarQuest and similar shops here...but they don't cater as much to the DIY crowd.

This was a great comment in the article LOL: "This may shock you, but nobody makes an off-the-shelf header for this six-cylinder LS head."

Thanks. The Mercury trucks are actually pretty common here in Canada. I wouldn't say they're 50/50 with the Fords or anything, but at any given car show around here, if there are 10 fomoco trucks there, 3 will be Mercs! On the exhaust, I bought all individual pieces and welded them together myself to make the pipes myself.

That's a clean install. Very cool job on the mounting brackets. This stuff is way over my head...when I read and look at it, my clunky old brain literally does not have room for this technology...lol. I'm still working with claw hammers and angle grinders lol. Nice job though. Well done.

Welcome to the group Tobias! I have spent quite a bit of time in Germany with my work. It is beautiful there, and I loved the food (and beer!).

Cool truck, can't wait to see more. I've had a couple Flaresides, and one with a 3-on-the-tree like yours.

As far as I know he is still making them, but he's not on here every day. I just assigned his name to my reply so I think that means he'll get an email.

Old truck is pretty straight looking.

Ya, I'm kinda leaving the wiring until last. I'm pushing my way through all of the mechanical items, one by one right now, and it's going super slow. Scott put me on to the Derale fan controller, so I have that on my mind but I haven't read much into it yet. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16797?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwyaWZBhBGEiwACslQo7-N-MOt__BVW6YqHwD_TInBaq4ajYuPz43opSK5SqwmfGyfVqudFBoCAgwQAvD_BwE I was really wanting to keep the stock 5.0 mechanical fan/clutch assembly, but there's just not enough room for it. Bummer.

Yes, it was the first thing I looked at. But now Cory has me thinking I'll try wrapping some e-tape on there just to see what happens. Thanks Cory! That plastic sleeves on the strikers usually decay and crack and break off/fall off. Sometimes though, they actually stay intact and just wear down and end up with a groove worn in the middle. That's what mine did at least.

Yes, custom length polygroove. My 3G is the 1994-1996 F150 style with the 3 long mounting bolts. My water pump is from a 1987 foxbody 5.0, but in hindsight it didn't need to be. I ended up using an EFI timing cover, and could have also used the correct 1996 F150 water pump, but I had already purchased the Mustang pump. They're dimensionally the same, but the Mustang pump has the round ports so it can be installed on a CW or CCW timing cover. Given the choice, I prefer Polygroove over V-Belt all day long. The 95amp 3G should provide more than enough power for me. Overall I will have fewer electrical gadgets than the donor 1996 F150 had, with the one exception being an electric radiator fan instead of the mechanical fan that the F150 had.

No, I meant that I'll be getting to the wiring of the 3G alternator soon. I'm not swapping one in...not really at least, but I'm re-wiring the truck from scratch, and I'm wiring it up as a carbed truck with Duraspark ignition and a 3G alternator. So it will be like swapping in a 3G alternator into a 1980 F150, except I'm starting from zero;). I have this kit: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/10104 And this kit: https://www.painlessperformance.com/wc/30812 Painless makes a 3G harness kit, but I'm not sure I need it yet. I saved the 3G harness from the 1996 F150, and the main harness kit comes with a big main fuse for the alternator, so I should be OK with what I have (if the old Ford harness reaches where I need it to go). Between the 3G write-ups on here and the ones Painless supplies, I should be OK wiring it in. It's not really a "3G swap", but it sorta is...lol.

Even if the plastic sleeve is still intact but worn down the door will rattle. I had this issue with the passenger door on my '84. I put a few wraps of electrical tape around it as a test and the knocking sound went away. I later installed new strikers, but the black tape worked for a long time. Wanna cure a loose door on a Bullnose???....install new door seals lol. I can provide a 100% guarantee that a door will cease to rattle after new door seals are installed...that is if you can even get it closed in the first place lol.

Well done Lucas! I will be getting to the 3G Alternator installation soon. I installed a 5.0 from a 1996 F150 into my 1952 Mercury, and will be wiring the truck from scratch, so this stuff will come in handy.