Gary Lewis

In '85 there was a Midnight Blue Metallic (3L), a Wimbledon White (9A), & a Silver Metallic (1E). I've included a page from the 1985 Truck Facts Book that shows the color combinations and what tape stripes they'd have and the interior colors they'd come with. Maybe you should show us some pictures to help us understand where each color is and what tape stripes you have - if any. And what about a pic of the certification label? And the interior color?

Disregard the above. Yours in an '85. Back soon...

I've put a page from the 1986 F-Series brochure from the library (Documentation/Library) below, and it agrees with my 1986 Color & Trim Selections book - there wasn't a Midnight Blue Metallic. The dark blue was Dark Shadow Blue Metallic, which was code 7B. And there was also a Medium Silver Metallic (1G). But no Wimbledon White. Instead the white was Colonial White (9M). If your truck has Deluxe Two-Tone paint & blue interior, which limits the colors, then the options that include 7B were: 1G7B, which is Silver on top & bottom and Blue in the middle 9M7B, which is White on top and bottom & Blue in the middle. What #'s does your certification label have?

Well, yesterday wasn't quite as bad as I thought. I got to wondering how much larger the lead for the LED is vs the nut since the lock washer goes over it easily. Turns out it was only .010" larger, so it threaded itself on fairly easily, as shown below. So that let me mount in the bezel and then mount the bezel on the dash, and then secure the meter in the bezel - in that order. (You can't get to the screws to mount the bezel on the dash with the gauge secured in the bezel.) And then I hooked the LED up to my test battery for the shot below. The new timer module is supposed to be delivered later today, so maybe tomorrow afternoon or Tuesday I'll get to that part of the project. I have to cut holes in the box for the wires to go through, then glue the module in the box, wire it up, and install it.

Welcome back! (I'd say "Kotter" but the youngsters on here don't know about Gabe.) Sorry for your loss. Been there so I know how much pain and sorry that is. As for the idea of building in Florida, while I don't think you are I'm afraid you'll run into a whole lot of them while building. Good luck! On the 351M, I saw recently where Tim Meyer now has nice pistons for them. So you can get decent compression out of them. However, I'd still consider slipping a 400 crank in your block. The only difference is the pistons, and that 1/2" of extra stroke helps a bunch with torque.

I'm sure you'll get it tuned nicely, Mat.

First, since the number is on the part it is not the part number. Yes, that's true. Go see our page at Documentation/How To Decode Ford Part Numbers for an explanation. However, you got close. Your EOTB can't be right as the 2nd digit of the prefix has to be a number not an alpha so that's E0TB. But 13B757 is the right "group number" for SHIELD ASSY. (INSTRUMENT PANEL LIGHT). And ID# E0TB 13B757-AB cross references to PN E0TZ 13B757-A, which was used from 1980 through at least 1989 on all F & U-series vehicles. So the latter is what a Ford parts man would need to order one. But those that don't truly speak Ford might list the part for sale using the ID#. Having said all of that, I'd just put the parts back together with JB Weld. And if you are worried about heat just use an LED.

What process and materials are you using to "dye" it? I ask because I've had good luck with SEM products. And we have the SEM PN's listed on our page at Documentation/Specifications/Interior Paint as well as a recommended place from which to order it. Having said that, I find the SEM instructions, which you can find on that page on the Instructions tab, to be quite confusing, especially when you compare the instructions on the can to another can or even those for that can online. So the tab called Gary's Thoughts compares the instructions from online to those on the Plastic Adhesion Promoter can, and then adds how I do it. Plus, for no extra charge, there's a tab called SEM Numbering & Products where I list the products I have and how the numbering system works.

I think you are in the minority as the vote currently is 15 to move and 0 not to, although if you vote it'll be 15:1. You may not be using some of the features that are broken. For instance the ability to email or send private messages between members. This doesn't usually work, and if it does it looks like it didn't. Or the joining process that requires an admin to administer, and even then we don't have a way to require the newbie to accept the guidelines. Plus there's the process to post pictures that frequently requires us to explain it to the newbie. On top of that the host, Franklin, has asked people to find a new home for their forums, and I suspect he will shut his server down at some point. Given that, I believe it is imperative that we find a new forum platform and migrate to it. And that is where the sticking point currently is - migration, moving what we have here to a new platform in order to keep all the info we've accumulated. We are in the process of evaluating various packages and at this point have tried four: phpBB; MyBB; Discourse; & InVision. I need to write up what we think we've found, but we thought we wanted to go with InVision and then learned that the migration cost is steep. Several have said they'll help defray that cost, but we don't want to make that decision until we have all the facts, and we are still working on that.

