Gary Lewis

Thanks, Dane. Jim - I think Robert's a distant friend, and certainly not an uncle. Anyway, thought about welding it up and cutting a new slot, but decided I didn't want to go that way. There were some other things I wanted to correct as well, so started over. This way I have what I wanted and a spare if someone else needs it. I really wish I could weld aluminum. I have some good aluminum stock and could have made a much nicer piece. But this one will suffice, and if I draw it up with dimensions someone else could duplicate it fairly easily. However, I do need to check that it works with other carbs as well. I know it'll fit the back of my Street Demon, but I didn't check how it fits the Street Demon's linkage. And I need to check a Holley as well.

Yes, stop in if you are down this way. Email me through the forum and I'll see it pretty quickly. And Jim is right, I come from a railroad family. Father and brother were engineers on the Santa Fe, now BNSF. And I worked for them 18 months while in college as a brakeman. Speaking of Jim, he's coined the term Flareside Owner's Group, aka FOG. Carl Sandburg said "The fog comes on little cat feet", but around here it is coming on lots of rubber tires. Quickly! Didn't know how many Flaresides there were out there until recently. Wow!

You are on the map. And, you are close enough that normally I'd invite you to the show in Sept, but it is unlikely that it will be in-person this year. However, if so then we'll do it virtually and now that you are a member you can join.

I ask because I'm not placing the speed control bracket in the same position relative to the throttle bracket as the factory does. Here are the differences: But, it really appears to work. It will pull the throttle to where the secondaries are ready to open and not go farther, but that is just because it runs out of travel. And since I have the required amount of slack in it, which is 1/16 to 1/8", there's nothing more to be done. Here it is mocked up: And here's a comparison of mine vs the factory bracket, where you can see the difference in the speed control brackets: Well, apparently I stumped the chumps, as Click & Clack would have said. So I assumed that no response means you agree and proceeded on with my plans. However, I had noticed that in a previous pic the throttle cable was bent tightly and coming to the throttle linkage at an angle. You can see it here: With a bit of testing I found that the throttle cable needed to go inboard at least 1/4" on the bracket, which would relieve the bend a bit and bring the cable directly to the carb's throttle. So I decided to make a new bracket. That took most of the day, but I did get it done and then positioned the speed control bracket and got it where I wanted it. Here is a pic of the bracket from the back on the carb on the bench showing that the linkages go directly to the carb's linkage. And in this pic I've tacked the brackets together. And here's a shot from the side showing that they line up that way as well. And here are a couple of pics of the tacked-up bracket by itself. Tomorrow I may get to finish the welding and then, one of these days, I'll blast and powder-coat it.

It has rained the last three mornings and then it gets up into the high 90's in the afternoon. And right now it feels like a sauna outside. The humidity is awful! And I need to mow.

Still out there Ron?>.. I dragged home some more backyard Bullnose junk today. This time an old 1980 4x4 Flareside. For now I'll say that it's a parts truck instead of a project truck...but it came with enough good Bullnose stuff (and Flareside stuff) I grabbed it so that it could even be a donor for another non-Bullnose or Non-Flareside that could be converted. Cory! You are on a roll! Lots of parts. You are going to have to set up a list of parts to sell on here - some place.

Welcome! Glad you joined. Mt Vernon. Want to be on our map? You can see it at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu. That's a nice looking truck, and I'm sure you already know that you have an earlier grille - besides a Cleveland that didn't come in a truck except in Australia. But, the grille looks great! In fact, it is my favorite. Anyway, welcome and I look forward to your questions.

Yes, CCW to remove the crank bolt. As for the timing chain, the factory shop manual says a max of 1/2" slop in the chain. Last, we are under and excessive heat warning, I guess you know?

Rangers had the (in chronological order) C3, C5, A4LD, 4R44E (4R55E for 4.0 V6), and 5R44E (5R55E for 4.0 V6). This one should have the 5R44E. 4-Speed, Rear wheel drive, 44o (or 55o) torque rating, Electronic control 5-speed, Rear wheel drive, 44o (or 55o) torque rating, Electronic control Thanks for the decoder ring, Shaun.

