Littlebeefy

That's even better, Jim. So one side of the cycle switch connects to the LG/P wire and one side connects to the Sanden and Bob's your uncle?!?

Thanks. Based on the EVTM, it seems like my drawing is correct. I can ignore the EEC connection and the vacuum solepot, so all that's left is what I have drawn. I still don't understand it (like I said, extremely weak with circuits; simply does not compute so I think I'm missing that part of my brain) but understanding it is not a requirement for making it.

So is this right?:

Hi all, As many of you already know, there is very little of my original truck left, so everything I do somehow has to Frankenstein together some old parts and some new parts. This is no different. It's an '84 Bronco, 460 transplant using an Edelbrock Pro Flo 4. The original EEC has been pulled out, but most of the original wiring for everything that wasn't connected to the EEC remains. The Bronco came with the factory A/C and has the original hardware installed for the most part, except for the compressor. All of the other parts have been replaced with new OEM style where available. The compressor is a Sanden 5 series, I believe. I am trying to wire the A/C controls to the clutch cycle switch and the compressor. As I understand it, the light green wire with pink (or purple?) dashes coming from the firewall harness connects to the clutch cycle switch. That is as far as I get before confusion sets in. It appears that the other connector on the cycle switch should go to the only wire on the Sanden (it doesn't have a ground because it grounds via the engine mount). That makes sense, except it doesn't account for the diode that I have on the original harness. In looking at the diagram on the EVTM, it seems like the wire that goes to the Sanden should also splice off, go through the diode and then go to ground, which does not make sense to me at all because then it would never actually result in power being sent to the clutch (it would just follow the path of least resistance and go to ground instead). I never trust myself in these situations; I had to take circuits twice in college and still got lucky to get through it with a C so it is not a strength for me. Any advice here?

I don't see why the year should matter. The shroud essentially just bolts to the radiator. What is relevant is where the hole is centered and the width for the blades.

I have a set of Mad Dog 460 headers that I pulled out of my truck. Good condition. Surface rust but no clearancing or dents. Blast em and coat em and they'll look new. These are the headers with the 2.125" tubes and 3.5" collectors. Much bigger than the L and Ls. I don't think you can get these anymore. Will someone on here give me $250 for them? I'm in Atlanta and I'll box and ship at cost.

Thank goodness for that second guy! But the first guy had a really smart idea. I like that yellow wire. Is the fat yellow wire with the blue connector that is not connected to anything the one you are referring to? I’m assuming it’s not the one above it that could pass for light green. If not, what is that wire?

1984 Bronco. Stock wiring and fuse box. I’m terrible at electrical. I really need some advice. I need to wire in my new electric parking brake actuator. It needs two connections. The first is an “always on” power source that I can draw ten amps from. The second is a safety wire that connects to the ignition wiring. That second wire is to ensure that you cannot engage the brake while the engine is running. There is an “ideal” way to do this and a “good enough” way to do it. The ideal way would be to take an empty spot on my fuse box. I don’t know which spot to use and I don’t know how to do that. I have a spare fuse box that I could pull a wire pigtail from. I just don’t know what I’m doing. Alternately, the good enough way is to use a fuse tap and come off an always on circuit that can supply the 10 amps. If I do that, what is the best fuse to tap? I can theoretically do the same thing with the ignition safety wire. I could use an unused switched circuit in my fuse block, or I can fuse tap a switched fuse (that’s effectively ignition wiring right?). Same questions as above. Which spot or which fuse? Thanks!

The drop from 2nd to 3rd is enormous. I always hated that gap. I got really good money when I sold that tranny. I got more for it than I paid for the ZF5 (like double). I heard that they are really popular in some chassis that they use for hot rods. It’s really short and it fits really well in that application. I don’t remember which but that’s partly why they are so hard to find. If you really want one, I think you should look on the rodder forums.

You know your key also rolls the window up and down, right?

I sold the one out of my Bronco a few years back. I was not a fan. Gear ratios were terrible.

Complete v-belt Saginaw swap includes pump, bracket, adjuster, bolts, spacer and 1 hose. I can’t tell you the condition of the pump or the hose, but those are easy to replace. One other hose will need to be bought new anyway. I know this fits a 351W. I heard it will also fit a 302 but I don’t know that for certain and I’m not sure that the adjuster portion would be the same part number. This definitely came off a 351W and I have all the parts to bolt it directly on.

I have an 84 with a D0VE (C8VE) 460, ZF5 sitting on a D44HP. Lift is probably 6 inches from stock on 37" tires. Got an NP205 and running 1330 up front. I've been using the Mad Dog fenderwell exit headers and am sick of rubbing them on the drivers side when I hit a bump while turning left. As the springs settle it's been getting worse. I'm looking for chassis exit headers. In theory, the L and L and the Hedmans would work except for a question around clearance over the front pinion on the D44HP. Anyone know for certain or have pics of them installed? Alternatively, does anyone know of any shorty headers that will fit? I heard that shortys for a 78/79 will fit because the gen 3 frame is narrower. Anyone know if that is true?

I have had really good luck with Forever Sharp: https://fssteeringwheels.com/collections/adapters

That is a really janky homemade spindle nut socket. I can’t imagine that thing allows you to torque spindle nuts correctly. Don’t you have Amazon? Maybe I’m just spoiled…