Rembrant

I have a 12 ton press at my work and a 50 ton. The 12 ton is just a cheap one from Princess Auto (Kind of our Canadian version of Harbor Freight). https://www.princessauto.com/en/12-ton-hydraulic-shop-press/product/PA0008604639 The 12 ton has served me very well with my automotive work. I have rarely ever had to use the 50 ton unit, and when I did it was usually because of needing more space, not more pressure. It has a larger press bench, but it would be overkill most of the time. It is similar to the unit below, but a higher end industrial brand: https://www.princessauto.com/en/50-ton-pneumatic-hydraulic-shop-press-with-foot-control/product/PA0008998049 I wouldn't hesitate at all in buying a 12 ton, but like anything else if there's a bigger one for only a couple bucks extra, then why not. I like the 12 ton because it's strong enough for most jobs, but it's light enough you can "feel" the work and you're less likely to damage your workpiece. And, you can always add a little heat when needed. I have Acetylene Torches at my work, but Mapp Gas is perfect for home use. That's what I've been using for the last 25-30 years. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-Welding-Soldering-Torches-Tanks/MAPP/N-5yc1vZc8lqZ1z0z746

Interesting for sure. Removeable Bronco top, diesel 2wd. I just hit follow on these guys on IG so I'll post up any pics for anybody that isn't on there. "cpaddict" is their Instagram name for anybody that wants to follow them. It's not something I'd ever want lol, but it gets a nod for being unique and still being very well intact! Neat find for these guys.

Just came across this interesting Bullnose on IG. They believe it to be the only one ever built. Purchased by a classic Ford F-series shop in Jasper, TX called Complete Performance. Screen snipped pics... Comment along with posting below: "So as many of you saw on the post last week. Our very rare Metropolitan by Magnum showed up today. This is NOT to be confused with a Centurion or a DaBryan. In fact we have one of each of those and will take some side by sides next week. Far as we have been able to determine this the ONLY Bullnose(80-86) Metropolitan. There have been many posted before but they are all in the 87-91 body style range. This one was brought to our attention by a customer of ours. Build Date is 1/85. Started as a Canadian chassis crew cab F350. It's powered by a 6.9 IDI diesel with an automatic transmission. Rarer yet it is NOT 4wd but in fact 2wd. A set of 16.5" aftermarket rims with a Ford optioned hub cap is what it rides on. Tons of options on wood trim, bronco removable top, rear tire swing gate, original jack(still in holder), steps, badging etc Over all it has very little rust or damage. Worst thing at the moment is a destroyed headliner. Be looking for more updates. Enjoy....."

I bought and paid for the two I have...got them in CD's from Ebay, and then a coworker of mine transferred the PDF's to my computer...something I wasn't able to do at the time for some reason or another. As for having the 1980 EVTM posted, I think that's a great idea. I almost bought the 1980 FSM when I was rebuilding my 1980 F150. Finding wiring info on the 1980 was really tough. In the end, I really didn't need it...I really didn't need the little bit of extra items I would have gained over the 84 and 85 FSM's that I had. In any case though, kudos to you for posting the 1980 EVTM, I think that's a welcome addition to the site.

I was never aware that they could be downloaded before. I have both 1984 and 1985 FSM's in PDF and they are my default go to, so I rarely use the forum EVTM, but I DO use a lot of the other documentation you have on here.

I can't stand that Whistlin' Diesel guy...

I can't save it;).

I like it Gary. It's bigger and better imho.

There is a company making a new Bullnose "complete" harness, but holy smokes it's expensive... https://www.americanautowire.com/shop/classic-update-kit-1980-86-ford-truck-bronco

Gary, The fan I bought is only 2.48" thick at the motor, and core mounting kits are available so it can go right on the rad if need be. I wanted the shroud and had just enough room for it, but it adds 3/8" or 1/2" or so.

Gary, I'm just going to buy another stock 3G alternator, I think it's 95 amp. I may just clean this one up and paint it if it works OK. My 2" offset isn't normal...I did it to clear the new power steering box I installed. I don't think anything is really considered normal with these swaps...anybody that I've talked to said there are no rules...every single one is different. I moved my radiator/core support ahead a couple inches...maybe 3". These trucks had two core support/radiator positions...one for V8, and one for inline 6. Most modern V8 swaps require the radiator be moved forward to the 6cyl position for the extra room.

The factory pushrods were not adjustable that I'm aware of. The only adjustable ones I've seen were the aftermarket ones that come with some new MC's. I'm not familiar with the '93 up master cylinders. I think they're different than the 84-86, and 87-92 versions. I'm sure the bore/stroke is the same, but otherwise they are different. Of the two M5OD swaps I did, I used new 1984 replacement MC's both times, and ordered the slave cylinders and hydraulic lines for 1991 models. I don't know if it makes any difference or not.

