JimsRebel

https://www.delcoremy.com/alternators/alternator-features/remote-sense It seems Sense or S can mean different things to different manufacturers.

Here is a good article regarding using the stator output of 2G alternator to run a tachometer. https://www.electricalrebuilders.org/eren/archive/ere_2008/ere_01_08_analyzing_the_alternator_tach_signal.pdf The article... "Analyzing the Alternator Tach Signal" , is well written and very technical. It shows the stator output as a square wave. Personally, I would have expected a wave form shown in Gary's post. Different DVM would try to interpret this differently, but it would be half the power output, giving the choke a slower opening time. All 3 wires on the voltage regulator plug are inputs. Most likely the green wire was originally on the center position S. It is interesting that moving it to the I, and matching colors worked. When thinking of a 2G alternator it is important to remember the are two separate components, the ALT and the VR which is screwed to the side of the ALT. Meaning the wiring on the VR needs to match the expectation of the VR manufacturer. What I am trying to say is if you install a newer VR you might need all 3 inputs to get it to charge. 1987 and on use 3 wires. The 2 wires on the VR is a 1986 Ford Mystery question. Good luck, Jim #2

Hi Gary I got your email with the new drawing. Looks perfect, I also like the idea of the added note you put in there. Your site always has the best documentation. Jim #2

Friends don't let Friends buy G2 Alternators

https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Help-On-3G-Page-tp86569p88610.html

All 1986 G2 alternator voltage regulator plug I have seen are not wire per the diagram above. A long time ago, Gary had a 2G to 3G conversion page with a photo of the alternator harness. It matched everyone I have seen. With the green wire going to the center "S" input. Just 2 wires. There was an old thread... When Gary was asking for input, as he was making a 2G to 3G info page. The 2 wire plug VR was talked about then, in that thread. Jim number 2

You can use a full 12 volt choke cap and wire it to the stator output, it just takes about a minute longer to open the choke fully. I did some bench testing of different choke caps with both 6 and 12 volts applied to them, as I was considering going this route. It is by far the simplest fix. Jim

I did see the drawing, and yes it was correct, but the text earlier stated the relay would be used with the LG/R wire. Quote... My 2G had a three wire regulator plug. Maybe some didn't??? The drawing used here only has 2 wires. My truck only had 2 wires. It might just be a 1986 only issue, I don't know. On a 1986, with a 2G ALT, if it fails and you pick up a replacement 2G at the auto parts store, it will NOT work if you only have 2 wires on your wire regulator plug. You will have to replace the plug with a 3 wire plug to get it to work. Replacement voltage regulator plugs are sold as 2G - 4G. If you had a 3 wire 2G voltage regulator plug, it would fit (and work fine) into the 3G ALT as is. Jim #2

If you use the LG/R wire to power the volt meter you do not need a relay. The voltmeter would only get power with the Key ON. It is my understanding that you added a relay, when the voltmeter was reading "always HOT power" near the battery, to eliminate the parasitic battery drain ( .068 amps). Using a relay with a idiot light would cause a constant current flow through the light bulb filament, and a series circuit. You should test this on the bench with a relay - light combination. Or maybe the ALT would source the needed current for the relay. This is not something I would not recommend, at least at this point, to many unknowns. Regarding the 2G harness photo, showing the cut points: Keep in mind you will have to replace the voltage regulator plug with a NEW plug that has all 3 wires. Jim #2

The Rocket Man Volt meter has a range of 11.5 - 14.5 volts. I have no clue how he did this, I am not that smart. Here is a link with info. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1339746-how-to-swap-amp-meter-to-volt-meter.html#post14720315 Jim #2

