Gary Lewis

Good news! We have plenty time to discuss about the right model to buy. That’s in my «to avoid» list, but if not complicated, I can go there. Interesting point. I am wondering about some discussions I read about the V-Belt capability to turn a higher amperage alternator, without slipping. It isn’t foo complicated. You can do it. As for the v-belt, they are good for 90 - 100A if you have enough wrap around the pulley. So a 90A alternator might be good for you. But the squeal at startup may be a concern and, if so, you might want to go with a Load Response Control regulator. There are different ramp rates, but a common one goes to full charge in 2.5 seconds. That smooths the startup such that belt squeal is not usually a problem. To swap a regulator you pull 4 screws, take the old one out, lay the new one in, and add the screws.

Lol! I was posting Bill and Jim while you were subscribing here! With the right alternator you shouldn't have to clock it. And the only things you'll have to mod are to make a slight bend in the mounting arm and tap the hole Jim was talking about. Oh yeah, replace the serpentine pulley with your existing v-belt pulley.

Not sure where those three screws are. As for the noise, it is when the shaft in the steering column is pushed up through the new bearing. So it is the outer diameter of the lower shaft rubbing on the inner race of the bearing. I'm confident that a squirt of lube would stop the noise - for a while. It doesn't have anything to do with the Borgeson shaft as it isn't touching the bearing until the shaft stops when the Borgeson hits the bearing. But the noise happens before those two hit, so it has to be the inner shaft rubbing on the ID of the inner race of the bearing. But the shaft is slightly too small for the inner race so there's a bit of a clunk there. I'm going to make the shaft just the right size for the bearing to slip on with a bit of help so there's no clunk. And that will probably mean there will be no movement there, so no noise.

Subscribed. And don't miss Bill's post here and Jim's post immediately thereafter.

You are understanding correctly. Turn the key to Run and press the button to start the timer, the relay closes, and then turn the key to Start. But the voltage goes away and the timer resets and the relay opens. However with enough capacitance the voltage stays up. I tried two 1000 mfd capacitors in parallel and that combo worked the majority of the time. One of them works maybe 2/3 of the time. So it would take a bit more than that to make sure it works every time. I think it is time to drop back to a simple DPST switch with the LED on one side and the clutch switch on the other. It'll work every time & won't light the LED when the clutch goes in every time, which is annoying - especially at night. As said, I won't get to that for a bit as I have other things going on, but right now that seems to be the best plan. (You were right. )

Oy? If I remember right Mick said that at the end of 19th Nervous Breakdown. Man, that takes me BACK! Not only to the 60's but the two years we spent in the UK. Oy! Anyway, yes you need to clean off the rust. Get down to bare metal and use a flux brazing rod or a brazing rod dipped in flux. It'll flow nicely on the bare steel and fill that hole. Plus you can easily file it back smooth.

Interesting! Good find, Jeff. So the issue is with Chrome, not InVision.

Jeff - This is bizarre! Here's what I see:As for Youtube Shorts, you can post it this way, but replace the link characters with the code Youtube gives you, but then change their "shorts" to "embed".

Is this what you were thinking? I could turn the key to Start and then hit the red button. That'll pull the relay in and the starter will run as long as I hold the key in Start. (I won't need to hold it long as it starts almost immediately, although maybe not if you've killed it by lugging. Dunno as that doesn't happen.) I'd be able to immediately put my hand back on the wheel as I wouldn't have to hold the button. In fact I can easily hold the wheel with my left knee as I don't need to use it on the clutch. And maybe that is the best solution. Hard to do accidentally but it should work reliably. Yes, it would be fairly easy to put a diode and capacitor in the power feed to what I have now. But I don't particularly like the red LED coming on each time I push the clutch in. So if I went with the switch arrangement the only time the LED would come on is when you leave the switch in bypass & the key is in Run or Start. I have time to think about this as Janey has a doctor's appointment tomorrow that will take most of the day. And I want to solve the noise in the steering column. Plus there's a leak in the power steering. Last, the grandtwins arrive on Wednesday week and we may want to drive Big Blue so I don't want him to be apart.

I'd guess you have two separate problems. The tail light issue may be a ground problem as an LED takes a lot less current and might be able to light with a poor ground while an incandescent might not. The headlight problem is maybe a loose connection. You can see that the power feed on Page 17 and then Page 66 on the 85 EVTM here.

Jeff - The number of attachments is adjustable and I just upped it from 3 to 5. So it isn't a problem with phpBB but the way we have it set up.

Thanks, Jeff. But I'm not having any luck posting a file. I've tried three times an it will not show inline. It just shows as a downloadable file, as you can see here. Can you post another file? And maybe download my file and see if you can post it as well?

