1986F150Six

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Ford-OEM-Heater-Control-HVAC-Cable-84-F-Series-Bronco/264613537580?epid=16036225449&hash=item3d9c32272c:g:M7MAAOSwY-NeLx25

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-1986-Ford-F150-Bronco-Rear-Wheel-Opening-Splash-Shield-OEM/202888083541?epid=520569481&hash=item2f3d127855:g:ew4AAOSwb39eLOsh

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ford-Truck-F-Series-Windshield-Washer-Tee-part-no-E3TZ-9A564-A/143513358455?epid=534144097&hash=item216a101077:g:zFUAAOSwqvxeLb-n

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-4spd-Shifter-Knob-Insert-E2TZ-7N280-D-F150-F250-F350-Bronco/193319030288?epid=1111227251&hash=item2d02b64e10:g:XacAAOSwCDxeBomV Better deal: https://www.ebay.com/itm/PACK-OF-2-GENUINE-FORD-4-SPEED-INSERT-PART-NUMBER-E2TZ-7N280-D/223863793667?epid=1111227251&hash=item341f526803:g:5DAAAOSwQvheJO0n

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-80-81-Ford-Truck-Bronco-Door-Latch-Assembly-E1TZ-1022169-C/333493499162?hash=item4da5c2f51a:g:XDkAAOSwilNeLKLf

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1980-1986-F150-Truck-Bed-Rail-Kit-1981-1982-1983-1984-1985-8-F350/143513734537?hash=item216a15cd89:g:fBwAAOSwgENeLhzQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-FORD-E0TZ-9273-A-OIL-GAUGE-1980-1981-1986-F100-F150-F250-F350-BRONCO/164050451638?hash=item26322b3cb6:g:TsoAAOSwkaNeLj3U

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Ford-Right-Door-Lock-Switch-Control-E0TZ-1022169-G-80-81-F100-F150-F250/274230849676?epid=1722164110&hash=item3fd96eb08c:g:-AgAAOSw92leLlD4

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-NOS-FORD-REAR-RAG-STEERING-JOINT-E0TZ-3A525-A/223879249699?epid=1028507306&hash=item34203e3f23:g:fwEAAOSwkAReLm5j

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1980-FORD-TRUCK-SPARE-TIRE-RETAINING-BRACKET-EOTZ-1405-B/392224729930?hash=item5b526a6b4a:g:aSMAAOSwVAtcTkT-

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Genuine-OEM-Ford-Heater-Air-Control-Cable-80-82-F-Series-Truck-Bronco/264613526050?epid=1611259247&hash=item3d9c31fa22:g:TGwAAOSwpJJeLxuG

Thank you!

Will do, Gary, but how would that explain the speedometer reading higher than normal, after the "jerk"?

Many years ago [2003?], my son's truck was converted from a 2.47 rear end to 3.55 gears. As one could expect, the speedometer was grossly incorrect. It measured way too high. The truck was taken to a speedometer shop. This shop calibrated and certified the police and Highway Patrol cruisers for the Atlanta, GA area. They installed an adapter [see attached link to a photo] and provided certification that the speedometer was accurate @ 55 mph. https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=EbFhkERR&id=5D1D6C169C588B569B3CC4CC04C656BAC5D12018&thid=OIP.EbFhkERR7MtKktBO7R8_6QHaE6&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2fstevemckelvie.files.wordpress.com%2f2011%2f08%2fodometer-correction-box.jpg&exph=531&expw=800&q=cable+speedometer+calibration+box&simid=607991193303188113&selectedIndex=4&ajaxhist=0 This device has worked well for ~17 years. Recently, the speedometer jerks to a higher speed and then drops back. However, now the "drop back" speed is too high. I am in hope that some of the "old dogs" [Gary, Bill Vose, ???] will have a idea of where to search for this piece of history. It will be this weekend before I can crawl under the truck and see if there are any identifying numbers or marks. Thanks.

Also marketed by Sears and Roebuck: https://oppositelock.kinja.com/when-sears-sold-cars-the-strange-tale-of-the-kaiser-he-474351403

The block which came with EFI exhaust manifolds [1987+] did come with am additional 3 bolts. This was to help on the assembly line as there now was 3 pieces [intake manifold and 2 [3 into 1] exhaust manifolds and the intake and exhaust manifolds are no longer joined together. The three extra bolts are not necessary. It has been recommended to fabricate am "L" shaped piece which is drilled and captured with the rear most lower bolt on each manifold. This prevents the exhaust manifolds from creeping downward. Others have done the installation [upgrade] without the extra pieces and have not had any problems.

Haha...well, right now my stable only has one stall... If I could get away with it, I'd have a whole yard full of Bullnoses...and probably a few Flaresides;). I'd paint and decal it like the red XLS in the 1982 Brochure... The fact that it would be an actual XLS model wouldn't mean much to most people, but it would to me. Follow your dream!

And, progress is good!!!

Add it to you stable?

Thanks, Jonathan!

And you can still buy all new stuff too, right? Ford Duraspark module (Ford modules still available for cheap) DSII harness (Doesn't Painless wiring offer this?) Distributor and coil. Rob, I have chosen to keep mine mostly stock, but have deleted the feedback ignition and carburetion system. My quest has been for fuel efficiency. I am going to attach a link to a report of my truck. Perhaps it will give you some ideas. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1325963-gas-mileage-recipe-4-9l-300-a.html

Very slick! And, look closely at the covered dash pad.

Ummm… love that XLS dash trim and horn bar!

You will be working with a great engine! It is a truck engine, so will deliver its power [torque] at a low RPM range. Consider the EFI exhaust manifolds [factory]. They will be less expensive than headers, will not tend to rust out and will not have the under hood heat problems associated with headers. The open "C" type intake offers more flexibility regarding carburetor [2 or 4 barrel] and orientation. The HEI distributor is easy to wire up [requires a relay], but the Ford Duraspark distributor [1983 and back] does an excellent job. That is what I have. This will get the conversation started!