Rembrant

Did you buy the speakers for the doors already? I installed speakers in the doors of my 1984 F150 (Which was a factory radio delete truck). I don't know how much it helped (if any help at all), but I installed a set of foam speaker bafflers behind the door speakers: https://www.crutchfield.ca/S-LNiwH4Kyryr/g_762/Foam-Speaker-Baffles.html I also insulated the doors behind the interior panels, but I can't find the pics at the moment.

Congrats man! What fluid are you using? I have a bit of a dilemma with mine 4R70W. Mine is a used transmission from a 1996 F150 (2wd). The trans has been drained...the seller did that before shipping it, and I later replaced the pan gasket and filter, so it's definitely dry. Problem is, I didn't pull the torque converter, and I don't know if the seller pulled it and drained it either. I guess my point is, I'm not 100% sure how much to put in it for fluid. I think I'll ask about that in my own thread lol. Sorry Nickelplate, I'm following your stuff closely here for the 4R70W and US Quick4 content!

Thanks for the feedback on the Summit carb. Interesting that you prefer the 500 CFM version over the 600. I was seriously looking at the 600 CFM version for my 351W HO. Going to have to rethink that now. I hope to be starting my 5.0 with new 500CFM Summit carb in a couple weeks, and I'm super stoked about it. I'm hoping that it makes my 5.0 run nice and smooth. I'll keep you posted John.

Ha! I was wondering why the tube was off. I bought a new dipstick tube from Summit, but it didn't quite line up with the mounting hole on the bellhousing so I ended up adding a spacer, I think about a 1/2" to get it to fit. Glad to know it will read correctly though...I'll be filling it soon.

Nickleplate with know for sure on the 4x4, but the 4R70W should be all dimensionally the same as the earlier AOD. Mechanically, it should be a direct swap, but you'll need controller and a TPS for the carb. The 4R70W, at least the SBF version, is actually an AODE-W. So it's an AOD plus the "E" for electronic, "-W" for wide ratio. The names are used interchangeably in the later 90's depending on who you're talking to. Mine is a 1996 2wd version, and while it was sold as a 4R70W, it actually says AODE-W on the metal tag on the side of it. According to some people, the trans didn't officially become a 4R70W until they put the mod motor bellhousings on them for the 4.6L that replaced the 5.0L.

Oh yes, I know that I need the brown wire with mine, but was curious if the factory EEC trucks had all of the same ignition wiring as the DSII trucks. All good.

Haha, yes, I sure do know! You will forever hold the crown for that firewall swap Dave, because I don't think anybody else would ever do it (even if they had the skills). But you know what I mean though...if you had an old system that wasn't working with rotten and warped plastics, etc...swapping in a new AC kit would be pretty slick in my opinion.

The Painless DSII Wiring harness will work just fine. I'm installing the exact same kit in my 1952 pickup today. Question for Gary or Jim though: Did the Non-DSII Bullnose gas trucks still have a ballast resistor in the harness? And would the brown wire from the "I" terminal to the coil be needed or not? Maybe that's a dumb question, I don't know...but I was wondering if a non-DSII truck is already setup for it in the harness? Installing this kit in my truck today;).

Well, you can get the main hardware like compressor and lines for the engine bay, but if you need any of the vacuum motors, blend doors, controls, ducting, etc that stuff is more difficult. I can't see anybody replacing a working factory AC system, but if you bought a 40 year old Bullnose to restore and none of the AC system worked, I'd install one of these kits in a heartbeat just to have all new stuff.

I also agonized over where to install the Quick4 controller in my '52, with even less real estate than a Bullnose interior/dash/firewall. I did end up installing it on the interior firewall, sort of behind the dash...it's a nice little unit, but it is not ideal for mounting in a visual area with the 50 wires hanging out of it. In hindsight, I wish I had installed it somewhere I could see it, but I'm trying to keep the '52 interior at least somewhat stock in appearance. FYI, I reached out to US Shift a couple days ago asking if there was any way to use a remote screen, and they replied and said they are currently in design/development of just such a device and it should be available later in 2023. I will likely just drive around with my laptop for a while so I can see what gear I'm in, and also view the transmission temperature. Once I have everything set up and all the bugs worked out, I'll probably be OK without being able to see the display (but I still kinda wish that I could). I'll be following your thread to see how you make out with this. My Quick4 is all installed and wired up with the trans, but I still have to finish wiring the truck which includes the input wiring of the Quick4 (like the TPS, power supply, etc). Did your Quick4 come with the correct 4R70W map(s) already loaded up and ready to go? My intent is to run mine with whatever stock (smoothest shifting) map is available, and I bought a B&M shift handle with a button so I can use it to disengage O/D if need be.

Hey Nickelplate, I'm sure you mentioned it earlier, but you're using a US Shift Quick4 controller to run that 4R70W aren't you?