Amen, brother! Voltmeter Source: When I wired my voltmeter I had an extra KEY ON wire left over from my DS2 conversion, so I just used it. This was not something I spent a lot of thought on, it was just quick and simple. I also am not trying to say my way is better. It is really a reflection on how I am ... cheap, lazy, use what you got and never spend a dollar. I am also happy to live in the "good enough" category. That said, I wanted to share what I learned while driving the truck this way the last 6 years. If I run the power windows you will see a voltage drop on the voltmeter. For me, this is just good troubleshooting info. It tells me the window motor is drawing a normal amount of current. While at a stop light, you can see a little movement of the needle with the brakes ON-OFF. Nice to know the brake lights are working . I have headlight relays so I don't see much usable info here. The Heater Fan is a high load of the fuse box and will draw the needle down, say 100% to 75% with fan on high, but I rarely use it on high. But if I find the need to see what the ALT is sending to the battery I can just turn off the heater and the needle jumps back up. If my ALT had a hard failure my needle would drop from 100% to below 50%. Using a stator relay it would drop from 100% to zero. If you didn't notice a 50% drop would you notice a 100% drop? Is the relay worth the extra complexity? Regarding a 2G to 3G conversion WITH AMP METER: I would say just cap off the amp meter wires until you can change out the amp meter to a volt meter. Again, these a just my thoughts and my personal experiences to add to the pool of info, to get to the final product. Jim #2

How I did my 2G to 3G swap: 1: Buy a new Voltage Regulator plug, as you will need all 3 wires, not just 2 wires. Wire in the new plug, just match the colors, adding the stator wire. 2: I back fed the current power wire using a Large Fusible link. This was solder in at the junction point a few inches from the power plug, where 2 wires join into 1 black wire. The original 2G power plug was left so could keep my 2G as a ride along spare. At this point you will have to decide if you think you truck will ever need more AMPs than the fusible link can provide. Not sure??? Go to step 3 3: I add a large wire from the ALT output stud > to a 100 amp Circuit Breaker > Battery side of the starter solenoid. I have a photo of the 2G harness below. I have more photos if you want me to email them directly to you. . Jim #2

I Think the Volt Meter should be a separate issue, and not tied to the ALT swap. It really a personal choice as to where you want to monitor the voltage, Battery or Fuse box, for example. It's really just 2 wires to connect, power and ground. Also I really don't understand the reason for using ... Volt Meter Relay, energized by the stator output. So if the ALT fails the voltmeter quits working? This is when you really need it to work, to figure out how much farther you can drive before the engine quits. You also can not check battery voltage before starting, or during cranking the engine over. Regarding the AMP meter: Even when it work like new, it was really useless. Do you really think you would notice a slow "needle deflection" to the left when on a long freeway drive, (daylight hours). After cruising on the freeway for 2 hours you make a "pit stop" to pee, only then do you realize you have a dead battery. Also wiring mods, like headlight relays, mess with a correct AMP Meter reading. I sourced the power for my headlight relays of the battery side of the starter solenoid. Turning ON the headlights draw amps through the SHUNT (same as if you were charging the battery) causing the needle to move to the CHARGE direction. So I turn ON the head lights, needle moves 5 amps in the charge direction. Then the ALT fails, I have a 5 amp load (IGN + misc stuff), needle then moves back to -5 amps, and doesn't include the headlight amp draw. Point is, I really don't think I AMP meter is worth trying to save. JIm #2

He will buy your cores. So it's really a freebie for you. Just mail all 3 to Rocket Man, assuming all 3 are usable, let him keep 2 cores and convert one for you. When I did it I mailed in 2 cores, just in case 1 wasn't usable. He gave me credit for the other core, so for me it was almost free. I also bought the orange needle paint from him and paint all the needles to match. Jim Here is a link to some testing I did about 10 years ago on the amp meter. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1122070-replace-amp-meter-with-dvm-update-with-photos-2.html#post11204855 This was before I knew about Rocket Man Voltmeter. He replaces the guts of the meter and does not reuse the stock meter movement. The nice part about his voltmeter is it only reads the voltage in the range you need, compared to a 0-20 volt scale. More info in the link below, encase you haven't read it yet. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1339746-how-to-swap-amp-meter-to-volt-meter.html Jim

He will buy your cores. So it's really a freebie for you. Just mail all 3 to Rocket Man, assuming all 3 are usable, let him keep 2 cores and convert one for you. When I did it I mailed in 2 cores, just in case 1 wasn't usable. He gave me credit for the other core, so for me it was almost free. I also bought the orange needle paint from him and paint all the needles to match. Jim