I call it a continuous vacuum bleeder, but it's a homemade affair. I put what is called a vacuum ejector on the cap of a pickle jar and connect a compressed air line to it. I then have a line I can attach to a bleeder screw, and then it applies full vacuum for as long as I need it to, hands free. I saw one somewhere...forget where now, but just made a cheap copy. I use it for brakes, hydraulic clutches, etc. It makes things much easier when working alone. Have you adjusted the master cylinder pushrod?

Ya, he replied in my FTE thread and said that with my picture above, looking from that view the rotation is CW. What end view to the manufacturer's reference when stating CW or CCW? New fan shroud and Spal low profile fan arrived yesterday finally. I had been waiting to order this for weeks...or months. Anyway, it fits! I don't think a regular fan would have fit, but the low profile version does the trick just fine! With the engine offset almost 2" to the right, the fan and the water pump pulley don't really occupy the same space anyway, but still, I didn't want them to be too close either. PS: Ignore that grungy old alternator...it's only on there temporarily.

Welcome aboard! I've spent a bit of time in Monroe on training and technical visits with one of the manufacturer's that my employer represents. Love it there. I remember them taking us to Mac's Speed Shop for BBQ, although I don't remember if that's actually in Monroe or not...but close. You'll like it here. Lots of great guys with a huge amount of knowledge!

That TTT would have to go as they were never offered in 4x4 trucks. The column could stay unless you swapped the truck to an auto trans. If you went with a floor shift, it doesn't really affect the column...you have a manual column already (with the key interlock button). It's a big job...I'd personally look for a 5spd setup to swap in if you were going to do it at all, but do lots of research. I know a couple guys that have done this swap. If you can find a wrecked truck with good 4x4 drivetrain and chassis, that sure makes it easier than hunting for parts and driveshafts that don't fit lol.

Welcome aboard! Speaking of New Hampshire, did you happen to catch the news blooper making the rounds this week where the girl reporter from Boston slipped back into her old accent and said "New Hampsha" haha. It's cute. I'm a big Flareside fan and have had three of them. Can wait to see and hear more about it. They didn't age well in the rust belt, so the few that are still around get lots of attention!

What do you mean that you cannot adjust it? Do you mean bleeding it? I've installed a couple M5OD 5spds but I do have a continuous vacuum bleeder which makes things like brakes and hydraulic clutches much easier to deal with.

I have a Ford FL-300 on my 302 currently...it's just a shorter version of the FL-1A. It has the small little ribs like the older filter in the video above. I did buy it from a local Ford dealer. The video below is the one that spooked me about the counterfeit parts, but it's a couple years old now. It's really just about Motorcraft coils and spark plugs, but it could certainly be done with oil filters easily enough. Counterfeit OEM parts have been around for quite a while now, especially for Euro stuff like Volkswagens. It's not a big concern of mine, but like the guy says in the video, you have to be careful where you buy this stuff. As he said...Amazon has a few trusted sellers, but EBay generally does not LOL.

I don't know really, but I've been a bit spooked about counterfeit Ford parts and such that are out there. If I do need to buy Ford stuff, I'll get it from the local dealer and pay extra for it. I don't trust Amazon or EBay anymore for stuff like that.

Beauty!

Very nice truck. Note the "H6" axle code...3.50 limited slip 9". Interesting that in the later Bullnose years, a 302 with NP435 got a 9" rear diff, and the exact same truck with an AOD would get a 3.55 8.8 rear diff. I forget exactly which combos still got the 9" rear end after 1983, but it was fairly specific. I think it's a 302 with NP435 or a 351w with a C6 that still got 9" diffs until 1987, and every other combo got the 8.8, or something like that. I remember Gary posting the details one time, but my memory is getting fuzzy. The 9" rear diff did show up in the trucks into the late 80's, but it wasn't random. It was will specific engine/trans combos only.

I was running Mobil TDT 5w40 in both my flat tappet 302 and 300 when I had them. Not sure what I'm going to run in my yet to be started newly built 302...but it's a roller engine, so I'm not overly concerned about it. https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants/for-personal-vehicles/our-products/products/mobil-1-turbo-diesel-truck-5w-40

Interesting. I bought a new 600CFM 4160 a few years ago and didn't notice this, but when I go back and look at the pics, it had the same choke plate. I bought that carb brand new in 2017 or 2018.

I'm not much help with the 4x4 stuff unfortunately, but one of the other guys may be able to assist. I did two M5OD 5spd swaps. The first one was 2wd, and the second was not really a transmission swap...I put a 1980 Bullnose body on a 1995 F150 4x4 chassis that already had the M5OD and I believe a BW1356 transfer case, or whatever the factory unit was at the time. So in this case I swapped in hydraulic clutch and the transmission/transfer case shifters, but the transfer case installation was a non-issue for me. I did at one time bolt up a transfer case and M5OD trans, but the transfer case was out of a 1985 F150 4x4, which would have been what, an NP208? I know it bolted on to the M5OD just fine. The NP205, I'm not sure.