Don't know if anybody happened to see this posted on Facebook earlier today, but it looks like Vintage Air released an aftermarket AC system to retrofit into AC equipped, and non-AC Bullnose trucks. This is very cool, and it looks like a really nice kit. I wish it was available when I had my '84 Flareside. https://www.vintageair.com/surefit/complete-kits/?make=Ford&year1=1980&model=F%20Series Kits for inline 6 and V8, and nice instructions also.

Great pics Gary, looks like fun!

Cool, thanks Gary!

I'm going to do just that Jim, thanks! I bought the controller to protect the pump (and for other safety reasons), but it will serve as a fine trigger for a choke relay. Any idea how many amps or milliamps a typical Holley choke pulls?

I do...I think! One more question then... What would happen if I installed this coil with 4.6 ohm primary into a Bullnose truck with a 1ohm resistor in the coil wiring? (PS: I just check the resistor that came with the Painless wiring kit, and it is reading 0.8 ohms). I guess what I'm trying to say is, if I install the resistor, and it technically isn't even needed, will there be a negative effect on the ignition? Can you think of a reason why an aftermarket coil would have such a high primary resistance? Would there be a reason for them to engineer it that way?, assuming the system it's being install in, like a Bullnose, doesn't require it.

That's great Ron, I remember you talking about the concrete issue before. Congrats!

I installed a 3G from a 1996 F150, and everything else is from scratch basically, or with Painless wiring harnesses. I think I'll use the fuel pump output to trigger a relay for the choke. The fuel pump controller relay closes for 3 secs on power up, but won't stay closed until it gets a running tach signal.

Ya, I'm going to buy a new starter relay with both the "S" and "I" terminals to take care of that, and I'll install the ballast resistor and go with it for now. I'll do some tests once I have the 12v supply all hooked up. I'll assume it needs the resistor for now. Thanks guys.

Oh...while I have you Gary... Any suggestions on how to get run-only power to my carburetor choke? I know this has been discussed before, but I'm not remembering how to do this. I am using a little fuel pump controller, so I guess I could use the fuel pump output to trigger a relay for the choke power. https://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html The little Holley pump says it needs to be fused with a 3-5 amp fuse, so it obviously doesn't draw much. The pump controller is rated for 7.5amp...or at least it has a 7.5 circuit breaker.

Right. I'm just using a basic dash mounted ignition switch. I'll grab another relay that has both terminals...they're not expensive anyway. Thanks Gary.

Gary, yes sir, I always check and it does read zero with the probes touching. At the end of the day, it's not a big deal and I'll test it with power on it when I have it all wired up, it's just one of those things that annoys me greatly that it isn't indicated on the outside of the coil one way or another.

RockAuto is better than it was, but it can still be confusing if you're not overly familiar with the vehicle you're ordering parts for...or not familiar with Ford parts (and the many changes) during that era. RockAuto has since fixed what I would consider a fairly serious issue and that was that they had the 351M and 351W parts all together, and it caused a lot of hassles for several people. Imagine though...explaining to some data entry kid, probably not even in North America, the difference between a 5.8 and a 5.8 lol. Unless you were born before 1980 and have some Ford knowledge, forget it. Anyway, RockAuto is one of those sites that requires some knowledge going in.

Second wiring question... The brown wire in the diagram below (full 12v+ to coil during starting only). What is the point of having this wire on the "I" terminal of the solenoid? I know what the wire does obviously, but my Bullnose trucks never had a wire on the "I" terminal of the starter solenoid/relay. The reason I ask is that I already have a starter solenoid/relay, but it's one of the ones that does not have the second "I" terminal. I guess the point of it being on the starter relay is that it gets full battery voltage and does not pass through the main harness into dash and fuse box, etc.

IIRC it was 40A to pull and 13A to hold. Gary does have the sheet here on the site. I'm using a 40A cube relay and 12Ga. wire. It's been working for as long as I've had my little relay box installed, Gents, I'll pulled the new DSII wiring harness out of the package today and it prompted me to check my new coil (again) to see if I could determine if it required an external ballast resistor or not. Ideally it is indicated on the outside of the coil, but it is not noted on mine. It's a Spectra Premium C610 coil from RockAuto: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6280596&cc=1121443&pt=7060&jsn=454 Screen snip below. I ordered the coil for a 1984 F150. I was reading some different stuff online, like the nice write-up below, and my 1984 Factory Service manual to see if I could test the coil with my meter to determine with 100% certainty whether the external resistor was needed or not. https://www.gomog.com/allmorgan/coiltest.htm The 1984 Factory service manual gives the following specs to check the coil: Primary winding ohms: 0.8 - 1.6 Secondary winding ohms: 7,700 - 10,500 When I check my new Spectra coil, it reads 9,600 ohms on the secondary, which is fine, but it reads 4.6 ohms on the primary. With a reading of 4.6 ohms, it's way off of what the FSM says it should be (if it was the original 1984 Ford coil at least). It seems like it doesn't need the external resistor, but maybe I'm doing something wrong. Any advice from the Duraspark II knowledge base? I don't care if it needs the resistor or not, I just want to confirm it somehow. Thanks gents!