Dave - I farmed my A/C work out for that very reason. I got tired of chasing it. Hope you can find the leak and fix it, but... And good catch on the tie rods. Sure glad they had cotter keys, but now I'll bet the steering is even better. Mat - Always those little tuning things, and when you think you are "there" the weather changes.

Let us know how it works for you, please.

22" is very good vacuum at idle. But I think there's something wrong if you are getting exhaust gas into the intake at idle. I'm pretty sure that you are only supposed to get exhaust gas when under partial load, meaning cruise but not idle nor WOT. However, if you aren't getting pinging then your distributor may be set up for a non-EGR system, although that would be surprising. Still, if it is running when w/o EGR then I'd leave EGR off.

Well, it is time for an update and to quit for the day 'cause two steps forward and three backwards ain't progress. Here's what I did: Plus 1: First, I drilled the holes in the AFR meter's bezel for the LED and the switch. That went well and I got the switch mounted, as you can see below. Minus 1: Then I decided I'd see if there was a way to wire the LED to make it brighter than what the 4 ma it gets through the "remote" arrangement I wired up by removing the LED from the board and soldering wires to the board. Not only did I not find a better way I blew up one of the three LEDs I bought. Minus 1: But since the LED is in the relay's coil circuit it has to be there, I decided to just put an LED on those remote wires and leave it in the box I mount the module in and wire the LED on the panel such that it uses the starter relay's coil as ground.. Got an LED all soldered up and decided I ought to put hot-melt on the board to ensure the wires don't come off, after which the module wouldn't work. So a new one arrives tomorrow. Plus 1: Then I revised the schematic and that let me figure out how to wire the LED on the panel without another connector. Minus 1: So, why not wire up the new LED with the ballast resistor in the circuit? Better make sure it'll go through the hole in the bezel. It did, including the heat-shrink tubing but when I tried to get the nut off the LED it won't go over the resistor.

Looks good!

The way I'm looking at the master parts catalog there are two different 8.8" locking axles 1983-86 and 1987 & later. If you look at the page at Documentation/Driveline/Axles & Differentials and then the Rear Axles & Differentials tab followed by the Applications Listing tab you'll see that the 8.8" came out in 1983. And that all 8.8" applications with a locking diff use Parts List #238. Then if you go to PL #238 you'll find "4026 Differential assy, (locking)": E3TZ 4026-A Use with axle #WFL-A,B,B1,C,C1,D,E,F,H,365A,365B,805A,807A,809P-1983/86 E7TZ 4026-C Use with axle #805D,807D,809S,813P,815D,817P,835A,837A,845A,847A— 1987/ That's all I know.

Amen, brother!

Hadn't seen that, but I have now and understand - I think.

You are now on the map. But what is a TechnoViking?

Look at Jim's post here for the info on the new pumps: https://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Saginaw-Conversion-for-82-400-tp140983p141020.html

The F-Series & Broncos only came with the C-II. The Saginaw pumps came on the E-Series. And yes, you have to get the right brackets and probably hoses to go that way. But there is an outfit making a C-II with Saginaw internals. Not cheap, but it is quiet. Otherwise, you can replace your pump and expect to get a different tone, but not silence.

Yep, the C-II pump is notoriously noisy. Like the geared Mopar starter, you can hear a Ford truck coming a block away. (One of the benefits of a Saginaw pump.) Anyway, glad you got it bled. That can be a pain, but when you get it done you'll quickly forget it.

Welcome, EJ! Glad you joined. Nice truck! (I'd say "cute truck" but I got in trouble saying that as someone seemed to think I was poking fun at the Flaresides. Nope, they are just smaller than the one I'm used to, Big Blue. But I won't say that any more. ) What are your plans for it? And where in NC? I ask because we have a map, which you can see at Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu, and we can add you with a city or zip.

You have air in the system, which is why the fluid is frothy. You need to put the front end on stands, start the engine, and turn the steering full lock left/right/left/right etc until the noise is gone. But stop and add fluid from time to time, waiting until the bubbles go out of it. Make SURE you start the engine before turning the steering wheel. That C-II pump will spray fluid through the itty bitty vent hole all over the engine compartment if you don't have the engine running.

Yes, that should work nicely.

Yes, we are happy to see posts on other vehicles. I had a thread on my boat, and Bill has his Chizzler.