Gary Lewis

Yipes! Well, it looks like you have time right now. Hope the weather holds.

This one?

I guess so. I saw the pics of his father's truck, but I assumed that happened over a decade or more. Man, to have that happen over night is scary!

That's a good testimonial. And the computer systems from back then were solid. You just have to understand how they work and keep on top of the problems.

Looks like you are getting it apart. And I'd sure replace the seals. I don't see that I pointed you to the section from the factory shop manual on this. You may have already found it, but just in case: Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Front Axles tab and then the Instructions tab.

Welcome! Glad you joined. You said "in my area", but what is that? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd be happy to add you if I knew the city and state. And, I picked-up on your pun. Good one. Last, I like your sig, but would you mind placing your name there as well? We like calling people by their given name as it makes it feel so much more personal, but I can't remember what I had for breakfast much less everyone's name, so that would help.

Angelo - It takes a LOT of time-consuming work to clean those factory castings up. Been there, done that. And the improvements are hard to quantify. Good luck and let us see what you do.

Jim - How long have you had those parts and tools laid out? I'd have thought that much rust wouldn't happen over night? Seriously though, that is AWFUL! Man, that's gonna be a LOT of work! I sure don't envy you. Good luck. As for the spacer, it is hiding an overly-large hole. I just happened to have that piece of channel laying around so thought I'd use it for the mock-up. But I hadn't thought of using wing nuts. I'll see what I have. Thanks.

Sounds like an interesting series. But we've not seen it nor read the book.

You win! Or, maybe lose? Man, that's awful! What's the plan, Stan?

I made three battery cables today. I used 2 gauge for the ground to the block and from there to the frame, and 4 gauge from the battery to the fender. And the positive cable is #2 as well, but I made it a few days ago. Here are the components I used. Here's the 16-ton crimping tool: And here are the cables. The positive cable goes to the power distribution box you can see to one side of the 175 amp mega fuse. The #2 starter cable comes off of there. The little ground is the #4 and it goes to the ground stud on the fender. The #2 goes down to the block and from there to the frame.

Thanks, Frank. And I agree that the Quick Cable products are good. I just want something that sorta matches from one side to the other, and don't think I can do that with their stuff. Here's a rough draft of what I'm talking about. The pic on the left shows where I'll mill the channel, and the one on the right shows it sitting on the battery. Thoughts?

Yes, you beat me to it. The solution eats the bearings up. And yes, it costs money to rebuild an engine. Anyway, glad the guides are good and that you have the seals.

Valve covers look good! So I included them here. As for the transmission, you don't have a signature so I don't know for sure which one you have. But if I remember correctly the AOD says Metric on the pan. If so, the whole shop manual section on rebuilding that transmission is on the page at: Documentation/Driveline/Transmissions/Automatic Transmissions/AOD. Scroll down to Page 21 and you will see the extension housing seal, aka output shaft seal, and how to replace it. But I doubt the local parts stores would have it, although they can probably get it. I'd go to the Rock Auto site and drill down in their catalog. I'll bet they have it and you won't have to go into a store. Stay safe!

Headlight relays make a BIG difference, and brighter is better on them. But you may be right - that marker might be a tad too bright.

The hot tank will destroy the cam bearings. And on the heads, you should consider new seals at least. And see if the valves rock in the guides. If so, they are worn.

Yes, welcome! Glad you joined. What part of SC? I ask because we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and I'd add you if I had a city. Jim is right, the gauges are electrical. But there are two versions - those with idiot lights for the oil pressure and ammeter, and those with true gauges. Which do you have?

Dave - I missed this. I'd bet that caused the heart to pump! I'd think it is time to change out that relay. But that's a good find on the tranny cover. It is amazing how well those things can hide!

Well done!

That Quick Cable hold down would work on the main battery. But not on the aux battery. I think I'll try to make something that looks similar for both sides, although the aux will be angled, as you said. I'd thought about flipping it as you suggested. But I think I like the dual ribs going across, tying the two ends together. I'm going to play with the mill a bit tomorrow and see what I come up with. But thanks!

Good news! It is frequently something like this in the end, but while you are in the middle of it that's hard to understand. If you have an option I'd consider having him supply the parts. It may cost more, but he will get parts that work together.

Purdy! Thanks, David. Ok, I have a question for y'all so I'll start with it and progress to the other. Here's the mocked-up battery hold down, along with a lot of other work which we shall get to in due course. What do you think of the look? (I'm sure it'll be strong enough and it clears the hood as well, albeit just.) I'm thinking of three options, but in all cases the ends will be neatly radiused and it'll be PC'd black: I think they are presented in increasingly attractive order, and the latter would look purpose-built whereas the thing now just looks like a chunk of channel that someone put under there. But I'd like your opinions. As for the other things, the first one can be seen in the pic above - I swapped the battery around. And the second thing is also visible - a ground stud. It is straight behind the PDB on the fender just under the lip, and has the new 4 ga ground that comes off the battery going to it awa the previously existing grounds from the harness and from the PDB. It is a stainless 1/4-20 stud with nuts with toothed lock washers either side. The last thing can also be seen in the above pic, sorta. But it is the new 2 ga ground cable that goes to the engine. And then from the engine there's another 2 ga ground going to the frame, but you can't see that in the pic. So here's a pic of both of them before installation and then in captivity:

You were right, it was a good price.

Jim - Glad you caught those brakes when you did. And you've laid out a lot of work. Good luck to you. Are you going to report here or start a thread? Brian - Sorry I called you Dee. Anyway, note how far onto the flywheel the ring gear is before you start. Mine wasn't fully back against the ridge.

I think Cory has answered the question. And I don't have any of those parts. But thought I'd use my new cross-reference to determine what is shown on the part. You've already done that on the dip stick/indicator, but I'll fill it out. Indicator Oil Level: E3TZ 6750L #E3TE-CA or E3TE 6750-CA (sometimes they put the whole ID# on) Tube Assembly: E2TZ 6754-A E2TE 6784-AA (I'm going to have to check that, but that's what it says) Bracket (Oil Ind Tube): E0TZ 6786-A (Earlier and not in the book I scanned yesterday.) I didn't help much.