Prayer works! Glad it did in your case. But, I think all of those bolts go into the block, as shown below. And if I was that far into it I'd sure want to replace the gasket behind the cover. And, while there, check out the timing chain.

Cool! So, what tranny does it have? I lost track of them after the E4OD.

I assume you mean for the stock F-Series as well as the Bronco tanks, right? The kits for the 38 gallon tank provide ways to modify the stock sending unit to fit the deeper tank.

Good one! 👍

Is that the "2003 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 V6/M5OD/8.8"? I thought an Edge was a car, not a truck. Tell us about it, and your plans?

I'm happy it is FIXED! And, while thanks are appreciated, we are here to help others and get help for ourselves. We are all in this together.

Totally Stainless has packages for many engines, so maybe yours?

Glad you got it going. On the temp gauge, I've often wondered if having one sender in the block and one after the thermostat would let you watch the thermostat open. It sounds like you put the aftermarket sender in the thermostat housing, which is the way I'd suggest doing it as the factory gauge is very slow to react. But the aftermarket one is probably fast enough that you can see the change as the gauge opens. I'd be curious to know if that's the case. As for the volt meter, do you have it tied in all the time? I'd be worried that it would pull the battery down when the engine isn't running. Have you checked the current draw of it? And pulling the bed makes getting to the sender a lot easier. But that in and of itself isn't always easy as the bolts don't like to come out. However, if you can get them out that would be the way to do it.

Our kids used to live in Nashville. In fact, they just sold their house there and packed up the last of their stuff and left yesterday. While they lived there we visited many times, so got the feel of the place and did realize that there are "locals" that have never been anywhere else. But there are also many transplants there as well who've come in from other places and have traveled. As for Charleston, we visited there a couple of years ago and thoroughly enjoyed it. And we are very likely to be back, maybe around Christmas as our other kids live in Florida and Charleston would be a reasonable place to meet.

Shaun - Can't wait to see what you've gotten. Angelo - If so, then I'd go with an open spacer.

Yes, give us the wire colors. Or, better yet, you may be able to figure it out. Go to Documentation/Electrical/Standard Wire & Color Codes. That document gives the color codes and circuits Ford used. Download the one that has been OCR'd and search for the wire colors, making sure to use the proper abbreviations shown at the first of the document.

Now you will have to come down to my neck of the woods. Yep, we will surely be down there, and driving as we do not want to fly. It is a shame as it is cheaper all the way around to fly. Less fuel cost, fewer hotels, fewer meals. But I don't want to sit in a metal tube for hours with others that might have the virus.

Shaun - My SiL and I've both said we will never rent from U-Haul again. And he plans to do whatever he can to make them pay for this debacle. But I'm not sure what he can do. We shall see. As for Blue, Janey's already asked me that. The answer is no. They made it to a stopping point tonight and will finish up the trip with a 3 hour drive tomorrow - hopefully incident free. And my stomach is better. Angelo - I don't know about spacers. But if 1" will give the hood clearance then that sounds good. And if the intake has four holes I'd match it. Just my thinking.

Gary, try Andrew’s suggestion and get the feel of a stall under controlled conditions... however I wouldn’t be overly worried about it if you are not hauling heavy. In my ‘81 it is somewhat worse than stalling with vacuum brakes but not that much worse. With the low speed involved in back country maneuvering I don’t expect it will be an issue. I'll give it a try. Soon, I hope.

Yes, there is an accumulator. The FSM says: But I think your suggestion is a good one and I'll give it a try.

Even if the switching valve is working now you have to think about the future. They are almost unobtainable and are quite expensive if I remember correctly. So, if you put money into two tanks and the valve fails..... All of this is why I'm going with the later fuel delivery modules, which don't take switching valves. However, the sending units are completely different so you'll have to either swap they out for the Bullnose ones, or do what I'm doing and go with a piece of electronics to convert them to the Bullnose gauge. And you also have to run a pressure regulator since these are EFI pumps with way too much pressure for the carb. But a return style regulator is a good fit to replace the hot fuel handling system. And, I'm going to run a 38 gallon rear tank and a 19 gallon mid-ship tank. After all, it is a 460 so maybe I can pass at least one station?