My confusion is probably because of that inner/outer shaft. If they slipped over each other easily then pulling up on the steering wheel wouldn't cause the other one to move - unless the friction of them sliding is greater than the friction between the lower shaft and the lower bearing. Which I'm guessing is the case. So if I were to put a shim between the Borgeson and the lower bearing the steering wheel may still come up the same amount, but the movement will be between the inner and outer shaft. I think I'll do that as a test as I think a paint scraper may be about the right thickness, and then I'll know. But the clearance between the lower shaft and the lower bearing has increased since I put all of that together because now I have a clunk when I pull & push up/down on the shaft.

I'm a bit confused about this as well. But you can see where I worked on this part of the truck starting in this post. There are actually two shafts inside the steering column, the one the steering wheel attaches to and the one that the lower shaft attaches to. Those two slide inside/outside each other to provide the collapsing part of the column. I pulled the lower one out when I installed the new lower bearing as it wouldn't go over the distorted lower end of the shaft. I had to put that shaft in the lathe and take out the distortion that was in it, as you can see in that post. But now there is some slop in the shaft/bearing and it clunks there - as well as moves up and down as shown in the video. So I'm going to have to pull the Borgeson shaft, new lower bearing, and lower shaft out and figure out why there is slop. I have another lower shaft and may wind up using it. Or weld this one up and turn it back to just fit the bearing. As you can see in the picture below, one of the allen bolts on the Borgeson goes through a hole in that shaft, so there's not much way to move the Borgeson up to ride against the inner race on the lower bearing. So I'm wondering about creating a shim so there's no up/down movement on the shaft. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/thinking-26_orig.jpg

Not bad at all. That's the one I have and it works nicely.

On the outside, yes, that DOES look like splatter. And they tried to weld despite the rust? [insert face plant emoji here]🤬 I wanted to keep it because of the Ford stamping. Was going to go back to blue (it was repainted black), and outline the letters in silver. But, I’d rather do this right. I would have brazed it. In fact I have brazed valve covers. So if you can clean off the spatter and rust you could braze the hole shut and know it won't leak.

It looks like someone tried to weld it up. There seems to be welding spatter on it near the hole. Right? And the hole goes through where the gasket goes, so in theory shouldn't leak. But something has been leaking, and probably though that hole? My first thought was to replace the valve cover, but on second thought how could it leak through that hole since the gasket will be there?

Worked perfectly. I didn't use the BBCodes. Just dropped the Youtube link in. In fact, why do we need BBCodes? Where are they used? I'm going to play with that a bit...

Thanks! And yes, that's the one Jeff found and the one I read up on. I'll go give it a try. By the way, I've changed the phpBB joining process to require the joiner to confirm he has control of the email address he is registering. That was turned off as account activation was set to "immediate". Hope that's ok.

The options below are in the General tab of the ACP and then the Board Configurations/User Registration Settings section. In Account Activation the options are: No activation (immediate access) Disable registration By user (email verification) By admin So we could require them to confirm that they have access to the email, and we probably should do that so I've made that change. But we could also set the New Member Post Limit to 1, which might then allow us to force the New Member to post in the NMSH folder. Setting that up is described in this thread. However, I've not figured out how to do that. On top of that, I don't see how the new user would know s/he can only post there, so this could cause some problems unless we have the ability to edit the information they are given during registration.

Jeff - I've read and explored and finally found how to add extensions: 1. Download an extension from phpBB’s extensions database 2. Unzip the extension and upload it to the ext/ directory of your phpBB board 3. Enable the extension, here in the Extensions manager I can do the first step and half of the 2nd one, but don't know where to upload as that is on Chris' server. So I'm going to leave that to him. But you are right, it does Youtube but not videos from your phone w/o using Youtube. However, my attempt to do that on InVision this morning wasn't successful, so please recreate it so we know it is still working.

I don't know that the Saginaw is that much better in normal usage than the C-II. But it won't spew ATF if you turn the wheel when the engine is off, and doesn't growl like a C-II. So those new designs are well worth consideration.

Are you saying there might be a problem with the nut holding the steering wheel? My father would have said "I resemble that." There might be something to that theory. However, I think I see the problem. I'm wondering if I can move the Borgeson up to touch the inner race of the lower bearing, thereby eliminating the slop. And also lube that spot to ensure there's no noise if there is movement.

It appears that I was right, the power is dropping between Run & Start and the relay is dropping out. I proved that theory by breaking into the power feed and installing a diode and a 1000 mfd capacitor in the circuit. The diode isolates the capacitor so it is only powering the module and not everything that is on in the cab, and the capacitor provides power between Run & Start - if you don't dawdle. I'm a stubborn man, but now I'm seriously considering replacing the pushbutton with a DPST switch. One side will bypass the clutch switch and the other side will light the LED to warn that the switch is thrown.

The slots on the front of the bumper are certainly slotted, as you can see in the pic below of Dad's frame, and it looks like the bolts may have slipped. So I'll need to put the truck up on the lift, put the safety stand under the bumper, loosen the bolts, lift the bumper up, and then retighten the bolts. Thanks for the suggestion, Bob. But right now I need to do some work on testing the new forum platforms.