1986F150Six

How about this? https://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-Ford-F-150-Reg-Cab-Stepside/163439540195?hash=item260dc177e3:g:3iYAAOSwEKxcGaNF:rk:1:pf:0&vxp=mtr Gary said this: "The best place to find rust-free trucks in good shape appears to be the Pacific North West."

Hmmm... ram air cooling!

Do whatever the Physical Therapists say and then some more. 100% recovery is possible.

Yes sir. Funny how one faulty component can render a grown man useless...lol. I hurt it working under the truck back in the early summer, and it has never healed. Had a cortisone shot in it today, and more Physio starting tomorrow. Been there [2X]. Good luck!

Yes sir! I bought two of these Dorman kits... https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-46307-722-101.aspx It's great in the sense it comes with everything required (although I did upgrade the bolts). However, the bushing is too loose in the spring...and it's the old springs fault, not the bushing. Like Gary says, more peels from the onion...lol. The project is kind of at a standstill at the moment. The rear end of the truck is assembled waiting for me to transport it home, and I'm pretty useless currently as I've had some shoulder work this week. Rotator cuff?

Sorry! I thought, maybe, for Flareside tailgate.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-1980-1989-Ford-F-Series-E-Series-Ranger-Fuel-Tank-Selector-Valve/262191757636?epid=1211136115&hash=item3d0bd8b944:g:VDYAAOSwgjhWbycr:rk:1:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-OEM-1980-1989-Fuel-Tank-Selector-E3TZ-9189-C-Factory-Various-Models/123528253173?epid=1211136115&hash=item1cc2db8ef5:g:UCUAAOSwoVZcCGfl:rk:2:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/85-TRUCK-NOS-FORD-E5TZ-9942528-BD-PLATE-NAME-LUGGAGE-COMPARTMENT-DOOR/283306512381?hash=item41f6624ffd:g:HfwAAOSwMNxXV6JK

#20 is the standard "common" bushing with rubber and metal sleeve. I don't think the leafs are all that expensive for this thing. I'll check on them this week and let you guys know how it plays out;). Just another layer of the onion as Gary would say! Cory, I saw these and thought of your project. Is this like what you are working with? https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Genuine-OEM-Ford-EOTZ-5776-B-Spring-Shackle-7110N/302993187257?epid=1611168713&hash=item468bcd21b9:g:vvwAAOSwf-taqx1y Uh oh, this ad says it is for F250, F350 [same # as above]: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-GENUINE-OEM-REAR-SUSPENSION-SPRING-SHACKLE-BRACKET-FORD-F-250-F-350/233040489499?epid=1611168713&hash=item36424bac1b:g:nTcAAOSwd7FcDfk6 https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAND-NEW-OEM-Shackle-Bushing-Ford-EOTZ-5781-B-E-150-E-250-E-350-SD/254022093774?epid=1111139514&hash=item3b24e58bce:g:HowAAOSwfHVbRkQF

Doing a complete restoration? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ford-Factory-1980-1986-pickup-glove-box-door-hinge-EOTZ-1006050-A-new/254028058154?hash=item3b25408e2a:g:SZsAAOSwGZZbciEs:rk:25:pf:0

Hmmm... somehow, I am reminded of a story, maybe 3 years ago, where you and Janey went for a ride in Rusty and then Blue [formerly Big Blue] was ordered???

Yes, compare to used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-86-Ford-XLT-UNDER-HOOD-WORK-LIGHT-F100-F150-F250-F350-F450-Bronco-OEM/323463031410?hash=item4b4fe62a72:g:jxwAAOSwGsJbp-e0:rk:7:pf:0 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Under-hood-Trouble-light-1980-86-1986-Ford-Truck-F150-F250-F350-Bronco-82-85-86/163165411055?hash=item25fd6a96ef:g:I14AAOSwXDtbV0HI:rk:9:pf:0

E2TB-15550-AA Better hurry!!! https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1986-Ford-F150-F250-Truck-Bronco-Engine-Compartment-Lamp-Assembly-dp1/143049321011?epid=1823017238&hash=item214e676a33:g:xLIAAOSwsDZcES08:rk:30:pf:0

Next time I am in your area, let's look at the one behind the seat in my truck. It is black plastic and shaped to fit the space. Sometime, I will need to take it out and see if I can find some sort of identification.

He was a Ford engine development engineer. He worked extensively on the 302 engines [Mustang GT], but loves and races with the 300 engine. He has one of the few Ford experimental [prototype] cross flow heads.

On my son's 1984 and my 1986 F150s with 4.9L, the flywheel was already drilled for either the 10" or 11". I used LUK. The mounting bolts are a different size when going to the 11" clutch [not a big deal].

Welcome to the forum!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/80-86-Ford-Truck-or-Bronco-Driver-And-Passenger-Door-Map-Pockets-Red/173301837488?hash=item2859982eb0:g:t94AAOSwjvRa7J2B:rk:5:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1980-86-Ford-F150-F250-F350-Bronco-RED-XLT-Interior-DRIVER-PASSENGER-Door-Panels/253769851709?hash=item3b15dca33d:g:84gAAOSwuxhbh~y5:rk:3:pf:0

Welcome to the forum!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-F-250-F-350-Locking-Hub-Red-Dial-Ford-Dana-50-60-1-Ton-E1TZ-1K104-B/283300054521?epid=1722700033&hash=item41f5ffc5f9:g:MsEAAOSwySZb4MOb:rk:6:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1989-Ford-F100-F150-F250-F350-Fuel-Filler-Hose-w-Vent-Tube-E1TZ-9047-C/254021939001?hash=item3b24e32f39:g:7m0AAOSw~ydb3cfY

Yes.

The open and closed are interchangeable. To test a tach, using jump wires with alligator clips, I place the tachometer on the inner fender liner [hood open] and ground the "G" terminal for 6 cylinder and also ground the "8" terminal if a V8. Attach a wire to the "B" terminal and attach to a 12V source [battery + terminal]. Finally, attach a lead from the "C" terminal to the green wire on the coil negative post.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1981-Up-Ford-Truck-Speedometer-NOS-E1TZ-17255-B/392158161866?hash=item5b4e72abca:g:tWQAAOSwyEdb00G6