Gary Lewis

Stein - Glad your weather is warming so that you can get work done on your trucks. But that does seem like a lot of work. On the tapping noise, might it be a lifter? Or an exhaust leak? Lots of times an exhaust leak sounds like a tapping noise.

Yes, that would work - assuming the voltage is the problem. But I should know that when I arm the system in Start as that is the worst-case test. Will try that later this morn. Thanks.

Bill - Did you send me that file some time ago?

I understand that approach: Prioritize, prioritize, prioritize.

That being the case I'll bet they are still there, which explains the blueish tinge. Your bulbs put out a very cool white light given the 5K temp, so the filters may still be there. From my testing, HIPO cool white LEDs with blue filters on the left, and the same LEDs w/o the filters on the right - with the same camera settings:

And this from our in-development 3G page:

Here's a pic from this RJM page:

From the factory there were blue snap-in filters that made the gauges look bluish. Apparently those have already been removed.

Looking good! Did you leave the blue filters in?

What all are you doing? And what size cab do you have? Your signature doesn't say. I used 1 1/2 cans to do a large 90's console from a Bronco inside and out. And earlier I used 3 cans to do two door panels, the regular cab corner trim, and trim that goes along the headliner and windshield. But you'll also need the prep stuff. Have you read the instructions on our page at Documentation/Specifications/Interior Paint?

I think you got the hole filled and smoothed off nicely.

So far none of the links are dead. I just downloaded INDUCTION BLUES: HOW DOES IT ALL WORK? It explains how MAF works.

I'll check that the engine will crank if I arm the system in Start. It should. But I'm out and about and may not get to check it today.

Yes, I'm powering Vcc for the relay module, and using a diode to isolate it from the rest of the truck's electronics. But if I put the LED ahead of the diode it'll cut the load in half.

Oh, and Jeff will want to see this one: 3G Alternator Voltage Regulator Replacement

Haven't found the bit on how much power a v-belt pulley can handle, but have found these: RJM Injection Tech home page as of April 3rd, 2007 RJM Injection Tech home page as of Sept 6, 2011 RJM Tech Library as of Feb 10th, 2007 RJM 3G Install as of Oct 15, 2007 Wayback Machine options for RJM Injection Tech so you can pick other dates We might want to figure out how to actually clone that so it doesn't go away.

I'm pretty sure it is the drop in power that does it, not the relay itself. I say that because you can see the LED come on when you push the "arm" button when in Run, and then go out as you go to Start. And because w/o a 1000 mfd capacitor it works ~1/3 of the time. With a 1000 mfd cap it works ~2/3 of the time. With two 1000 mfd caps in parallel it works almost all of the time. I've ordered 3300 mfd caps and will test with one of them when they come in. But I could make it work even longer if I were to run the LED off the power ahead of the diode so the cap only has to supply the module. That would only take running one more power wire into the box, so if I break into the box to add the diode so the LED doesn't come on with the clutch switch being closed I'll add that as well.

Thanks, Vivek. But you don't owe me anything. We had a fun trip and even got to eat at Reba's Place on the way back. Mat - Yes, the telescoping is the safety feature. And my Borgeson telescopes as well. I'm not going to remove any of that, but just stop the movement inside that lower bearing, which is making that noise.

Yes, I'm using "Ignition" power, in theory because it would be hot in both Run & Start. But it isn't during the transition. And I'd thought about powering the module at all times, but there's already enough electronics in the truck that I keep it on a charger when in the shop. (I think it is the camera system, mainly, which has a cutoff voltage 'cause it knows it'll pull the system down over time.) So I'm reluctant to add to it. And it is no fun wiring up under the dash in order to change power sources. The way I have power to the module wired with 1/4" male/female connectors, it would be easy to insert a diode/cap combo in the middle w/o even getting into the box, which requires pulling the horse collar trim piece below the column, which requires loosening the instrument bezel, which requires removing the headlight and wiper knobs. But to put the diode in, which I really like by the way, I do have to pull all of that. So the easiest approach is to make up the diode/cap circuit and add it 'tween the two 1/4" connectors, then pull the stuff off to add the diode - if the diode/cap combo fixes it. I see some 3300 mfd caps on Amazon so think I'll order a set of them in and make up the circuit with jumpers. If that works well enough I'll make it quasi permanent and then put the diode in the clutch switch circuit. Might as well since I'm close to having the elegant solution working well.

I'll think about that over my 2nd cup. First cup is almost gone and I'm headed to the kitchen for more.

I've found it before, but looked for it recently and didn't find it. I'll have a look again after a bit.

Jeff - I don't think the nut on the screw is hitting, but I'll check. I think parallax is the issue as the camera was farther back and makes it look like it hits. But my eye was more straight down and it didn't look to hit. Still, I'll check. Vivek - My Borgeson doesn't have damping, but there is one that does. However, the noise happens when the lower shaft in the column slides up/down through the lower bearing, not when the shaft moves quickly in rotation, which is what the damping prevents. So I don't think this has anything to do with the Borgeson. It appears to have everything to do with the lower shaft in the column. Your earlier pic shows the pieces in the interface between the upper and lower shaft that prevent vibration there, and that's surely why when I pull up on the steering wheel the two shafts move together rather than just the upper shaft sliding in the lower shaft. But if the lower shaft was a tight fit in the bearing then the movement would be between the two shafts. And/or if the Borgeson was up against the inner race of the bearing it couldn't move. So I plan to pull the Borgeson and the lower shaft out and re-work the shaft so there's a tight fit with the bearing. That'll both take the axial movement out, eliminating the chuckle, but also take out the side/side movement that is making a clunk. As for the possibility of it having worn, the shaft isn't completely straight so when I turned it on the lathe the results weren't perfect. By that I mean it was tight here, loose there, etc. And apparently it is loose where it is currently meeting the bearing. So my re-work will require either a different shaft, which I have, or building this one up by welding so I can turn it back smooth and straight.

Not that I'm trying to avoid being right , and I'm a little rusty reading automotive schematics. But if you put a diode in the wire between the "top" side of the clutch switch and the "COM" terminal on the junction block I'm thinking that would still allow the signal from the ignition switch to go through (when the timer relay is closed) but would not allow the LED to ground through the clutch switch and starter relay. So would that avoid the annoying LED shining when you hit the clutch? Or am I rustier than I thought? Bob - You are right about the diode allowing the module's relay to bring in the starter relay but keep the LED from coming on when the clutch is depressed. But it would allow the LED to come on when the module's relay was pulled in. Well done! That might just be enough positive for me to keep the module and add the capacitor. I can get 3300 mfd capacitors easily, and that might be just enough to keep power on the relay through the Run/Start gap. Thanks! That opens up new possibilities.

Nice! We had the same truck but in Grabber Blue. And we drove it to Lake Havasu City. Dane - it is in your back yard!

IIRC Ryan's video, they get to abt 107A before it starts to slip (and this is 'normal' tension/deflection) The real advantage of the 3G is it's ability to make power at far lower rpm that 1 or 2G units. Your rememberer is better than mine.